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· CH4S Admin , Outstanding Contributor
1985 500SEC, 1991 190E 2.6.
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50,680 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Lately, my car has not been running great with a number of related problems. An American Friend of mine, who used to work for Sauber, is a Master mechanic at a Swiss Porsche dealership (on the recommendation of Alois Ruf, no less), and is familiar with MB. He is in town for two more weeks, and I talked him into sorting out my car. He originally found the short vac line missing and the hole plugged on the idle valve (replaced), a defect electric connector on the idle valve (replaced), the board inside the idle control box was jury rigged (replaced), sticking throttle plate (housing replaced). I just received an additional housing, complete w. fuel distributor that still has the steel ball closing off the adjustment tower, two leaking exhaust manifold gaskets (ordered 8), I also ordered all vacuum line connectors. Minus the intake manifold, there is a vac line visible in the back, that runs into a rusty looking valve (will be replaced). He removed the intake manifold, which only had an old gasket on the drivers, and 'none' on the passenger side (have new gaskets and plenum rings). Amazing that the car ran as good as it did. The passenger side camshaft # 2 Cyl. exhaust lobe is visibly lower (perhaps caused by a cheap item like a clogged oiler, rail has been cleaned and oilers replaced). I have a good replacement cam. We might need to replace one or two rockers, I ordered keepers and shims.
Now the good news:
The car now has 140K miles, and both heads have already been done. The springs have the factory red and another set of markings, the valve guides and even the valves look new. The chain and tensioner looks recent, and the rails look like apx. 20-25K miles. The chain has too much play. My buddy wants to clean the tensioner. If that doesn't work, it will be replaced with an OEM. I'll replace all the hard to get to parts, like the short lenght of coolant hose between thermostat and intake manifold & others (recommendations???). My not very old distr. cap and especially the rotor look done. He'll replace, and check the distributor bushings and replace as needed, once it can be put to zero.
Have the experts here heard about advancing the timing chain 1 tooth, to even out (blue print) the engine?

All this stuff is quite exciting to me. I'll keep you informed, and try to take pictures.
 

· CH4S Admin , Outstanding Contributor
1985 500SEC, 1991 190E 2.6.
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50,680 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well, If you are ever in the area around Basel. Beside the Porsche, he went through an BMW program, and used to be at a L.A. Ferrari dealership.
He is also a very good guitar player. That's how we originally met, many moons ago.
 

· Registered
'90 560SEL, '73 350SLC (euro)
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2,590 Posts
Teutone: He sounds like a guy I would love to meet - but your Basel would be a challenge for me and my car- please suggest to him that he needs a holiday and that New Zealand is not the worst destination he could pick....hell, I'll pick him up at the airport.
 

· Registered
Smoke Silver '87 560SEC, Black Pearl '87 560SEL
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4,723 Posts
I believe one-tooth advance is too much, but they make offset woodruff keys that lock the cam to the drive gear. Don't forget this is a very expensive "interference" engine.

The timing can be advanced as well but other folks will have tell you which resistor to change.
 

· CH4S Admin , Outstanding Contributor
1985 500SEC, 1991 190E 2.6.
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50,680 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
This morning we bought and ordered a bunch of parts from an parts jobber friend, but could only find the individual vacuum connectors (around the engine) one by one. Some of the connectors under the intake manifold rarely see the light of day. Does anyone know who sells a complete set of 'all' the connectors?
 

· Registered
W126, W140 & W221
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53 Posts
Teutone,

I am doing a similar replacement of the vacuum lines and connectors right now, after spending countless hours on the Internet I have not found anyone who packages these together. Short of a very good parts man to put it together I came up short.

If you do find a "set" of all the connectors would you post where you found it?

Thanks!
 

· CH4S Admin , Outstanding Contributor
1985 500SEC, 1991 190E 2.6.
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50,680 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the info, I'll check it out.
Just to be on the safe side, I'll mark the placement, pull off all connectors, and write down the numbers for ordering.

BTW, today the pass. side cam will be swapped, drilling out and installing a master link in the chain. The old cam has a visibly lower No.2 exhaust lobe.
My mechanic friend found me competent enough to flush and clean both lube rails, but didn't trust me to install the oilers ( he was trained by some very picky Germans in the U.S. and Germany, who would dock part of his pay check, for forgetting / leaving out steps ).
I pulled a distributor off a 380SE Euro today to have a choice on which of the two to replace the bushings. This is the car with the perfect black interior I had mentioned.
I thought someone would have pulled the great looking interior by now for next to nothing.

2/29. Hi Aspect, your listed links had only the odd one.
 

· Premium Member
1989 560SEC AMG Euro / 2018 C43 4Matic Sedan / 2006 CLS500 AMG
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2,357 Posts
Does this 380SE have the Euro headlamp wipers? I could use a new motor/arm for my 560SEC Euro (Drivers side)

Oh, and if it's the Gen2 rear deck with the first aid/storage compartments I could also use the lids as well.

