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Discussion Starter #1
I just bought a '78 240D in pretty good shape. However, the drivers door has to be SLAMMED to close right. It will appear to lock with just a slight pull, but then it rattles and still is open about a 1/2 inch. To get it to close it has to be slammed hard.

I spent several hours trying to figure this out and i just cant tell. It seems as if it hangs a tiny bit lower then the passenger door but i was unable to adjust it up. And regardless the conical pin fits into the whole with no effort.

Any ideas of what is wrong and what i can do?

Thanks!
 

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W-1-2-3 Go!
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Hello and welcome!

Check your door check straps. They might need replacement. I cannot elaborate further because I'm not knowledgeable on this topic but this is as far as I can help you with.

The doors should be able to hold at two angles, the first is closer to the door opening/car and the other is wide-open. If they don't then the check straps are in need of replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
karugs - 4/9/2005 2:53 AM

Check your door check straps. They might need replacement. I cannot elaborate further because I'm not knowledgeable on this topic but this is as far as I can help you with.
I appreciate the input, but i'm the door holds open ok. Is getting it "completely" shut that's the problem. Could the check straps affecting the complete closing of the door? I'd be more then hapy to replace if needed.

Thanks again!
 

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1983 240D auto..soon to run a generator in the country.1984 300D turbo 4 spd
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Assuming many years wear at any hinge point, support the open door, loosen the hinge bolts, try to raise the outside corner and retighten the bolts. Not the alignment of the top with the rear driver's side door and the alignment with the post between front and rear doors. I changed all 4 doors on my 24oD recently. Try to note any change in the alignment to compensate.Also noe worn rubber molding. Lastly the alignment of the ( don't remember the correct terms) pin in the door to the "accepter" rubber in the post.
Luck
 

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280SE 280CE 560SEL
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Adjust the static part that the door lock hits when you close the door (I have forgotten the name for it - the 'striker'?). You need a hex key, it has four bolts - loosen, move the striker towards you, tighten and close the door. It may take a few attempts.

If this is not the problem, then most likely your door has sagged on its hinges. Again, these are adustable and involve loosening the bolts, moving the dorr, and retightening. But try the 'striker' adjustment first.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks, I'll try the "striker" today. I'll have to find the tool necessary to adjust it.

The first thing I tried was to loosen the door where it mounts on the car side (upper and lower). I marked where it was and then tried to raise the door. This didn't work because it appears the door was as high as it would go. I didn't try loosening the door side mounting. I might get a little there.

But first I'll try the striker. Thanks!

-Thomas

I must say i love the 240D. A little scary pulling into traffic but other then that its great!
 

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If the striker adjustment doesn't work, try the opposite end on the door itself. There's a "pin" that goes into the striker. That part might need adjustment too.

Actually my left rear door is like this, I just slam it harder. Maybe it's about time to check on it [:D]
 

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Discussion Starter #8
karugs - 4/9/2005 3:23 PM
If the striker adjustment doesn't work, try the opposite end on the door itself. There's a "pin" that goes into the striker. That part might need adjustment too.
[:D]
Thanks. I haven't gone to get the tool yet, but i tried the other side (with the pin and latch) too. It has two screws from the outside that were loose. I lossened more and tried to move it, when it didn't budge i just left it be and retightened the two screws. Is there another way to move this? Maybe i should pull the door panel?

thanks.
-t
 

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I don't have my Haynes manual with me right now, if you can borrow one or if somebody can read the part about adjusting that "pin" it's all there. You can actually go visit an auto parts store (Autozone, Pepboys, Kragen, Advanced Auto, etc) and find an open manual for the diesel W123 and read on it. Worked for me one time when I couldn't find my Haynes. [:D]

Yes there are two screws if I remember right and it's hard to access...
 

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84 300TD, 2005 CDI, 2006 CLS55
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Here's the problem: hard to close door. Here's the door mechanism explanation: The door hits a striker on the car which consists of 5 parts- 1) the striker frame which is the exterior metal part you see. It is smooth on top and the forward side, and has a rectangular cut-out on the bottom 2) the shims which fit between the frame and the pillar. 3) the 4 allen headed bolts which hold the striker to the pillar. 4) the black rubber inside the frame- it has a metal female end inside it, but is one piece. It can only be removed by first removing the allen bolts. 5) The latch striker which sits on the bottom of the rubber, inside the frame- it could be either yellow (and then it's a plastic part found in models up to about 83) or black (in which case it's a rubber like substance found in later models). This part is what causes your latch to trip and closes the door completely.
A good latch striker will slightly protrude towards the door and cover the bottom of the frame.
Take a look at the doors you have that do close nicely- they should have an intact latch striker, or at least a partially intact LS. If your LS is missing, you'll have a retangular cut-out on the bottom of the rubber, and most likely your door does not close properly. The earlier yellow plastic LS's crumble with age and use after about 20 years it seems. If you find a good LS in the yards or on another car, YOU MUST REMOVE THE STRIKER from the pillar in order to remove the black rubber, which is nessesary to remove the LS intact.
If your door closes but not completely- 99% of the time it's due to the latch striker being broken or missing. BTW I'm not sure of correct technical terms for these parts, so I described them as best I could.
 

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Thanks, that seems logical if I understood it correctly. Here's an image of my door B pillar, I couldn't find any good pics of my latch that "trips" when you close the door. I'm posting this pic so in case anybody wants to edit it and make a small diagram, go ahead [:p]...
 

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That's a good pic Karugs- you can see your black LS sticking out of the black rubber like a Rolling Stones tongue- hanging over the striker frame. It also sticks out a bit on the bottom where the rectangular cutout is- above that little piece is a male knob which hold the LS inside the black rubber- if you try to remove the LS you'll most likely destroy it unless you take the whole door striker off the pillar. To solve a bad closing door either replace the whole striker or just the LS.
 

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If yo want some latch strikers- let me know. I just went to the yards today and pulled four good black ones.
 
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