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85 300D (D for Don)
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought this kit over a year ago for my 85 BMW 524td. While I was (slowly) installing it, I was blending the WVO (waste veggie oil) with kerosene. The grease I was using was from a local diner and it turns out it was shitty grease with tons of emulsified water that never separated. It killed the injection pump before I finished the install, took the kit out and sold the car to a friend who fixed it and now drives it. I wanted a 300D anyway (long story, I was never happy with BMW's).....

I've been blending Diesel and WVO from local, high end restaurants which contains very little water and is very clean. Though the WVO is very clean, it has been breaking up junk in the tank and keeps clogging my primary filter screen ever 100 - 200 miles!!! The debris is is breaking up ias the sive of sand, is black and has not clogged the main spin-on filter.

I decided to get it installed this weekend and stop blending, only Diesel in the Diesel tank and WVO in the GreaseCar tank. The solenoids and heated filter are mounted on the drivers side fender and the 15 gallon rectangular tank is in the front of the trunk. The hoses are run and I hope to have it working tomorrow. I'll still need to wire up the fuel gauge which will be mounted in the ash tray with the switch but that's for another day. I also have a vacuum gauge I'm installing between the injection pump and the input solenoid so I can tell when a filter is starting to clog.

I currently have ~100 gallons of clean, filtered grease sitting in my garage awaiting the completion of my install. I drive 20 - 30K miles per year and can't wait to get off of Dino-Diesel (-:
 

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84' 300TD Greasecar
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That's great to hear. I've got a greasecar kit which works great but I need to find more sources of oil. The main place I was using is now getting paid for their oil.
 

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81' 300D, 82 300TD
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393 Posts
hey good to hear that the greasecar community is getting bigger on here. How are you filtering your oil? You should be able to filter out all the standing water no problem. have you replaced the fuel lines with new ones, they could be desintegrating from the oil. good on you by the way!!!
 

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have any pics... i am going to convert mine over soon as i can since i make biodiesel already and i have over 5,000 gallons of oil in the back yard. I been already getting complaints from the stores i get it from saying i need to come more often to get the oil... i think i got myself into it way to deep. where i get my storage tanks arnt putting them out fast enough and it is getting me irritated. If you live down this way i would give you all you want!!!!!!!!
 

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81' 300D, 82 300TD
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393 Posts
have you guys seen my greasecar install post, lots and lots of pictures.

check it out
 

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85 300D (D for Don)
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242 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'll get some pics once it's done. Right now I have all the stuff installed but I'm having trouble figuring out how to connect the veg & diesel in/out hoses.
Maybe someone can help me...... There are two 1/4" fuel lines on the injection pump, one on the rear passenger side (between the IP and the engine) of the IP and one on the front driver side. The rear passenger side one appears to be the return, I'm assuming the front drivers side hose is the fuel in? When I disconnect it and run the car with the hose in a cup of fuel, I get a ton of fuel shooting out the filter spigot that the other end of the hose is suppose to connect to. Any insight would be appreciated.

I stopped using diner grease so I don't think I'll have the water and filtering problems I did before. My oil is about the color of new motor oil.
I filter with two 55 gallon drums. After letting the oil sit in the 5 gallon cubies for a few days I pour it into the first one which is a settling tank. It has 2 ball valves, 1 at the bottom and another ~6" up from the bottom. There is a whole house water filter with 5 micron filter element attached to the upper ballvalve, the bottom one is just to let the settled junk out every once in a while. I also have a 350watt aquarium heater in this drum which heats to ~90*F. Attached to the filter is a Harbor Frieght 1" water pump that is used to pump the grease into the second drum. The second drum has only one ball valve near the bottom which is connected to another Harbor Freight 1" water pump and 2 whole house water filters which also use 5 micron filter elements. After pumping the grease into this tank I'll turn on the pump with the hose going back into the top of the drum. This just circulates the oil through the filters over and over....
I have a pressure switch I plan to attach between the pump and the filters so if I clog a filter it will turn off the pump but as of now I only run it while I'm in the garage to check on it from time to time...
 

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85 300D (D for Don)
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks guys!!! Now that I have some diagrams I think the rest will be cake...... I think (-:
 

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85 300D (D for Don)
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
weoner said:
didn't your kit come with a diagram?
I bought my kit over a year ago for my 524td. It did not come with a diagram and the "manual" at t time was not complete.

I put all the fuel lines on as per your diagrams and after an epic struggle to get all the air out of the lines, everything worked fine. I still need to atach the coolanat hoses under the car and then I can take it for a ride.

