Handbrake Parts
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Get ready. They're mighty proud of it. And it only comes as an assembly, no parts breakdown I could find. A number close to $300 US comes to mind the last time I thought about buying one. Luckily someone from this list was kind enough to offer a used one.
Remember, when engaging the hand brake, don't just yank up on the lever. The best way to take care of the mechanism is to depress the button while the lever is down, then lift the lever while holding the button, and when there's a sufficient level of tension to hold the vehicle, then release the button and let the lever down until the ratchet engages.
If a need arises to park on a hill, do your best to park facing downward so that the self-actuating nature of the rear shoes helps increase your braking force. It makes a BIG difference in the ammount of cable tension that's required to hold the vehicle.
All the best,
-Dave G.
Remember, when engaging the hand brake, don't just yank up on the lever. The best way to take care of the mechanism is to depress the button while the lever is down, then lift the lever while holding the button, and when there's a sufficient level of tension to hold the vehicle, then release the button and let the lever down until the ratchet engages.
If a need arises to park on a hill, do your best to park facing downward so that the self-actuating nature of the rear shoes helps increase your braking force. It makes a BIG difference in the ammount of cable tension that's required to hold the vehicle.
All the best,
-Dave G.
My EPC is showing A 462 420 00 84 for the parking brake on the MB web parts page it shows as 241.41 Euros in Germany http://wwwsg.daimlerchrysler.com/Projects/wi/cda/etpl?ETNR=a4624200084&from=query&etpl_lang=01
Might be cheaper to source a secondhand part.
I can recomend the DVD version of the EPC that acome up on ebay from time to time as they have all MB models and allow reverse part number to model lookup which cd version cant do. And it runs without the cd in the drive.
Might be cheaper to source a secondhand part.
I can recomend the DVD version of the EPC that acome up on ebay from time to time as they have all MB models and allow reverse part number to model lookup which cd version cant do. And it runs without the cd in the drive.
Hipine - 4/5/2006 10:38 PM
Remember, when engaging the hand brake, don't just yank up on the lever. The best way to take care of the mechanism is to depress the button while the lever is down, then lift the lever while holding the button, and when there's a sufficient level of tension to hold the vehicle, then release the button and let the lever down until the ratchet engages.
------------------------------------------------------
Gee Whizz Dave thats straight out of my old army driving instructors mouth, and so right.[]
They're usually higher, yes. If you guys in Canada can get a dealer to even acknowledge the existance of part numbers that begin with 460 then you're a step ahead of us here in the states. The dealers hava lot of overhead to support and parts prices are an important way for them to spread that burden. It's kind of silly that when I walk in, buy a part, and walk out I have to pay a piece of the nice tile floor in the showroom and the pretty receptionist behind the front desk, but that's the way it is.
When you go through a third party parts house, especially internet source, they don't have any of that overhead and so can sell cheaper while making enough profit to keep their business going.
That said, you sometimes do get lucky and find part that's been in dealer stock so long that it's got a 5 year old price marked on it that reflects the lower price the dealer paid for it back then. And if he's honest, he passes that savings to you. This is pretty rare, but I have experienced it before.
Happy hunting!
-Dave G.
When you go through a third party parts house, especially internet source, they don't have any of that overhead and so can sell cheaper while making enough profit to keep their business going.
That said, you sometimes do get lucky and find part that's been in dealer stock so long that it's got a 5 year old price marked on it that reflects the lower price the dealer paid for it back then. And if he's honest, he passes that savings to you. This is pretty rare, but I have experienced it before.
Happy hunting!
-Dave G.
I'd suggest ordering from Sean at Euro-Truck. I never have, but I did meet him in Graz and he has the highest recommendations. I've had good luck w/ Caliber Motors in LA. I would transition my business over to Sean but I'm usually ordering a bunch of parts for my 1966 also so the "one-stop shopping" for both vehicles and single shipping charges will make it hard to give up on Caliber. Even after Tom left Caliber I've found that Don is pretty good with the older cars. Caliber will sell grey market and 460 parts, your best bet is to be armed with part numbers.
Sean - do you sell much 110/111/112/108/109 chassis stuff???
Sean - do you sell much 110/111/112/108/109 chassis stuff???
Before getting any deeper what is the problem as unless totally destroyed easy to repair.
*Does the hand brake lever hold on the rachet without pulling in the button can you count the clicks.
*With the lever raised look down at the two hexagonal adjusters do they twist to the side and try to disapear under the lever.
*Have you made sure the shoes are fully adjusted against the drum, the lever adjustment is the last thing to adjust not the first.
