[darraghodonnell]

My grille slats are lightly oxidised - it looks like feint water marks - I used some T-Cut but it didn't remove it - SO, what is the non abrasive de-oxidising magic product?
thanks for listening,

While we're at it, does anyone know a way (other than sandpaper) to deoxidise the third brake light? - that Pittman product is not cheap.


Kindhindliest regeorgandmildredations,
Darragh

 

[Pete S]

Try a clay bar.


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[Poundy]

I don't think it is going to happen for you. Check this Vid out he did a lot of research on this problem.

 

[Pete S]

Poundy pretty good link but he never mentions a clay bar. I would give that a shot for sure.

BTW just went through your pic gallery the 5th pic (IMG3346) is simply a great shot. Love the angle. The Pano pops on your car like I have yet to see on any other. :thumbsup:

 

[Poundy]

Poundy pretty good link but he never mentions a clay bar. I would give that a shot for sure.

BTW just went through your pic gallery the 5th pic (IMG3346) is simply a great shot. Love the angle. The Pano pops on your car like I have yet to see on any other. :thumbsup:

Thank's Pete I went to peruse your pics but nothing popped up the last time I tried. Ahh! it's back on now :thumbsup:

 

[SL BRABUS]

So what's the best way to clean the Aluminum grille?

http://www.meguiars.com/en/automotive/products/g17216-ultimate-compound/

I try this....^^^..... Meguiars Ultimate Compound.....

http://www.meguiars.com/en/automotive/products/g1016-smooth-surfacereg-clay-kit/
You may need to clay it first..^^^.

 

[darraghodonnell]

Hi,
Thanks for the replies.
I watched that Kent Bergsma video in full. If he was more local to Ireland I would consider getting his product.
I can access the meguires range here so I might start there. They recommend a Dual Action Buffer, is this totally necessary as I want to keep the slats straight and I dont want to remove them from the car? Would my elbow and a microfibre cloth suffice?
Thanks.
Darragh

 

[Pete S]

The dual action buffer would be nice to have but at the time not sure how well it would work on the grille with all the tight spots you need to reach, elbow grease is your best bet for the grille IMO. Try a clay bar and then the ultimate compound, you should get nice results. Added bonus if you take some pics of the process and share with us.

 

[hotshoe]

I would be very careful. I have been monitoring this thread and thought I would add my input. If the slats are aluminum, anodized and dyed a titanium color, ANY abrasive compound will harm the anodic film. The anodize is very hard in itself, but very thin (0.0002"). A clay bar would be fine, but stay away from abrasives, caustics and acids. Dilute white vinegar may be used sparingly. I do bring some credibility, I have owned an anodize plant for almost 40 years. Once the coating is hazed, nothing short of replacement or stripping and reanodizing will repair it.


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[RedLiner]

When I bought my 1993 SL500 in 2006 the stained grille was one of my first projects http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r129-sl-class/1281038-radiator-grille.html

 

[darraghodonnell]

Redliner,
Thank you for the interesting link...
Mine is a 1999 car - re- http://www.paints4u.com/ProductDetails.aspx?productID=2311

1.I presume the slats are made of the same stuff as your car?
2.Is there much scrubbing required?
3.Can I use this product on the hard top and windscreen surrounding mouldings?
4.Would it be acceptable and not dangerous to the car bodywork to clean those other mouldings without removing form the car?

Thanks
Darragh

 

[Poundy]

I gathered the product was supplied specifically for body paint work applications, as a low swirl rubbing compound. So as long as you don't rub the paintwork hard and take the shine off, you should be okay. The down side is it only seems available from the US and it's quite expensive with the shipping.

 

[darraghodonnell]

I located the 3m perfect it fast cut compound 09374 locally and I'll get some this week.
Thanks very much poundy redliner hotshot
PeteS sl brabus et al.

 

[Hahn92]

Mr. Clean Magic Eraser (Original or Extra Strength) work wonders. You should give it a try. Look up "Mr. Clean Magic Eraser Removing Aluminum Oxidization".

 

[darraghodonnell]

I used a microfiber cloth and scrubbed with the 3M paste. Buffed, then waxed and buffed.
It did not do the trick.
The finish is shiny but the water mark-like staining remains.
The top two slats are worse than the lower ones.
I wonder is there another way?
Thanks
Darragh

 

[darraghodonnell]

OOps - always read the small print - I took advice from the link below but I was so excited at having the name of a product that worked that I forgot to read how to apply it.......I'll get back when I have tried the toothbrush approach..

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r129-sl-class/1281038-radiator-grille-3.html

Dougl65 said -
"My grille looked just like the one in the first picture. Like you I tried ever chemical I had in the cupboard and nothing shifted the staining until I came across and old bottle of 3M Perfect It Fast Cut Compound. This seems to work in a strange way...

If you put it on a cloth and apply it hard, nothing happens (strange because most cutting compunds work by pressure and heat). This works by applying loads of the compund and rubbing very gently. In fact the best way is on an old tooth brush.

As you rub you will see what looks like a laquer peeling off where the stains were, but I think it isn't laquer it is just the water marks coming away. Just to be sure I applied a coat of insulator wax from Collinite to protect it. My grille now looks immaculate.

It is easier if you remove the grille, then you can wash off the remains of the cutting compound afterwards.

This is the product you are looking for and believe me it really does work!!!:

http://www.paints4u.com/ProductDetai...productID=2311

3M might list this under a different code/name in the states although they are bound to have it."

 

[darraghodonnell]

I took out the grille. Used a toothbrush with the 3M Perfect-it product
3M? Perfect-It? lll Fast Cut Compound: Marine Supplies Catalogue: 3M United Kingdom (English)

Buffed. Polished with Autoglym Super Resin Polish.
Have I damaged the surface with the 3M Perfect-it? Autoglym Super Resin Polish (New Formulation) (325ml): Amazon.co.uk: Car & Motorbike
Buffed.
This did not work for me. The oxidisation/water marks remain.

Is the Super Resin enough to protect the slats?
Do I need more protection from the elements now?
What is my next step?

Thanks for listening
D.

 

[hotshoe]

A real simple test to see if you have removed some of the anodize is to use a continuity tester or ohm meter. Although aluminum is very conductive, the anodic film is not. And to put away the idea that titanium may have even used as grill slats, titanium is conductive also. I know for a fact that the slats on my '98 are anodized aluminum as is the trim around the windows and the flaps where the soft top linkage disappears to when lowered. If I had stains on mine, and clay didn't take it off, I would live with it rather than chance ruining the anodize. I will say that anodize is the best base for paint you can have for aluminum. Clean we'll and spray it if it's too ugly.


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