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I while ago I posted a story about how I bought a 1973 Mercedes Diesel off of e-bay. I finally got it home. Did you realize it cost more to trailer the car than to purchase the car itself?

I have it back home, have fixed the headlights, replaced most of the fuses and I gave it a go to see if I could get it to turn over.

It turns. Boy does it turn, but it won't start. I can sometimes feel it catch but it won't stay.

I've never started a diesel like this before. I move the key to the II position and pull on the starter. Do I also need to pump the accelerator? What's that other knob next to the steering wheel do?

I do have oil, oil pressure, about a 1/4 tank of fuel and good, clean antifreeze in the radiator. I know it's definetely due for an oil change as well as changing out the tranny fuild (it's an auto.) I also want to change the fluid in the diff, too.

What kind of oil should I use in the 2.2L Diesel? Any recommendations on what to put in the diff?

Thanks!
 

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You have to let it glow (pre-glow). This is not a copmlicated proceedure, but hard to ...

You have to let it glow (pre-glow).

This is not a copmlicated proceedure, but hard to explain over the internet.

Turn the key to position II, but when you pull the start knob, don't pull it out all the way, pull it to just before it catches the starter. Watch the little round globe type thing above the steering wheel - it will begin to glow (see picture below - the "globe" I am talking about is circled in red). Let it glow for about 30-45 seconds, then pull it all the way out. You may need to give it a little gas (with the throttle).

Also that black turnable knob to the right side of the steering wheel (right under the speedometer - see the picture below - it's circled in white) is an idle adjustment knob. Turn it counter-clokwise to turn the idle speed up. Do this when you start it. Once it's good and running turn it all the way back clockwise.

Good luck!!
 

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For engine oil I would use a diesel specific oil - the three most common are: Mobil Delvac...

For engine oil I would use a diesel specific oil - the three most common are: Mobil Delvac 1300, Shell Rotella, and Chevron Delo. I think they are all 15w-40, but they are all specificaly designed for diesel engines. I use Shell Rotella, and sometimes Mobil Delvac, but they are all very good. Change the oil and filter every 3,000 miles. Unfortunatley changing the oil on that car is a b*tch, especially if you don't have a lift. The filter is in a canister hanging upside down on the bottom of the engine. When you go to take it out, it makes a mess. You will soon see that the oil from a diesel is disgusting. It turns ink-black within seconds of running the car (so don't be worried when you change the oil and go to check it) and is sticky. This is normal.

For the differential, I would use whatever the factory recomends - don't use that synthetic redline stuff - My MB Mechanic has had several people come back with leaking diffs on older Mercedes from synthetic fluid. Same goes for the tranny.
 

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I while ago I posted a story about how I bought a 1973 Mercedes Diesel off of e-bay. I finally got it home. Did you realize it cost more to trailer the car than to purchase the car itself?

I have it back home, have fixed the headlights, replaced most of the fuses and I gave it a go to see if I could get it to turn over.

It turns. Boy does it turn, but it won't start. I can sometimes feel it catch but it won't stay.

I've never started a diesel like this before. I move the key to the II position and pull on the starter. Do I also need to pump the accelerator? What's that other knob next to the steering wheel do?

I do have oil, oil pressure, about a 1/4 tank of fuel and good, clean antifreeze in the radiator. I know it's definetely due for an oil change as well as changing out the tranny fuild (it's an auto.) I also want to change the fluid in the diff, too.

What kind of oil should I use in the 2.2L Diesel? Any recommendations on what to put in the diff?

Thanks!
As far as starting your car you will probably need to prime your injector pump. Priming the pump is usually accomplished by unscrewing the round knob, locted at the front side of the injection pump, counterclockwise which will release the priming pump handle and then pump it until the bypass valve on the pump opens. Continue pumping until fuel starts to run clear. (This is from the my '85 300DT owners manual and I would think this operation should apply to your car.)
As far as oil is concerned, a good diesel grade oil such as Chevron Delo 400 might be a good suggestion.
My owners manual simply suggests 10W-40 or 10W-50 for year-round use with no regard to a "diesel grade" oil. For areas where temperatures fall below 14F, it suggests to use 5W-20 or 5W-30.
Good luck in starting your 220D!
 

