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I did the same, except black on black.

But one thing I recall, is that the seat belt material is 2" while the original straps and the front clamping depression are 1 1/2". End had to be cut down to fit. I think I included pictures in the EGV107 thread on top replacement.

I at first bought the elastics from a fabric store. But really, it was next to useless. I then bought batten pocket elastic from a local sailmaker. You can also get it on-line from Sailrite.

I added some foam tape where the nylon webbing crosses the bows. Before I did that, there was a hard point and small crease in that area.

One of those jobs that I am glad I tackled, but don't want to do again!

Not a pleasant job, not a physical job - more like stressful aliken to painting a room in your house.
I think if I had to do it again, that it would be more enjoyable
and turn out better.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Finished gluing the top......

Well, as luck would have it, my sister decided to stop by with her Audi A4 convertible and when she pulled up, there was steam pouring out from under the hood and a stream of coolant draining from the front of the engine all over my driveway. Had to address that first by hosing everything off, pouring in some stop leak and topping it off over and over so she could at least drive it to the local repair shop in the morning. She tried to drive home, but after only 5 miles she called me to say its overheating on the expressway. Three hours later, car is safely back at my house so I have a little bit of time to tackle the final gluing on the top header.

Everything tacked up so I followed my chalk marks and added some spring clamps on the double stitched seams that follow the bow straps just to make sure they glued down tight overnight. I still have to figure out how much material to cut off where the corners all meet so I will take a look at the old top for reference.

This morning I removed the clamps and everything looked good so I crossed my fingers, partially secured the front header pins and then used a good amount of my weight to press down the rear latch. I'm sure when I get the car into the sun for a few hours everything will start to stretch and make latching and unlatching less of a wrestling match.

Despite measuring and adjusting the rear bow material to sit smooth with no bunching, I do have a slight ripple on both sides near the rear side windows which leads me to believe I pulled the material too tight from the rear latch pin because I was concerned that I was going to end up being short material when I got to the vertical upright top pieces.

The issue is you have to wrap the material around the edge and get the double seam exactly on the corner, but you can't confirm it will be spot on or short until you have glued the material to the rear bow in place. Mine fits right at the corner on both sides, but where I glued the material to the edge of the rear bows, the material is pulled too tight and now the material between the edge of the rear bow to the vertical upright piece has the ripple. Maybe some sun and maybe some added steam will relax the material, but for my first soft top install it went pretty smoothly and I am pleased with the results. -- the money savings are a plus as well since most shops wanted over $1K to do this.

I just have to trim the excess material and replace the seals and then keep the top up most likely for the rest of this season and during winter storage.

I will post some more photos of the finished product. Thanks again Fonzi for the top since it looks great and in my opinion is excellent quality. Like my convertible, the top on the MB will most likely enjoy a majority of its life tucked away inside the soft top boot, but at least it gives my wife a little more peace of mind in case she gets caught in sudden downpour. I just have to make sure she is able to secure the top without the need to call AAA.

Ted:grin
 

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I've been told by a MBCA member that Mercedes makes a special glue to use when replacing their soft tops. It's not contact cement. He said that most contact cements and glues will bleed through the material. I've talked to three different installers and none of them know anything about any Mercedes glue. Would appreciate thoughts since I'm about to have this done and the installer is one of those that never heard of any special glue for Mercedes soft tops.
Thanks
 

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I've been told by a MBCA member that Mercedes makes a special glue to use when replacing their soft tops. It's not contact cement. He said that most contact cements and glues will bleed through the material. I've talked to three different installers and none of them know anything about any Mercedes glue. Would appreciate thoughts since I'm about to have this done and the installer is one of those that never heard of any special glue for Mercedes soft tops.
Thanks
3M 1357 Contact Adhesive will not bleed through.

The End.


And yes....I'm sure MB has there own adhesive......and it it dries brownish.
 

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3M 1357 Contact Adhesive will not bleed through.

