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Hard time inserting key in driver door...help

2K views 31 replies 10 participants last post by  Teutone 
#1 ·
1988 560SEL
I HAVE 3 keys and all do the same. It won't insert all the way unless I wiggle it around. Sometimes takes me a good 15 seconds of fiddling. Other door and trunk and ignition no problems. Does it need grease?
 
#3 ·
I tried to fix that with penetrating oil, assume it removed the dirt. Driver side worked fine for awhile but then froze. At same time passenger side had already gone. Got a good deal on a complete set of front doors and trunk, but w/o the key. that will be the next step.
 
#4 ·
I have the same situation with my driver's door lock, and the lube only lasted awhile-- it must need a new tumbler now. There are videos on how to remove the sedan handle assembly, and I think Mclare had a past thread in how to take out a coupe assembly which is more finicky (but those photos no longer show up last time I checked). I guess after 30 years, this is normal. Does your ignition tumbler work ok? You may want to consider getting all three changed at the same time at this point.
 
#8 ·
Does your ignition tumbler work ok? You may want to consider getting all three changed at the same time at this point.

Ignition is working fine now, but this has me thinking it may be good preventive to change also. Already have new (used) front doors and trunk. For them, need to get a key. Looks like I am going to be stuck with two keys no matter what I do.
 
#10 · (Edited)
I recommend @MBL87560SEC method! Get the Mercedes lock grease and let it do its job.
Never use WD40 or something else, it washes out the stain and dirt in the lock and makes the single moving parts more shaky. As a result, the small parts get caught even faster and the decay of the lock is accelerated
 
#12 ·
recommend @MBL87560SEC method! Get the Mercedes lock grease and lte it do its job.
Never use WD40 or something else, it washes out the stain and dirt in the lock and makes the single moving parts more shaky. As a result, the small parts get caught even faster and the decay of the lock is accelerated
If it sounds too easy, it is. What Roland describes appears to be exactly what I did to my locks (this was before my mechanic came back). Also, I bought new front door handles and trunk set with locks. I think I jumped the gun when I apparently could just have replaced the lock cylinders (?), even if VIN defined are NLA. My bad.
 
#11 ·
I will try the MB grease...I don't have problems turning the key in the door. I have problem inserting the key. Without it inserted all the way in I can't turn. I have to wiggle it around and it eventually goes all the way in. It goes in about 75% of the way but stops. I do not use excessive force but just light wiggling.
 
#13 ·
The tumblers are brass. There is a rectangular hole in it that the key passes through. The hole where it contacts the cut side of the key wears and the tumbler sits too high in the cylinder to unlock it. The key shouldn't wear enough to matter.

If you file on them, make sure you get all the grit out after.
 
#15 ·
You may not need to perform a lot of 'heavy lifting' here at all.
A 002 989 06 51 for $15 - $20 and maybe 5 minutes of your time...
Lubricate first, then observe the lock action.

As others have noted, if there is a lot of wear, lubrication won't really do the job.
If worn excessively, at least you'll know where you are at, you know?

MBL

Material property Label
 
#16 ·
Hopefully this thread will serve as good information on the reasons why the MB service schedule includes lubricating many things, locks included. For those of us who may be able to sort their locks before the wear sets in.
So many problems on the forum could have been avoided if the proper maintenance was done.
(Not directing this at anyone in particular, we've all been guilty of this at some point I'm sure.)
 
#19 ·
Today I remembered I have Dri-lube from Remington. I did 2 short sprits of this stuff and the key slides in and out like butter. I'm guessing it loosened something up. Who knows maybe previous owner had this problem and used WD40 or grease to F it up more in the long run. I know some might say I shouldn't have done it but better to just try and see what happens. At least the other door and trunk can open and lock the doors. If it makes it worse I guess I have to take it apart and I'd just clean it all off again anyways.
 
#20 · (Edited)
Here is a CAUTIONARY TALE. I thought I was doing the right thing, but this is what happens when you let a doofus fool around too much (see my previous posts above). My passenger side door lock was completely shot, key turns with no resistance. Instead of getting it fixed, I procrastinated, since it worked from driver side. Then the driver side got so it needed real fiddling to work and I still procrastinated. Then I listened to someone who said use penetrating oil, and I did. AND IT WORKED...for about two months. Then it froze completely one night. I figure all the goop inside was finally washed out. Roland was right (post 10 above). and i never got a chance to file the tumblers. Using trunk key did nothing although it should have opened others. but the driver door lock was closed permanently and I guess that froze the other. The police got it open with their slim jim but it broke the plastic insert funnel (about a dime in diameter and maybe 3/4 inch long) that guides a latch rod in the right direction.

So, now I have a new set of door handles and trunk lock from the same car, but no keys. Trunk lock is not yet on and we are going to use it to see if we can figure out how to make a set of keys. My questions are:
1. any suggestions on figuring out what keys I need?
2. Can that plastic part be found anywhere? or manufactured? (I have a used latch but also lacking the plastic)
3. Used driver front door lock actuators are hard to find (next time I'll ask the police to open the rear door with their slim jim)

Any comments/suggestions gratefully received.
 
#22 · (Edited)
thanks gogi. did that when everything worked to get extra keys. I guess I did not explain clearly. the passenger door lock cylinder was dead. the driver side door lock is now dead and to unlock door the cops used a slim jim which also broke the door latch/lock assembly. So I replaced the two door handles and also have the trunk assembly. My plan is to get a driver side latch assembly where I can, use the trunk assembly to get keys and then reconnect vacuum system and change trunk assembly. But, how do I get the keys. Locksmith, check tumblers?

