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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hows it goin everybody, new to the site and im excited to see how much help everyone is on here, so heres my problem

i just purchased a 1998 slk 230, the top went down just fine, drove for a few hours, then when i got home and tried to put the top up, the roof came up and latched but the trunk wouldnt close.. it just stayed in the up position... so i pushed the switch to open and it retracted inside the trunk all the way no problem... when i got home and tried it again the same thing happened... top goes up but the trunk will not close... and now it wont do anything... the motor does not run, no pump actuation noise or anything

so now here i am, convertible top is up and latched, the trunk is up backwards, all the windows are down, and nothing is working at all... i can start the car with the parking brake on, and try the interior switch (which is lit up red, but not flashing) and it doesnt do anything...i took the plastic liner out from the inside of the trunk and there arent any leaks, the fuses in the trunk are fine (and i have the microswitch for the "roll cover" taped close as well so the computer reads that its in its proper position)since i had to disconnect from the plastic cover to get it out

besides this, is there a way i can manually close the trunk and get the top secured so i can move the car, i dont want to hurt anything on the car and have heard about manually close procedure but i dont have an owners manual to the car, any and all help will be greatly appreciated..:bowdown:
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
k heres the update, i found online where u can bleed the pressure on the system with an allen key... did that and now the top is secured and the trunk is closed (and will open the conventional way as well) but the rear windows are still down and the top still does nothing... i have been researching all day but can find the answer to my question.. so first off is there any way i can get the rear side windows back up so i can at least drive it... id like to figure out why the top isnt working but my priority now is just getting those windows up so i can drive it tomorrow
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
so how do u recommend i fix this... as of right now i took the plastic sides out of the trunk and didnt find any leaks or cut wires, the fliud level in the compressor is fine too... and i closed the switch that senses if the roll up cover is closed as well since i took that stuff out to inspect everything (the motor wasnt running before i removed the plastic just fyi)

so are there any fuses or relays that i can try first since the motor does nothing at all,,, and if thats not the case i figure i could test the switch in the trunk first then the ones located bu the rearview mirror and so on and soforth... just trace all the switches till i find the on that is faulty

but im not sure how to test the switches.. any help on this would be greatly appreciated... ill send a chocolate chip cookie to the person that leads me in the right direction :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
just talked to a mercedes guy and he told me the only way to know was to take it to the dealership and get them to hook it up to the computer and it will tell me which sensor is switched... lookin like some big bucks :(
 

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98 red 230 slk
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Start with the rear trunk sensor 1st. Put the screw back in on the hydralic pump and see what happens when you try to lower using the top switch. Fast blinking only, probably your trunk switch is out. Solid light, no blink, no pump sound, probably means your hydra pump is shot or fuse is blown. Or your low on hyda fluid.
 

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2010 C200 CGI /W203/SLK230/W202/230E/280SE
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you may have overworked your 40 amp fuse under the bonnet/hood - check 23 or 24 (LH side facing engine near brake fluid canister - explanatory card in lid)

Oberoi
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
sorry to sound like an idiot but i cannot find the fuse... in the fuse box (the one by the brake boster on the drivers side) they are numberedbut they skip 19-29... it goes from fuse 18 (spare) to 30 (heated seat) sorry if im pullin a rainman on this but ive looked everywhere
 

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2010 C200 CGI /W203/SLK230/W202/230E/280SE
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It's no 25 - 3rd one down on the right - Hydraulic unit - should be orange 40amp (mine are painted white because at one time I was changing fuses every day - lube problem)

Bruce
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
wow thank u for goin through all that trouble... mine is a 1998 and the diagram is different (and the fuse box) but i checked all the fuses and everything checked out just fine... even the 40 amps at the top...

while i was at it i checked the rear switch with my ohm meter and it closed the circuit just like it should... do i need to check that with all the microswitches or am i just wasting my time
 

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Now: S320 - 1999 Earlier: 190E - 1985, 250TD - 1990, C180 - 1994, C180 Touring - 1998, SLK200 - 1997
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Hi! I´m new here as well! But just a tip! at mine 97 mod, the ABS sensor was faulty.
i took the roof down, went for a ride, when I got back home the roof didn´t respond at all. Took it to my local dealer, and they used 5 houres to check everything, but couldn´t find anything wrong. The last thing they checked was a ABS sensor, and that fixed it ;-)

Maybe that is your problem as well :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
did it show an abs light when this happened, but i got the codes checked and nothing about an abs malfunction came up... this was at autozone too though so i might take it by a shop tomorrow, ive done just about all i can do on my own.. also checked the headliner switches as well and they are both good
 

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Now: S320 - 1999 Earlier: 190E - 1985, 250TD - 1990, C180 - 1994, C180 Touring - 1998, SLK200 - 1997
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didn´t show any abs malfunction.
 
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