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Hey guys, took the truck into the Local Stealer Dealer and they told me that the flaps are broken on my GL450 Intake Manifold 2007. They quoted me 3700.00 to do the job. I left, and obviously won't have them do the job. I have found the part online for 580.00 and a video on how to do it. doesn't look that hard to do. has anyone here ever done this job? I also have a gross evaporator leak, and a check engine light on, but I don't think that has anything to do with the intake manifold. whats everyones thoughts?
 

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Usually the flaps aren't what the problem is. It's actually the plastic rod that operates the flaps. When you take the engine cover off there is a little pod on the front of the intake. There will be a plastic rod coming out of the bottom of this pod. That plastic rod will be broken so the flaps in the intake will not operate. Dealers like to replace the entire intake because as far as I know you can't just get that plastic rod from mercedes. There are a few aftermarket companies who make it though. The rod it actually connected to the pod so you have to purchase them as an assembly. It's only about $150, and the replacement is metal so you won't have to worry about it again. I replaced the one on my 2010 back about a year ago and it's still doing fine. The key to this job is just there's a lot of crap to keep track of. Just go slow and label things if you have to. Also buy a set of intake gaskets as well. You'll want to replace those while you have the intake off. Also buy a couple of feet of vacuum line from autozone. There are a few lengths of vacuum line you can only get to while you have the intake off so you'll want to replace them.

2007 MERCEDES-BENZ GL450 4.6L V8 Intake Manifold Actuator | RockAuto
 

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Just bought a 2012 GL 450 with the same issue. Very common. Instead of the kit, I decided to buy a rebuilt manifold for $300. Has 1 year warranty and upgraded metal part. If I'm paying for the labor, may as well change to whole thing for a little more
 

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Wondering how do we know if the intake manifold flaps are broken? maybe check engine light with a certain error code?
Do they all go bad after certain mileage/age? thanks

for 2 days last week, my 2007 GL450 got a check engine light with error code P0128 P2015, and then the check engine light went away by itself.
Thanks,
 

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Hi guys, new to the forum. Just had work done on my GL450 intake manifold. Instead of replacing the intake manifold, the shop I used fixed the exiting manifold by replacing the plastic actuator rod with an aluminum one. Found out about this by going to youtube and searching for 'GL450 actuator rod'. Does not make sense to replace the intake manifold with a new one containing the same plastic actuator rod which will eventually fail. I'm very happy with the results and saved lots of money. No more codes and my GL is running great. Hope this helps.
 

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Thanks for the info, wonder where to get this aluminum rod and if this can be done by an average DIYer, thanks,


Hi guys, new to the forum. Just had work done on my GL450 intake manifold. Instead of replacing the intake manifold, the shop I used fixed the exiting manifold by replacing the plastic actuator rod with an aluminum one. Found out about this by going to youtube and searching for 'GL450 actuator rod'. Does not make sense to replace the intake manifold with a new one containing the same plastic actuator rod which will eventually fail. I'm very happy with the results and saved lots of money. No more codes and my GL is running great. Hope this helps.
 

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Hi guys, new to the forum. Just had work done on my GL450 intake manifold. Instead of replacing the intake manifold, the shop I used fixed the exiting manifold by replacing the plastic actuator rod with an aluminum one. Found out about this by going to youtube and searching for 'GL450 actuator rod'. Does not make sense to replace the intake manifold with a new one containing the same plastic actuator rod which will eventually fail. I'm very happy with the results and saved lots of money. No more codes and my GL is running great. Hope this helps.
Yes. they sell a kit for about $150 that will replace with a metal actuator. They also sell manifolds with the upgraded piece ($250 after you send back old one). Either way, the manifold needs to come out (Labor). It's a personal decision, but I preferred to replace whole thing minimizing the need for any other parts needing to be replaced in the near future, thus requiring the labor cost again plus any cost for parts. I heard the vents can get clogged over time.
 

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Not a hard job at all. It looks daughting at first. The wiring harness keeps every thing in place so well that all of the wires pretty much just lay back were they were before you disconnected them. We did take pics of every thing that was not part of the harness that we disconnected. The hardest thing is keeping the gaskets on the manifold. I used zip ties on each corners and one in the middle to make sure they stayed put. Once we had every thing in place and the bolts in we cut the ties and lifted up the manifold just enough to slid them out. Can be done in a day or a weekend if your slow and take your time. There are plenty of videos on YouTube that show you step by step. This is what the Stealership told us we needed to have done to our GL450
Dealer $8,000 Part cost $370 Eight spark plugs and coils,
2,000 600 Intake manifold
900 99 For four O2 censers
165 53 Oil change
1,300 980 Four Michelin tires and alignment.
165 0 Clearing codes
 

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Just bought a 2012 GL 450 with the same issue. Very common. Instead of the kit, I decided to buy a rebuilt manifold for $300. Has 1 year warranty and upgraded metal part. If I'm paying for the labor, may as well change to whole thing for a little more


Where did you buy the rebuilt manifold? Thanks


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Where did you buy the rebuilt manifold? Thanks


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So I am looking to do this on my 2012 GL450 as it has the code stored but the CEL is not on. I am checking with my extended warranty company to see if it is covered. If not I have been pricing them from the dealer and going with a remanufactured modified manifold. If covered under warranty I will have my independent do it on the clock so they can bank the money from the warranty company. If not I’ll pay my independent off the clock the 2.9 hours it takes to do the job which will amount to 101.50.

As far as pricing goes the dealer wants $1250.00 for the part. I have seen the remanufactured ones on eBay for $450.00 with the core. New OEM from worldpac runs about 600.00 with no core required.

Looking at the work steps it doesn’t seem overly complicated of a task. It seems the seals are the worst part as far as keeping them in place.


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