- Steve

....Sorry, no wipers. T
 

· Registered
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7,043 Posts
Teutone said:
My mechanic friend found me competent enough to flush and clean both lube rails, but didn't trust me to install the oilers

Teutone,

1. How and what did you flush the rails with ?


2. What's the trick or difficulty to installing the oilers ?




..and did you buy the oilers online or at the B Hills dealer ?


.
 

· CH4S Admin , Outstanding Contributor
1985 500SEC, 1991 190E 2.6.
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50,680 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Just got in after a looong day.
For the oil rails, some of my long gun brushes plus brake cleaner and lots of it. Soak the rails, then pry off the old oilers without bending or damaging the rails. The new oilers are not difficult to install. Just make sure the lube openings in the rail correspond with the oiler nozzles.
You can buy online, but I have yet to find a seller who offers 'all' the fittings for our cars. I get most of my parts from a friend who is an importer / jobber in the S.F. valley. Today I ordered the vacuum lines and fittings (engine) at 1:30 PM, and picked them up at 4 PM.
You'll need to get new valve cover gaskets. Do not over torque. I specifically got myself a nice 3/8 drive torque wrench for low torque, 15-80 Lb.
I took pictures of all the vacuum line fittings with the MB numbers and will post this shortly. The pics are O.K., but have a little too much reflection from the flash/plastic packaging. I want to take another set in the daytime.
I don't have time to order and wait for the different color coded lines offered online. My master mechanic friend goes back to Switzerland in 10 days. I got a great deal on the correct ID German made vacuum line, but had to buy the minimum of 25 meters.
If you have additional questions, PM me.

Correction (3/4/07): For rail # 2 we used Simple Green, works just as good. Af all the oilers to get off, the end caps are often the most stubborn. If a soak in a simple green bath doesn't do it, try to heat the plastic a little. The rails are aluminum, try not to use pliers.
 

· CH4S Admin , Outstanding Contributor
1985 500SEC, 1991 190E 2.6.
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50,680 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
My best guesstimate would be in the neighborhood of 12 ft lb. It doesn't take much. I'll ask my buddy later.
Our resident experts say that most valve cover gasket leaks are caused by over tightening and squishing the gasket. Make sure you always use new copper crush washers under the bolts, and some lithium grease around the bolt shafts wouldn't hurt. Available from the dealer at prices that even make certain Columbians a bit envious, or cheaper online. My parts guy had them in packs of 50.

3/4/07, Correction: The later quoted 4 ft. Lb should be much closer to the truth. Most orig. MB bolts have the torque stamped on the head (need a magn. glass), in newton meters. Mike the tech said that if you crush the copper crush washers all the way, you torqued the bolt too tight, and may have a leak.
Will post when I get the correct setting.
 

· CH4S Admin , Outstanding Contributor
1985 500SEC, 1991 190E 2.6.
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50,680 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Car has 140,000 ml. Both heads show the red marked springs etc. from previous overhaul (incl new valve guides), the cam followers are in great shape and seem fairly new, the chain and rails look recent too. The aftermarket tensioner didn't do the job too well. It has been removed and cleaned. Otherwise the tech will replace it with a MB tensioner. So far I have replaced / ordered: 2 hydr. lifters, 2 rocker arms, waterpump, fan clutch (the old pump and fan clutch are still O.K. but not 100%, this is the best time), thermostat, the chain driven distributor drive in the engine (small sprocket with worm gear), some of the linkage, the large rubber booth under air meter housing, new intake manifold gaskets, plenum rings, ful pump & filter, all water hoses and the two between intake manifold and firewall, ac compressor to be rebuild, one new belt tensioner pulley, exhaust manifold gaskets, Throttle ody gasket plus many other gaskets, all vacuum line fittings, hard lines and rubber hose, plus vac. check valve, (bought the min. of 5 meters rubber hose and 25 meters of vac. lines). There were more parts I don't remember right now (later), and more to come. I'll replace everything not up to snuff.
He cleaned out the gunk from the lubrication rails, and advanced the chain one tooth.
Here are a few pics, pass. side cam removed and thrown away, 2 defect lifters removed (the innards of one flew 4-5 feet into the air when the camshaft was removed), and with exchange cam, two new lifters and rockers installed.
The new lifters got a long oil soak before installation.
More to follow.
 

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· Always Remembered RIP
2015 ML 400 x 2
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16,630 Posts
Damn, that's going to be nearly a new engine when you're finished!

You didn't consider changing the rails while you were in there anyhow? Just to give you anothe 100k miles before you go back in?

Cheers
 

· CH4S Admin , Outstanding Contributor
1985 500SEC, 1991 190E 2.6.
Joined
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50,680 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
My tech thinks the rails have only between 20-25k. I suggested a change, but my guy said I had another 90 + k or so miles to go. Same with the heads. The red rebuild marking on the springs have washed off now, but the valve guides look new, the valves move and look great, as do the stem seals.
 
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