The End.


And yes....I'm sure MB has there own adhesive......and it it dries brownish.

Ditto about MB adhesive dries brownish, and the factory was sloppy with the
Adhesive too. I lived with the brown slop until I replaced my soft top
and then used Jasco Adhesive Remover to clean my soft top bows squeeky
clean.

HH-66 is another contact cement that works well. I used it to install my soft top. You will need two to three 8oz cans.
 

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Listen to the members here. Before I found the forum I replaced my soft top myself without any advice about 13 years ago. Just lucky using regular DAP contact cement from ACE Hardware since that was the only source I had. Just lucky that it was okay but I never replaced the elastic straps old straps, they are now 45 years old, still there but hang down like a limp noodle. Guess I'll just cut them off one day. I also wound up with the ducktail on one side end but can live with it since I live in the tropics and the top is mostly always down whenever I take out the old gal for a weekend ride. One day if I manage to outlive the roadster I'll replace the top again and at least I have this forum and advice to go by next time.

Cheers.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
In the last photos, you can see there is a slight wrinkle on both sides (right more than the left), but after wetting down the top and letting it dry in the sunshine for a few hours, the wrinkles on the left were completely gone and the right side was almost unnoticeable.

To say this repair was difficult is an understatement if the goal is to make the top fit snug, not too tight, but not too loose. I guess if you are in the business of replacing these tops, you learn after a half a dozen of them, just how much you need to pull the material to make it look nice.

I left the top up at least two weeks and let the car sit in the sun a few hours each weekend to allow the top to stretch. I haven't driven the car on the highway with the top and windows up so that will be my next test to see if I have any obvious gaps in the weatherstripping.

The weather seal kit I bought came with one piece side strips that go over each window. The original seals were two separate pieces above each window. I had to slice the seals and then trim about a 1/4" off in the middle to keep the seals from bunching up and pulling out of the stainless channel.

The windows did not require any adjustment to allow the doors to be opened and closed with the windows up, but after a drive at highway speeds I may have to tweak them as well.

The rear lays down nice with no "ducktail" that I read some people encountered. The way I circumvented the lifting of the rear flap was to hold the outer flap with my left hand while I pulled the inner piece to glue it to the rear bow. If you just grab the inner piece of the flap and glue it, the outer will stick out and give you a lifted duck's tail appearance. Just a suggestion for anyone looking to tackle this any time soon.

for some reason, the company that Fonzi bought the replacement top from included the canvas material cut out from each rear side window and the rear window. I used the large section from the rear window to line the floor inside the tonneau cover so the new top and plastic window has a softer material to lay against. Hopefully this will minimize any wear or scratches in the canvas and plastic windows.

If anyone has any additional questions or would like additional photos of the before, during and after repair, just let me know.

Now onto the the rear parking brake shoes, troubleshooting the AC system and getting some more miles on the car.

Ted
 

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The weather seal kit I bought came with one piece side strips that go over each window. The original seals were two separate pieces above each window. I had to slice the seals and then trim about a 1/4" off in the middle to keep the seals from bunching up and pulling out of the stainless channel.
I'm guessing you didn't read my soft top thread.

It comes in one piece and is meant to be cut.

the top looks great!

Good job....you will have inspired others.
 

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...
The rear lays down nice with no "ducktail" that I read some people encountered. The way I circumvented the lifting of the rear flap was to hold the outer flap with my left hand while I pulled the inner piece to glue it to the rear bow. If you just grab the inner piece of the flap and glue it, the outer will stick out and give you a lifted duck's tail appearance. Just a suggestion for anyone looking to tackle this any time soon.
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Ted

Nice job Ted. Looks like a professional job.
Thanks for the tip about the "ducktail". I've been wanting
to go back and fixing my ducktail. I did not glue in the rear bow rubber so
I can remove it, then pull up the back and reglue. Just received another
can of HH-66 to do this.
 
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