The primary filter screen is now directly attached to the main filter. Though the car seems to run 100%, I find it odd that the fuel seems to drain out of it when the engine is off. I think perhaps I should move it to a lower location....
 

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91 300SE
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From the sounds of it, you don't have the "blocked" banjo bolt on top of the filter assembly. You'll need to get a solid bolt, or take the stock bolt out and weld the hole shut.

The stock Mercedes banjo bolt has a hole in the threads. You'll need to close that.

As an aside, I finally finished my conversion. Works without bleeding air, uses no coolant lines, and is very cheap to build. I'll be working on the website, now that I finally finished it.

It involves two electric heaters and a secondary electric inline carb fuel pump. You can't tell if you're running on veggie ever, and it reduces the stress on the IP.
 

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85 300D (D for Don)
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Can you please tell me why I need to block the banjo bolt?
Thank you.
 

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merouby said:
From the sounds of it, you don't have the "blocked" banjo bolt on top of the filter assembly. You'll need to get a solid bolt, or take the stock bolt out and weld the hole shut.

The stock Mercedes banjo bolt has a hole in the threads. You'll need to close that.

As an aside, I finally finished my conversion. Works without bleeding air, uses no coolant lines, and is very cheap to build. I'll be working on the website, now that I finally finished it.

It involves two electric heaters and a secondary electric inline carb fuel pump. You can't tell if you're running on veggie ever, and it reduces the stress on the IP.

can i get a diagram im looking to convert mine as cheap as i can but with good solid parts. I need to find out the fuel preassure of these engines first before i buy the pumps.
 

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85 300D (D for Don)
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Storx said:
can i get a diagram im looking to convert mine as cheap as i can but with good solid parts. I need to find out the fuel preassure of these engines first before i buy the pumps.
I used the diagram on the prevoius page, which is the same diagram as the Greasecar diagram that weoner posted in his install thread.
 

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If you do not block the banjo bolt, the diesel fuel will siphon out of your diesel tank and return into your veggie tank, until the veggie tank fills up, even though you are set to run on veggie.

Greasecar sells a bolt to replace the banjo bolt when you specify you'll be installing it on a Mercedes. The bolt costs $10 plus shipping, but you can get the same result by welding the hole in your existing stock Mercedes banjo bolt.

As for your water in veggie oil issue, do what I did: Buy a element heater from Sears (meant for water heaters) and wire up an electric cord (12 guage), then suspend it from a big metal pot and boil the oil to evaporate any water. The used oil should turn from brown to black, and steam should be expelled, when the water goes to the top.
 

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Storx said:
can i get a diagram im looking to convert mine as cheap as i can but with good solid parts. I need to find out the fuel preassure of these engines first before i buy the pumps.
Storx, Give me this weekend and I will write up the website using good parts, and a superior veggie system. There should be no reason to spend over $300 for a quality conversion. The system I use is all electric (no worries about routing coolant), does not require air bleeding, simple, cheap and lessens the strain on the diesel injection pump. Best of all, it's meant for the W123 & 616/617 engines in mind. Step by step instructions! :)
 

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merouby said:
Storx, Give me this weekend and I will write up the website using good parts, and a superior veggie system. There should be no reason to spend over $300 for a quality conversion. The system I use is all electric (no worries about routing coolant), does not require air bleeding, simple, cheap and lessens the strain on the diesel injection pump. Best of all, it's meant for the W123 & 616/617 engines in mind. Step by step instructions! :)

thank you so much for helping me out with that with a quick responce. I will be picking up the car tonight and plan to convert very shortly.
 

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85 300D (D for Don)
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
merouby said:
If you do not block the banjo bolt, the diesel fuel will siphon out of your diesel tank and return into your veggie tank, until the veggie tank fills up, even though you are set to run on veggie.

Greasecar sells a bolt to replace the banjo bolt when you specify you'll be installing it on a Mercedes. The bolt costs $10 plus shipping, but you can get the same result by welding the hole in your existing stock Mercedes banjo bolt.

As for your water in veggie oil issue, do what I did: Buy a element heater from Sears (meant for water heaters) and wire up an electric cord (12 guage), then suspend it from a big metal pot and boil the oil to evaporate any water. The used oil should turn from brown to black, and steam should be expelled, when the water goes to the top.

Thank you for the tip. Which bolt is it? The return bolt on top? I have a welder and can do it this weekend.
 

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Here you go:

 
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