The hand brake depends on the actuation of a
pair of cams and rollers with a rachet.
If the cable has insufficient free movement the first and additional notches will not come into contact with the teeth allowing the brake to engage. When the lever is raised watch the cable adjusters which must remain perfectly in line with the car if they vere sideways the brake rachet will not engage and the brake will release.
Stripping the lever needs the removal of the cover over the gear levers and brake lever, a screw either side at the front and two on the flat near the rear.
Peel back the gear gaiter rubbers (manual) and undo the levers from the shafts and the difflock knobs.
With the two front seats removed(4x 17mm)lift and rotate the plastic cover so that the handbrake can be slipped throughthe access hole. Doing the job is easier than describing it. If the hand brake has sufficient space to clear through OK otherwise back off the adjusters at the lever using a long 6mm oe spanner and a 11mm to turn off the brake adjuster nuts.HOLD THE CABLE FIRM BEFORE BACKING OFF>
Remove cover clean up dust and rubish before further work.
Remove the adjuster nuts from the cables and allow the hand brake to swing freely the rachet system should work.
There are two shafts, large and small holding the parts together leave in place and only remove the two bolts on either side cheeks that fasten the assenbly to the floor otherwise your in for a hard time. Study the action of the assembly which is complex You will find a small shaft on the lower edge of the lever which supports lever internals which will have become almost a fall out fit. rectify this by blob welding arc or a made up replacement dismanle taking care to look where everything fits! clean up the rachet with a small file reasseble and test without cables the rachet should work.
Jack up under centre of axle to allow wheels to spin, insert and tighten cables so that braking is just noticable on one notch of hold, lift lever and increase pull ensuring lever adjuster nuts remain straight ahead and all should now be well.If you get pull to one side it is the cable adjustment that needs to be relived or tightened to cause alignement.
Allow at least 3 to 4 hours to do this job its a pain.
The above faults were encountered on my 84 300gd earlier this week, the faults are very obvious when you know but difficult to diagnose as the mechanical system employed is unusual in layout. and any age bananering in the direction of application may hinder.
The brake should fully engage by the fourth notch.
Dave
*Does the hand brake lever hold on the rachet without pulling in the button can you count the clicks.
*With the lever raised look down at the two hexagonal adjusters do they twist to the side and try to disapear under the lever.
*Have you made sure the shoes are fully adjusted against the drum, the lever adjustment is the last thing to adjust not the first.
The hand brake depends on the actuation of a
pair of cams and rollers with a rachet.
If the cable has insufficient free movement the first and additional notches will not come into contact with the teeth allowing the brake to engage. When the lever is raised watch the cable adjusters which must remain perfectly in line with the car if they vere sideways the brake rachet will not engage and the brake will release.
Stripping the lever needs the removal of the cover over the gear levers and brake lever, a screw either side at the front and two on the flat near the rear.
Peel back the gear gaiter rubbers (manual) and undo the levers from the shafts and the difflock knobs.
With the two front seats removed(4x 17mm)lift and rotate the plastic cover so that the handbrake can be slipped throughthe access hole. Doing the job is easier than describing it. If the hand brake has sufficient space to clear through OK otherwise back off the adjusters at the lever using a long 6mm oe spanner and a 11mm to turn off the brake adjuster nuts.HOLD THE CABLE FIRM BEFORE BACKING OFF>
Remove cover clean up dust and rubish before further work.
Remove the adjuster nuts from the cables and allow the hand brake to swing freely the rachet system should work.
There are two shafts, large and small holding the parts together leave in place and only remove the two bolts on either side cheeks that fasten the assenbly to the floor otherwise your in for a hard time. Study the action of the assembly which is complex You will find a small shaft on the lower edge of the lever which supports lever internals which will have become almost a fall out fit. rectify this by blob welding arc or a made up replacement dismanle taking care to look where everything fits! clean up the rachet with a small file reasseble and test without cables the rachet should work.
Jack up under centre of axle to allow wheels to spin, insert and tighten cables so that braking is just noticable on one notch of hold, lift lever and increase pull ensuring lever adjuster nuts remain straight ahead and all should now be well.If you get pull to one side it is the cable adjustment that needs to be relived or tightened to cause alignement.
Allow at least 3 to 4 hours to do this job its a pain.
The above faults were encountered on my 84 300gd earlier this week, the faults are very obvious when you know but difficult to diagnose as the mechanical system employed is unusual in layout. and any age bananering in the direction of application may hinder.
The brake should fully engage by the fourth notch.
Dave
Wow
Kudos Dave for trying to describe all that! Great job. It's definitely easier to make sense of with the parts in front of you.
