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1974 450sl, 1986 190e, 97 sl320 40th sold
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Discussion Starter #1
If anyone is looking for plug wires i just got a good deal on bwd 7mm 5k ohm resistance wires with the heavy duty metal ends on them. They look really well made and should fit any 4.5l v8. They only cost $27 + shipping from rockauto heres the link BWD/NIEHOFF Part # CH7826SP Only 11 sets left...

 

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'85 380SL (155Kmiles), '82 240D stick, '80 300SD, '77 240D, '89 BMW 535i, 3 VW Diesels, 2 Triumphs
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^^ except that that part number per their catalog does not have the metal boots, but some sort of "aftermarket boot". Might well still be fine. Let us know how they work. The ones pictured are CH7839 and they are about $62
 

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Premium Member
'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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10,333 Posts
According to the description, those are not copper core wires which MBs and most euro cars are designed to use.

If they are not copper and specifically designed for MB V-8s of early 70s, I would return them and buy a set of Bosch wires which are copper even although the box says otherwise ;). There are also other makes with proper copper cores.

The Bosch wires have a similar description to the BWD ones, but for MB V-8s, they are not as described - they have the proper copper core.

Beru wires which are likely OE have copper cores. But Beru was bought out by Borg Warners (aka BWD). they would be a lot more expensive.
 

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1974 450sl, 1986 190e, 97 sl320 40th sold
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506 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
^^ except that that part number per their catalog does not have the metal boots, but some sort of "aftermarket boot". Might well still be fine. Let us know how they work. The ones pictured are CH7839 and they are about $62
I have them in my hands they do have the metal boots.

According to the description, those are not copper core wires which MBs and most euro cars are designed to use.

If they are not copper and specifically designed for MB V-8s of early 70s, I would return them and buy a set of Bosch wires which are copper even although the box says otherwise ;). There are also other makes with proper copper cores.

The Bosch wires have a similar description to the BWD ones, but for MB V-8s, they are not as described - they have the proper copper core.

Beru wires which are likely OE have copper cores. But Beru was bought out by Borg Warners (aka BWD). they would be a lot more expensive.
They are indeed copper core wires, the say so right on the wires.
 

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R/C107 Moderator
1986 560SL: '84 500SL: '84 280SL 5 speed: other 107s
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32,330 Posts
Thanks for reporting.
Note: I think only the early model D-Jets use the 5K OHM resistor wires. Later models have 1K OHM wires.
 

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1972 350SL 148,000 miles
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7,104 Posts
I'm following this as well, I need to replace my Beru Wires (I think) as I have replaced just about everything else and My plugs are still fouling a little bit, I suspect the problem is elsewhere but I suspect my wires need to be changed anyway, I'm halfway tempted to buy a roll of the correct wire and put my Beru Fittings on them, I did that with my coil wire which had frayed and it works great
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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I have them in my hands they do have the metal boots.

They are indeed copper core wires, the say so right on the wires.
The Bosch were like that too. Box said they had stainless steel mag windings but actual wires said copper core. Kind of confusing when even web site descriptions are wrong.

Hope those wires work well for you.

Have you measured end to end resistance?
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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I'm halfway tempted to buy a roll of the correct wire and put my Beru Fittings on them, I did that with my coil wire which had frayed and it works great
Seems like a good plan if you can buy just enough to do the wires. When I looked at that, the roll was much more than I wanted and vendor would not cut it. Some probably will.
 

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1974 450sl, 1986 190e, 97 sl320 40th sold
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Discussion Starter #10
Man you guys are a tough crowd to please lol

Heres an actual pic of the wires i received


copper core


I measured the resistance on them and they were all 5.15
 

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1972 350SL 148,000 miles
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Seems like a good plan if you can buy just enough to do the wires. When I looked at that, the roll was much more than I wanted and vendor would not cut it. Some probably will.
Napa Store a few miles away has the correct wire and cuts pieces to length in meter lengths, as in they sell it by the meter, so I could buy 5 meters or whatever for cheap, 12 bucks or something ridiculous, and the beru fittings just have a copper pin that injects into the wire iirc, it was ridiculously easy

PS I fixed my fouling and stuttering by advancing my timing. When I set it correctly it runs like shit, when I turn it 3/16" and advance it, it runs like a top, always has, I forgot, but timing kept me busy for two months, I kept setting it, it kept running like crap, I'd advance it, it ran great, then I'd think "that can't be right" and I'd reset it to spec, ran like crap, advance it purr purr
 

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R/C107 Moderator
1986 560SL: '84 500SL: '84 280SL 5 speed: other 107s
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Napa Store a few miles away has the correct wire and cuts pieces to length in meter lengths, as in they sell it by the meter, so I could buy 5 meters or whatever for cheap, 12 bucks or something ridiculous, and the beru fittings just have a copper pin that injects into the wire iirc, it was ridiculously easy