Oh wait, two hours later from above. You mean take out the lock cylinders and then take them and the original key to a locksmith and ask him to reset tumblers?
 
#26 ·
What the locksmith will do is likely quite similar to the first suggested lock cylinder fix in Plinker's post #5.
With the cylinder removed, I watched a locksmith adapt a lock to the original key by inserting the key followed by filing the tumblers down flush.

Btw, I originally got the SEC with 2 original and 1 valet key. They only worked in the passenger door and ignition. They must have been worn, because 2 new keys ordered with VIN # via the dealer work in all locks.
 
#25 ·
Drew & others here.

Take a breath before jumping through the worst-case scenario solution outlined above.

Do obtain some MB Lock Grease first & apply.

See what happens, don't you think? 15-20 seconds of your time to address...... max.
If you need to do some 'heavy lifting' here you'll know soon enough.

MBL
 
#27 ·
Thanks Teutone and Gogi. I now have a plan. Just found and bought a driver side new MB door latch on ebay, next comes the locksmith. this thread can go back to original question.
 
#28 · (Edited)
Btw, I originally got the SEC with 2 original and 1 valet key. They only worked in the passenger door and ignition. They must have been worn, because 2 new keys ordered with VIN # via the dealer work in all locks.
[/QUOTE]

I think what you had were two working keys for the ignition and front doors, and one valet key for the trunk that also worked with everythng. With the VIN number you got two keys that fit everything. I heard that MB no longer provides keys via the VIN number, but a locksmith can make copies, which is good if the locks work.

Oops, goofed again. doofus got the upper hand. Valet key us oval shaped and does not work the trunk. square shape key opens everything. theory was that valuables which MB owners are reputed to have in excessive numbers were to be put in trunk when dining out and oval shaped key given to sneaky valets. enough
 
#29 ·
Btw, I originally got the SEC with 2 original and 1 valet key. They only worked in the passenger door and ignition. They must have been worn, because 2 new keys ordered with VIN # via the dealer work in all locks.
I think what you had were two working keys for the ignition and front doors, and one valet key for the trunk that also worked with everythng. With the VIN number you got two keys that fit everything. I heard that MB no longer provides keys via the VIN number, but a locksmith can make copies, which is good if the locks work.

Oops, goofed again. doofus got the upper hand. Valet key us oval shaped and does not work the trunk. square shape key opens everything. theory was that valuables which MB owners are reputed to have in excessive numbers were to be put in trunk when dining out and oval shaped key given to sneaky valets. enough
[/QUOTE]

It would surprise me if the dealer no longer takes orders for keys. I would call the dealer. Where did you hear this?


At this point changing the locks would make sense. In an ideal world you would order all new locking cylinders for doors, trunk, and ignition, with an extra key for a total of 2 new keys. But it will cost $.

The locking set you got from the wrecker would be easier to re key if you had at least one matching key and for adapting / matching the locksmith had a new un worn key via dealer and your proof of ownership = pink slip copy. Btw all Mercedes Benz USA keys etc come from Fort Worth TX. A competent locksmith can mach these to your original key, but preferably not a worn key.
Btw, if or when you pull the locking cylinder from housing, make sure not to lose / drop any tumbler bits.
It might be a good idea to have some large zip lock bags handy.

I was in a somewhat similar situation when a mechanic who worked on my SEC took off with one of my business vans and .a set of my SEC keys. At the wrecking yard, it took some time, but we managed to find a Coupe with 1 key and removed the complete set of locks incl ignition, and installed in my coupe..
I removed the cars build plaque from the cross member over radiator and kept it in an envelope with the yards receipt. Some time later we lost that key as well / I was left with no key.
I told the guys at dealer about the thief having the key for my original locks, and with my pink slip, the other SEC's build plaque and wrecker receipt, the dealer ordered 2 keys for the wrecked cars lock set and changed the info in MB Fort Worth data base, should I need additional keys in future.
For this to work you need a friendly guy at the dealer, and the build plaque of a car the does no longer exist with DMV etc.

I don't think there is a cheap and simple solution, unless you have experience with these locks yourself.
I found a post of someone resurrecting a completely frozen and even partially broken BMW 2002 lock
Repairing and Re-Keying Sticky Door Locks or search youtube
Best of luck
 
#30 ·
Thanks for the instructive link, Teutone. It sounds like sanding down the tumblers flush is a stopgap solution, as the article mentioned it's more likely to allow other keys to operate it.

I guess the conservative, graduated approach with this is:
1. Try MB lock grease
2. Order new VIN-matched keys
3. remove, repair/replace tumbler

For the SEC handle, I wonder if the key not wanting to go in anymore and then getting stuck is a result of the white plastic shaft breaking and causing stress on the tumbler, akin to what the article talked about the metal connecting shaft getting warped over time and then causing the lever to not line up flush? Or, the keys could be worn out (even thought they work seemingly well in the passenger's door, trunk, ignition, glove box etc.
 
#31 ·
Wont make one once of difference who you take the keys to -new key or or old if the tumblers are worn. They wear over time. Some of these locks and keys can be up to 30 years old or more . Only way is file work to level the tummblers up this will in turn allow them to turn in the barrel .I know i did this 6 years ago .The price of new are out of this world ,and the same with second hand lock sets ..Some may only need a good clean out of the 30 years of dirt build up . And then use dry graphite powder to lubricate the lock barrel and tummbler after .
 
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