[Digmenow]

I have only been to Harbor Freight a couple of times but after seeing the recommendations here for the electric impact wrench for removing the steering wheel nut, I got a copy of their ad to make the shopping a bit easier. Too much to look at in the store while the ad can be perused at leisure.

I didn't put the hard top on this winter because I knew that if a nice day happened in January or February, I'd be stuck with no one to help me get it off. I had been contemplating building some sort of free standing unit to lift the top since I remain garageless but the storage problem remained a nagging problem.

I happened across this in the Harbor Freight ad. I could buy the hard top harness from Performance Products and attach it to the crane. I think it would solve the lifting and storage needs, even after I get the garage built. Also, it's on sale right now for $99 US.

I figure it would roll up behind the car between the rear wheels. Lift the top a few inches, pull it back and lower it onto the cradle (came with the car).
Anyone see any problems?


Enter 93840 in the "Find It by Item Number" box.

Harbor Freight USA

1 TON FOLDABLE SHOP CRANE

Delivers the lifting ability you need with the advantage of compact storage. Includes ram, chain and hook.

* Boom extends from 36-1/4" to 50-1/4"
* Crane height adjusts from 82" to 94"
* Clevis grab hook with safety latch
* Double ball bearing swivel casters

Maximum working capacity: 1 ton; Boom extension capacities: 1 ton @ 36-1/4", 3/4 ton @ 45-1/2", 1/2 ton @ 50-1/4", 1/4 ton @ 50-1/4"; Height capacities: 1 ton @ 82", 1/4 ton @ 94"; Ram capacity: 3 ton; Weight: 166 lbs

 

[Digmenow]

Uh oh. I just did the math in my head.
50 1/4" = 4 feet 2 1/4.
My big freaking USDOT bumpers.

Or...I could just lift from the side!

 

[ussun]

Just looking at how much steel is used to make the lift it looks to me like a free bee. If I was to make that thing the steel bill would be over $99.00 by far. Get the dam thing and adapt it after the fact. At that price you could get 2. Honest it a steal.

 

[dugald]

Dig, you could sell tickets for the raising and lowering ceremonies.
Why not just ignore the hardtop altogether? It's just a PITA anyway.

 

[BenzToy]

Dig, you could sell tickets for the raising and lowering ceremonies.

I'd buy a ticket. I picture a monkey f**king a football.

 

[roncallo]

Here a crane that will clear your US bumpers. The beauty of this one is that you could store it at your neighbors house and lift your top off without ever having to clutter up your own garage. Then when you have the top up in the air you could just swing around and place the top in another neighbors house. It keeps the garage real clean. I'm sure your neighbor would ask you to put fuel in it once in a while.

 

[HalNineThousand]

You know, Dig, there is a way to have almost the same thing for under $25. I've posted about it several times in response to questions. I have a hoist I made for under $25. While I use a joist in my garage, if that doesn't work for you, you can fasten it to a tree or something. Here's the link:

Hal Blog » Blog Archive » Removing the top on a Mercedes 380SL with a $25 Hoist

I've found I can get the top off or on within 10 minutes with this.

 

[dugald]

While I use a joist in my garage, if that doesn't work for you, you can fasten it to a tree or something.

There you go, Dig.
Can't afford a garage?
Plant a tree.

 

[nobby]

Listen, Sport, just do what I did.

Loosen everything up, shift the car in reverse mode...and reverse 50 feet at top speed . Upon attaining the 50 foot mark, use the shift lever yet again to place the car in forward mode.
At this time, depress the accelerator pedal with great force thus attaining a good forward jerk.
The hard top should gently slide off the rear of the car. If you are worried it might get damaged, have your Mother in Law on stand by to help ease it to the ground.

Then, with MiL's help, place on stand....but be careful not to scratch it.

 

[HalNineThousand]

There you go, Dig.
Can't afford a garage?
Plant a tree.

Or two As and a cross piece done with 5 4x4s could do it.

 

[smack]

From the side

I'm not sure how high the bottom brace is, but you could run it in from the side. Nothing says you have to put the crane in from the rear.

 

[ChiefRider]

I don't recall if you use the SL year round, but if possible, leave it off. Mine came off when I got it home, and it'll probably never go back on.

Chief

 

[Digmenow]

Where do I begin?

Let's take it from the top...

@ ussun. I agree. I have imagined building my own out of threaded plumbing pipes, PVC and other assorted materials. I doubt I could do it that cheaply no matter what I tried.

@ dugald. I like the looks with the top on and it makes it more comfortable in the winter.

@ BenzToy. Burble. Squat.

@ John. Why did you swap such a small engine into your 107? Surely there's a Unimog or something out there willing to give up its powerplant to satisfy your lust for the largest of anything available.

@ Hal. I just cut all the tree branches back to make way for the garage (someday).

@ nobby. 1. She's in Texas. 2. How do I put it back on?

