Gen 2 US to Gen 2 Euro 560 Swap
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Personally, I've searched numerous threads on this topic, to kind of 'prep' myself should the day I get into your current position, but this is what I've deduced on what has to be switched.
All the accessories should be fine, like A/C compressor, SLS, etc.
I believe you need the distributor, the engine and accompanying harness, I believe the transmission is slightly different with first gear ratio, so I believe you want to take the trans and the trans module as well. Not sure if those are optional or not.
You'll want the KE Jetronic control box (ECU) which is behind the carpeted panel adjacent to the passenger fender. it slides towards the seat to get it off. Big black box, can't miss it (ballpark of 24cm x 20cm x 6cm? Sort of a waffle pattern on it). Well, unless you're looking in my car where it is no longer installed due to it being broked
Maybe the idle control relay thats under the false passenger footwell too.
Aside from that, I'll leave it to the experts who neglected to post any nuances I may have missed
-Carlen
All the accessories should be fine, like A/C compressor, SLS, etc.
I believe you need the distributor, the engine and accompanying harness, I believe the transmission is slightly different with first gear ratio, so I believe you want to take the trans and the trans module as well. Not sure if those are optional or not.
You'll want the KE Jetronic control box (ECU) which is behind the carpeted panel adjacent to the passenger fender. it slides towards the seat to get it off. Big black box, can't miss it (ballpark of 24cm x 20cm x 6cm? Sort of a waffle pattern on it). Well, unless you're looking in my car where it is no longer installed due to it being broked
Maybe the idle control relay thats under the false passenger footwell too.Aside from that, I'll leave it to the experts who neglected to post any nuances I may have missed
-Carlen
You don't need to swap anything. The computer doesn't know what engine it is running - it has no "awareness". If you are satisfied with whatever year and refinements are in the electronics that are in the destination car then leave them. The easiest of the easiest is to use a FD from an early Euro. No computer at all. It will run an engine all by itself on an engine stand with no car in sight. All you need is fuel pressure and spark.
I had read somewhere that the harnesses are the same on all Gen 2's, both US and Euro. Is this not correct? Also, I am pretty sure the computers and EZL need to be switched not because of "awareness" but because of the ignition advance and mapping that the Euro electronics have. If I were to use the US spec ECU and EZL I would be loosing out on potential HP no?
I am shortly about to undertake this switch in real life within the next 1-2 weeks
The euro 560 engine is ready and the present engine will be the one out of my car the factory US spec motor that came with it and is still running well but likely has a bad head gasket now.
The shop that will be selected for the installation will be chosen by the end of next week (two are now being contemplated, one at each end of California) and bids for transportation of the car and replacement euro engine are being reviewed right now.
Of particular interest is getting the completed project to be able to pass California emissions tests as the car is under 25 years old.
I believe a 4 in EZL will be required but no little more.
The replacement engine is an ECE 300 hp unit.
The euro 560 engine is ready and the present engine will be the one out of my car the factory US spec motor that came with it and is still running well but likely has a bad head gasket now.
The shop that will be selected for the installation will be chosen by the end of next week (two are now being contemplated, one at each end of California) and bids for transportation of the car and replacement euro engine are being reviewed right now.
Of particular interest is getting the completed project to be able to pass California emissions tests as the car is under 25 years old.
I believe a 4 in EZL will be required but no little more.
The replacement engine is an ECE 300 hp unit.
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original post - If you are satisfied with whatever year and refinements are in the electronics that are in the destination car then leave them.
Most of the HP comes from engine mechanicals like the exhaust manifolds and cylinder heads.
Personally I would just plug the engine into the US electronics and have it smog tested. THEN I would worry about swapping in the Euro boxes. It would be interesting to see which is cleaner. Then, an obvious option is to swap back to the US units whenever you need a smog test.
Getting rid of the cat will give instant extra power and performance you can feel right away without doing anything else..
That is a good thing to do if you can do it legally
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