One thing I would recommend if possible is to get new adjusting nuts at the same time one gets a new lever assembly (if you go that way). In my case, the adjusting nuts being kind of buggered up at the end where they make contact with the pin through the lever was leading to the cables pulling un-evenly, even after I'd been through all the adjustments starting with the brake shoe free travel. I re-furbished mine a little, but I think one of these days I should fit new ones.
Keeping that stuff well adjusted is of course the key to getting the most life out of the parts. When the brake gets too much slop in it, bad stuff starts happenning and only gets worse.
In my case it eventually culminated in the teeth being worn off the ratchet, and in such a way that the pawl was defelected to the side, jamming into the lever body. My first discovery of it was on an off-road trip where, after completing a mildly gnarly hill climb I parked the truck to go back and watch others try the hill. When I came back to the truck, I couldn't get the hand brake to disengage and had to loosen the nuts to get it free. Yuck.
I think I have some workshop manual, or at least owners manual pages on this procedure. I should scan them and make them available.....
-Dave G.
Kudos Dave for trying to describe all that! Great job. It's definitely easier to make sense of with the parts in front of you.
One thing I would recommend if possible is to get new adjusting nuts at the same time one gets a new lever assembly (if you go that way). In my case, the adjusting nuts being kind of buggered up at the end where they make contact with the pin through the lever was leading to the cables pulling un-evenly, even after I'd been through all the adjustments starting with the brake shoe free travel. I re-furbished mine a little, but I think one of these days I should fit new ones.
Keeping that stuff well adjusted is of course the key to getting the most life out of the parts. When the brake gets too much slop in it, bad stuff starts happenning and only gets worse.
In my case it eventually culminated in the teeth being worn off the ratchet, and in such a way that the pawl was defelected to the side, jamming into the lever body. My first discovery of it was on an off-road trip where, after completing a mildly gnarly hill climb I parked the truck to go back and watch others try the hill. When I came back to the truck, I couldn't get the hand brake to disengage and had to loosen the nuts to get it free. Yuck.
I think I have some workshop manual, or at least owners manual pages on this procedure. I should scan them and make them available.....
-Dave G.
doesn't Warren t warrant a call?
No disrespect to Sean, but I think you should also try Warren t in Montreal, a helpful guy, who recently said........
"I also have many G parts in stock including
new front discs and pads, rear shoes etc.
Also have 463 front axle, G500 transmission
280 and 230 engines, numerous 460 parts new and used.
For more info call 450 227 8972 and I will
return call.
Cheers Warren"
Has to be worth a call. Is Halifax far from Montreal.
Bob
No disrespect to Sean, but I think you should also try Warren t in Montreal, a helpful guy, who recently said........
"I also have many G parts in stock including
new front discs and pads, rear shoes etc.
Also have 463 front axle, G500 transmission
280 and 230 engines, numerous 460 parts new and used.
For more info call 450 227 8972 and I will
return call.
Cheers Warren"
Has to be worth a call. Is Halifax far from Montreal.
Bob
WOW You guys are amazing.
Thanks Dave ( both ) you should write tech manuals.
Hi Bob, I spoke to Warren last night, very helpful and he does have a spare. Montreal is a about a 2 day drive ( in a 4sp 300GD ).
I also spoke (via email) to Sean, he can get the brake in 5-7 days and it will be $357 clams.
It ends up my mechanic, Burt Page, here in Halifax, replaced a few parts and did some welding ( I am not sure what yet...) and fixed it.
I will burn around a bit to see if all is well and decide if I will replace it. It sounds like it is fine now.
There is a great dealership here in Halifax, it seems the owner imported a few older Gs a few years ago so they are very G friendly. If only there prices were a bit lower!!!
Thanks to the others who replied as well, all the info is really helpful.
Now on to the next project.....
Thanks Dave ( both ) you should write tech manuals.
Hi Bob, I spoke to Warren last night, very helpful and he does have a spare. Montreal is a about a 2 day drive ( in a 4sp 300GD ).
I also spoke (via email) to Sean, he can get the brake in 5-7 days and it will be $357 clams.
It ends up my mechanic, Burt Page, here in Halifax, replaced a few parts and did some welding ( I am not sure what yet...) and fixed it.
I will burn around a bit to see if all is well and decide if I will replace it. It sounds like it is fine now.
There is a great dealership here in Halifax, it seems the owner imported a few older Gs a few years ago so they are very G friendly. If only there prices were a bit lower!!!
Thanks to the others who replied as well, all the info is really helpful.
Now on to the next project.....
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