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You shouldn't have to prime the injector pump - this is not a commmon thing for starting t...

You shouldn't have to prime the injector pump - this is not a commmon thing for starting the car. That is usually only done after changing the fuel filters. If the glow plugs work pre-glowing will get that car started.
 

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Re: You shouldn't have to prime the injector pump - this is not a commmon thing for starting t

You shouldn't have to prime the injector pump - this is not a commmon thing for starting the car. That is usually only done after changing the fuel filters. If the glow plugs work pre-glowing will get that car started.
I was assuming that the car had sat for a while and the fuel tank may have been empty at somepoint.
 

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Thats true - especailly if you haven't done the fuel filters - you may want to try it.
...


Thats true - especailly if you haven't done the fuel filters - you may want to try it.
 

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Thats true - especailly if you haven't done the fuel filters - you may want to try it.
...


Thats true - especailly if you haven't done the fuel filters - you may want to try it.
 

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Re: Thats true - especailly if you haven't done the fuel filters - you may want to try it. .

Thats true - especailly if you haven't done the fuel filters - you may want to try it.
If Katz hasn't changed the filters in his 220 it would be a good idea. It sounds like Katz's car may have been sitting for a while so who knows what lurks in the fuel tank. I've heard that moss likes to grow in diesel tanks. Water could also be a possibilty.
 

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Re: Re: Thats true - especailly if you haven't done the fuel filters - you may want to try it.

If Katz hasn't changed the filters in his 220 it would be a good idea. It sounds like Katz's car may have been sitting for a while so who knows what lurks in the fuel tank. I've heard that moss likes to grow in diesel tanks. Water could also be a possibilty.
The car has been sitting for eight years. Two years ago someone did get it to start. There is "new" (non-discolored) antifreeze in the cooling system and just over a quarter-tank of gas. I'm assuming the fuel is only 24 months old and that the filters *may* be as well, especially if the anti-freeze is so clean.

I need to figure out where the fuel filters are to change them [:D]

Letting things pre-glow helped a lot, and it nearly turned over, but I killed the battery pre-glowing it for too long!
 

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You could try tracing the fuel lines which may lead you to the filters. I'm not sure abo...

You could try tracing the fuel lines which may lead you to the filters. I'm not sure about the longevity of diesel fuel. Without a doubt it would make a good degreaser.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
)(@#$%*()@#$%*#$()%*(#

HELP HELP HELP!!!

I got it running but it won't shut-off! Wha...


)(@#$%*()@#$%*#$()%*(#

HELP HELP HELP!!!

I got it running but it won't shut-off! What do I do? I pushed the lever back in and turned off the key and removed it and it's still churning away.

It was smokey, but most of the smoke has cleared off. Sounds like a train [:D]
 

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It ran for a good 45 minutes. Using a paper plate I closed off the air intake (removed t...

It ran for a good 45 minutes. Using a paper plate I closed off the air intake (removed the filter assembly) and that killed the engine.

It's good to get it working. Must find tech manual!
 

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Hehehehe - pardon my chucle. Well at least you got it running! Did you push the pull start...

Hehehehe - pardon my chucle. Well at least you got it running! Did you push the pull start knob ALL the way in? You have to push it back to the dash. The 115 chassis should not run after you push the pull starter in. It is not like in the 123 chassis where vacum is used to turn the car off, the pull starter is direct to the fuel pump. If you pushed it all the way in and it won't shut off, then the linkage to the fuel pump must be loose - this happend to my car - It loosens up over time. Get a tech manual and you will be able to tighten it up. There is an emergency stop lever on the top of the valve cover attached to the throttle linkage. You can use that to shut the car off. You will see it - its a red square that says "STOP". It's good that you let it run for a while. If you can't find that linkage - bring it down to an MB Mechanic to tighten that up.
 

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Re: Hehehehe - pardon my chucle. Well at least you got it running! Did you push the pull start

Hehehehe - pardon my chucle. Well at least you got it running! Did you push the pull start knob ALL the way in? You have to push it back to the dash.
That's exactly what I did. No dice. I turned off the key and removed it. Still was running. I even disconnected the battery and it still ran.

