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Discussion Starter #1
I have a replacement valve block coming next week and I want to be sure I can get the job done on my driveway.

I know all four corners have to be raised however I have to improvise because my driveway is inclined and that would get sketchy. So I was thinking, is it acceptable to get the job done by getting the rear tires up on my race ramps and jacking the front of the car up with a jack and jack stands? That way when the air escapes during the swap, the rear will squat but won't be too low to the ground and the front will be up as required. Is this acceptable? Or do the shocks actually have to be extended all the way out? If that's the case I have to find a way to raise the car in my driveway so that it's not inclined. I have done it with other cars before but they weren't as heavy as this one. Nobody will be going under the car but still have to be safe.

The other option is get as much of the car as much as humanly possible in my single car garage, and have the front facing out where I'll be working, but that will be extremely tight so I'd like to avoid that. In that case I can get all 4 corners up if I jack from the front/rear.

What do you guys think? Thanks.
 

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W124 Moderator
86 190E 2.3L 16V, 2 95 320TE's, 02 S500
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Can you park in the street for a couple of hrs to get the job done?

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Discussion Starter #3
Can you park in the street for a couple of hrs to get the job done?

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Possibly but even my street has an incline, it would tilt the car sideways rather than front to back.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
"Nobody will be going under the car but still have to be safe. "

You can't change the valve block without getting deep into the wheel well.
Right, but I could pull the bumper to help myself if need be. Based on what I've seen in the diagrams it's not hard to get to if you pull the bumper off as well, unless I'm mistaken. But nobody will be directly underneath the car for any extended amount of time is what I'm getting at.

Either way, it's not like I'll be leaving it hanging on a hydraulic jack without jack stands. One way or another all 4 corners will be supported. I'm just curious if it will be damaging in some way to have the rear wheels on ramps where there's weight on them, vs jack stands in which case there will not be weight on them.
 

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Hi,

Why on earth do you need all Wheels off the ground ??

If I were doing that job on a driveway rather than a lift, I would just raise the right front high with a Jack, safely support, then go in through the Wheel-arch Liner.

When done, leave Wheel-arch-liner off, pop the Wheel on with 2 bolts, drop the car on ground, start it up and let it settle to the correct height, run the Suspension up and down with the Height Switch, then turn steering full lock left and spray leak test, before switching off, then jack up, remove Wheel and refit the Wheel-arch liner ;) .........

"Job's a good un" ;)

HTH,
 

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2004 S55 , 2005 S55 , 2004 S430
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Front or rear? I've done both at seperate times, just use Jack stands on the body let suspension hang swap block and start car and build pressure before setting weight on wheels, system will bleed itself just be sure to keep fittings clean and get electrical connectors plugged in correct locations, they are color coded to the solenoids and dont get hydraulic oil in the connectors or clean them out with carb spray if you do. Its maybe an hour long job in driveway. Get a 17mm crows foot line wrench for the some of the hydraulic lines makes it easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Good advice ;) However I think he is doing an Airmatic Car ;)
Airmatic indeed. I got the job done today with the valve block from eBay that I ordered from a donor FL car. Well I think I either did something incorrectly, or the part is just no good because now the entire car slooooooowly starts to droop down instead of the issue I had before with just the rear passenger side drooping when cold. So now on Tuesday I have to tear it all back apart and basically redo it.

Here's what I did, feel free to correct me, and I did get the car off the ground completely on jack stands. I got it so the wheels were off the ground JUUUUST enough not to touch.

1. Remove compressor.
2. Remove valve block and lines, air whooshed out of each line and suddenly stopped at a point, a good sign I believe. The reservoir line whooshed all the way out though.
3. Cleaned the threads on the replacement valve block to the best of my ability.
4. Broke a bolt, as is tradition, no big deal though.
5. Reattached air lines in their correct spots on the replacement block.
6. Hook up and mount compressor.
7. Cleared faults while car was up via lock to lock turn.
8. Began lowering car and it took 3 corners coming down for the compressor to kick on. I was getting ready to remove the last jack stand and it finally started rising. No corner sunk too low upon lowering, which was surprising to me.

Rise function worked, though the rear was kind of slow. Drove around for 5 minutes, all looked good. I go out, hang out with some friends for approximately 5 hours. Come outside and see all 4 corners have sunk to where the fender was just above the top of the tire. Start the car, rises back up as it should, and is now parked outside to see how low it sinks tomorrow.

I'm planning on basically redoing everything on Tuesday. Possibly even putting back the original valve block. Does it sound like I missed anything? Was I supposed to Teflon tape the threads on the compression fittings for the air lines? The replacement block had them, but when I took the ones off mine they did not have any sort of sealant. I reused mine because they were cleaner, and had metal (c-clips?) on the air hoses vs the plastic ones on the replacement block.

It's not a hard task, but frustrating because it's now worse. ?

Quick Edit: I did read the shop PDFs and did not see anything about sealing the compression fittings.
 

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Hi,

You need to leak test the fittings with Soapy Water in a sprayer bottle first, the fittings have O Rings inside which can leak after being disturbed if it's not that then you likely got a dud VB or some dirt got in and it's sticking ;)

Fittings can be bought separately.

HTH,
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hi,

You need to leak test the fittings with Soapy Water in a sprayer bottle first, the fittings have O Rings inside which can leak after being disturbed if it's not that then you likely got a dud VB or some dirt got in and it's sticking ;)

Fittings can be bought separately.

HTH,
Looks like that's all I'll be able to do tomorrow, forecast shows a metric ton of snow so it will have to survive the week until it clears out. Also as I suspected, all 4 corners were down this morning. I'll report back with findings.
 

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I would see if either of your valve blocks are rebuildable - that is, if they can be disassembled. If so, I would strip the block down, check everything, clean everything, and install new O-rings.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hey guys, reporting back a little late. I'm having a mechanic replace the valve block with a brand new one from Mercedes. The timing with this virus thing going on has been less than ideal, but he will be swapping it for me once I am able to actually get it to his shop. I took it there once to confirm, and he determined that the replacement valve block was letting air out of the compressor line (possibly my fault).

Can't wait to get it over there because it's really annoying waiting for the car to raise up every morning after it let's all the air out.
 
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