@ Rick.

Uh oh. I just did the math in my head.
50 1/4" = 4 feet 2 1/4.
My big freaking USDOT bumpers.

Or...I could just lift from the side!

@ Chief. See "@ dugald."

 

[roncallo]

@ John. Why did you swap such a small engine into your 107? Surely there's a Unimog or something out there willing to give up its powerplant to satisfy your lust for the largest of anything available.

I did the numbers and it just wouldn't fit. It wouldn't fit from the back the front, the left or right sides or the top or bottom. Plus I couldn't find big enough springs to support the weight.

 

[ScottinSoCal]

Dig, don't do it. That's a big, heavy piece of hardware with a huge amount of inertia. You will scratch the shit out of your car one day when it gets away from you, and maybe dent it, too. I just don't think it's a good idea.

 

[isthisdave]

Dig, don't do it. That's a big, heavy piece of hardware with a huge amount of inertia. You will scratch the shit out of your car one day when it gets away from you, and maybe dent it, too. I just don't think it's a good idea.

As much as it grieves to agree, Scott's probably right.

Unless you were in some way able to pad the hoist areas that were in danger of touching the car....and in addition I'd suggest chocking the hoist wheels EVERY time you rolled it up to the side of the car......

 

[roncallo]

I have only been to Harbor Freight a couple of times but after seeing the recommendations here for the electric impact wrench for removing the steering wheel nut, I got a copy of their ad to make the shopping a bit easier. Too much to look at in the store while the ad can be perused at leisure.

I didn't put the hard top on this winter because I knew that if a nice day happened in January or February, I'd be stuck with no one to help me get it off. I had been contemplating building some sort of free standing unit to lift the top since I remain garageless but the storage problem remained a nagging problem.

I happened across this in the Harbor Freight ad. I could buy the hard top harness from Performance Products and attach it to the crane. I think it would solve the lifting and storage needs, even after I get the garage built. Also, it's on sale right now for $99 US.

I figure it would roll up behind the car between the rear wheels. Lift the top a few inches, pull it back and lower it onto the cradle (came with the car).
Anyone see any problems?


Enter 93840 in the "Find It by Item Number" box.

Harbor Freight USA

1 TON FOLDABLE SHOP CRANE

Delivers the lifting ability you need with the advantage of compact storage. Includes ram, chain and hook.

* Boom extends from 36-1/4" to 50-1/4"
* Crane height adjusts from 82" to 94"
* Clevis grab hook with safety latch
* Double ball bearing swivel casters

Maximum working capacity: 1 ton; Boom extension capacities: 1 ton @ 36-1/4", 3/4 ton @ 45-1/2", 1/2 ton @ 50-1/4", 1/4 ton @ 50-1/4"; Height capacities: 1 ton @ 82", 1/4 ton @ 94"; Ram capacity: 3 ton; Weight: 166 lbs

On a more serious note I think it will do just fine. But I don't own one of these because they take up too much space in the garage for something I don't use every day. I borrow this one when I need it.

 

[Digmenow]

OK... Questions for everyone.

@ John. How high off the ground is the red 107 in the picture? Is is jacked up well above normal height or is it close to its normal height? If it is normal, then the project is out the window because even from the side, the boom will bash the hardtop trying to get to the center point of the top.

@ Scott. Since my 'someday' garage will be of the aluminum and vinyl pole barn variety, I don't think there will be enough strength to support the top ala Hal's hoist system. I will need some type of portable unit to handle the removal and installation and then be stored away when not needed.

I like Dave's padding idea and the chocks also make sense. Remember, this would be used on flat, level, smooth concrete.

The only other issue that I see is clearance for the legs and wheels under the car chassis. They look pretty tall.

I may have to simply construct Hal's double A crossbar as an easy assemble/disassemble stationary unit and drive the car out from under or back under as needed.

 

[ScottinSoCal]

@ Scott. Since my 'someday' garage will be of the aluminum and vinyl pole barn variety, I don't think there will be enough strength to support the top ala Hal's hoist system.

Even if your garage is aluminum and vinyl poles, you can still create a center beam that will support the weight of the hard top. It only weighs 100 lbs. - two 2x4 nailed and glued together would hold that. A couple of joists down the side and a minor framework to give it lateral stability and you're set. It doesn't have to be structural - just something that will snug up next to the wall and ceiling and will support 100 lbs. If you really want to go insane and be able to swing from it, use 2x6s instead of 2x4s.

 

[HalNineThousand]

Dig, if you go with an aluminum pole supported barn, then you could still do the A-frame idea I suggested. Make what looks like a swing set, but put it on wheels you can lock. Move it in place, drive under it, pull the top up, drive away, and the car is safe. That bypasses the inertia and scratching issue the lift you were looking at would cause. Then use the frame to move the top to where you want to place it and store it, then store the frame somewhere else -- it can even be at the front of the garage so your front end is in it when parked.