I also had the air in take assembly removed the entire time it was running. Would that cause an issue? I didn't know if the vacuum issues applied to a 220 or not. I looked through the archives on the forum and saw that a vacuum leak could cause this kind of thing.

I did find that there are various cut lines under the hood. They are 1/4" tubing; some of it is for the windshield washer mechanism, but the rest is a mystery. One notable is a "T" off of one of the thicker lines which runs to the brake booster. It's sitting there free, unattached!

For the curious, hi-res pictures of the engine compartment are at:
http://jonworld.com/cgi-bin/album.pl?album=Cars/220D

There is an emergency stop lever on the top of the valve cover attached to the throttle linkage. You can use that to shut the car off. You will see it - its a red square that says "STOP". It's good that you let it run for a while. If you can't find that linkage - bring it down to an MB Mechanic to tighten that up.
I guess I'll have to do that. I wanted to get it running enough to drive it to the BMV and get it registered and titled correctly. It would be silly if I couldn't turn it off.

It's difficult to find that linkage at night, and the stop level. I'll go back through my pictures and look at it tomorrow. It's 22:15 and almost time for bed [;)]

Thank you ALL for your help!
 

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Ok, but like I said before - the 115 chassis doesn't use vacum to shut the car off. It is ...

B.T.W. - Your 220D is a W114/W115 Chassis - same deal with the shuting off (doesn't use vacum).
 

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Ok, but like I said before - the 115 chassis doesn't use vacum to shut the car off. It is ...

Ok, but like I said before - the 115 chassis doesn't use vacum to shut the car off. It is a direct fuel cut to the Injection pump. If you tighten the linkage it should shut off imedately as the fuel supply is cut off from the engine.
 

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Lets see how this looks:

Heres a modified version of the picutre of your engeine with...


Lets see how this looks:

Heres a modified version of the picutre of your engeine with color-cooridinated items of interest.

RED: Main Fuel Filter - it is a small cylinder filter that resides inside that metal housing. Remove the large (22mm) nut circled in white on top of the housing to remove the main fuel filter - watch out for the diesel fuel coming out.

BLUE: Fuel vent screw - this will be used later on when doing the fuel filters to bleed the fuel system

WHITE: The nut on top of the main fuel filter to reomve it from housing. (See RED section)

BRIGHT GREEN: Down where the arrow is pointing you will see the "pre filter" or smaller fuel filter. It should be clear or possibly white. It is a small cylinder type plastic object about the size of a shot glass. It will have a fuel line entering on one end and exiting on the other (striaght through).

BLACK: The Hand primer pump that our fellow BenzWorld member was refering to before. You turn that counter-clockwise to loosen it and then begin to pump. untill fuel comes out.

DARK GREEN: The emergency shut off should be somewhere on that throttle linkage. You may have to clean it off to see it. If it's not there or you can't see it, just pull the linkage down to shut the car off.

I hope we can see all that I have described in this!
 

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Engine Annotated

You're the coolest person ever. THANK YOU! I owe you a brewski or three!

[:)][:)][:)]

I'll muck with the linkage in a bit. I have two other problems. I need to get the wheels off to replace the tires. I took out the lug-bolts but they won't budge. Do I need a slide hammer or something?

Also, in the trunk, one of the tail-lights is disconnected. There should be a connector but there isn't; just metal caps soldered to wires that pop onto metal tabs. There are six of them, two rows of three. I'm sure once I get a tech manual I'll know which go where.

Thanks again!
 

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I would have to see a picture of the lights. It doesn't sound right, however. Get a tech m...

I would have to see a picture of the lights. It doesn't sound right, however. Get a tech manual - they are avaliable either on Ebay (search: Mercedes 114, Mercedes 115) or at: www.samstagsales.com . I would get one etiher way.

As far as the lug nuts go - use a de-rust solvent - ex. WD40, or similar. Spray it on each of the nuts, let it soak in for about 5 mins and they attack them with a tire Iron.

Good Luck!
 
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