PS I fixed my fouling and stuttering by advancing my timing. When I set it correctly it runs like shit, when I turn it 3/16" and advance it, it runs like a top, always has, I forgot, but timing kept me busy for two months, I kept setting it, it kept running like crap, I'd advance it, it ran great, then I'd think "that can't be right" and I'd reset it to spec, ran like crap, advance it purr purr
A sign of worn cam sprockets and chain stretch.
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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Napa Store a few miles away has the correct wire and cuts pieces to length in meter lengths, as in they sell it by the meter, so I could buy 5 meters or whatever for cheap, 12 bucks or something ridiculous, and the beru fittings just have a copper pin that injects into the wire iirc, it was ridiculously easy

PS I fixed my fouling and stuttering by advancing my timing. When I set it correctly it runs like shit, when I turn it 3/16" and advance it, it runs like a top, always has, I forgot, but timing kept me busy for two months, I kept setting it, it kept running like crap, I'd advance it, it ran great, then I'd think "that can't be right" and I'd reset it to spec, ran like crap, advance it purr purr
I was looking at something else in the EPC and right there they say for dealer to make wires using bulk cable. So you are doing it the dealer way ;)

An old MB mechanic told me to use the standard settings in the manual instead of the NA settings. (27-30deg BTDC) That must surely be in your D-jet EG thread? Maybe not. I know I keep saying to do that but it sometimes falls on deaf ears :)
 

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1972 350SL 148,000 miles
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A sign of worn cam sprockets and chain stretch.
I don't doubt that a bit, thanks, that is good information

I was looking at something else in the EPC and right there they say for dealer to make wires using bulk cable. So you are doing it the dealer way ;)

An old MB mechanic told me to use the standard settings in the manual instead of the NA settings. (27-30deg BTDC) That must surely be in your D-jet EG thread? Maybe not. I know I keep saying to do that but it sometimes falls on deaf ears :)
I end up around 30-32 and it runs great, I -really- need to replace the vacuum advance on my dist cap, it's kind of a no brainer that it would affect things, but I always space it out when I am working on the car and buying things for it
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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A sign of worn cam sprockets and chain stretch.
Probably true, but on D-jets that don't have those problems, perhaps stupid environmental rules that made MB tell us in NA to detune their engines ;).
 

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R/C107 Moderator
1986 560SL: '84 500SL: '84 280SL 5 speed: other 107s
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Probably true, but on D-jets that don't have those problems, perhaps stupid environmental rules that made MB tell us in NA to detune their engines ;).
The chain system is the same with the the exception of the guide rails on the earliest models. Cam sprockets wear. Chain stretches. Tensioner weakens.
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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10,333 Posts
The chain system is the same with the the exception of the guide rails on the earliest models. Cam sprockets wear. Chain stretches. Tensioner weakens.
When I said "don't have those problems", I meant that those problems had already been corrected :).

What I was getting at Rowdie, is that the Euro cars are spec'd to run with timing at 30deg BTDC . NA cars are spec'd at 18-22def BTDC at 3000rpm no vac, but run much better with more advance.
 

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1986 560SL with M120 V12 Engine, 1988 560SL Stock
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Man you guys are a tough crowd to please lol

Heres an actual pic of the wires i received


copper core


I measured the resistance on them and they were all 5.15
5.15K did that include the spark plug boot. The boot is its own resistore. What are the Ohms of the distributor wire?
 

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'72 350SL, '85 300D, '98 E320, '19 Subaru Outback (sold '14 GLK250)
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10,333 Posts
5.15K did that include the spark plug boot. The boot is its own resistore. What are the Ohms of the distributor wire?
Way back when I took apart my original MB wires, I measured almost nothing across the copper cored wire. Distributor end was 1kohm and plug end was 5kohm (all from memory, but about right). That was by taking wires apart and measuring actual resistors. Overal, the resistamce of teh old wires were higher - probably due to age, bad internal contacts, corrosion??

One thing - the number often stamped onto the wire ends, is probably just for that end. For example, if the plug end is stamped 5kohms, that is for that end. The distributor end might be 1kohm and may or may not be stamped as such. It is all a bit confusin, but probably doesn't matter too much. I would stay with my current thinking - 1kohm wires with resistor plugs or 5+kohm wires with non-resistor plugs.

I was going to order a set of the wires yamaha found. Only because I already have a set of new non-resistor plugs and the wires would cost less than a set of resistor plugs that I currently use :) And, I like to experiment! But, freight cost to Canada is as much as the wires, so I forgot that idea :(

For those who haven't seen this, this is what the original wires were like :
 

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