[drivbiwire]

Every car manufacturer out there has its own oil grease ETC.Basically saying if you don't use our recommended oil the car won't run Which i find very funny.I have always used aftermarket heavier oils on my MBZ and never had seal blow by or material shavings from poor viscosity and lubrication.Dealer said i should use w0-40 oil in my engine have you seen what happens to it when engine reaches operational temperatures.It turns in to water how do u expect engine to be properly lubricated with an oil like that.Im not saying ticker the better but if you are not living in alaska where temperatures are -50c please stay away from water like oils

You're Clueless....

The 0w40 offers the same protection as a 15w40.

However a 15w40 CANNOT protect as well as a 0w40 especially in a cold climate.

Each number has its own meaning in respect to how the oil will flow and ultimately protect.

For most engines made by Mercedes a 5w40 offers the best all around protection. The 0w40 is an ideal oil for those that live in areas with a wide range of temperatures.

The 0w40 MB229.5 will continute to protect at temperatures as high as +400F where a conventional 15w40 will fail at around +265F.

A 15w40 will not flow at all in the sub-zero conditions where the 0w40 will continue down to -50. This translates into faster oil pressure and quicker protection to the motor.

When given a choice, a 0w40 wins everytime.

 

[Bruce24]

I never said 15-40W i did use that in my 1988 300E where it helped my oil pressure stay up.While using 10-30W pressure will drop to 0.5 which is on border line.They can operate down to 0.2 anything under engine might seize up.i am using 10-40W mobil 1 full syntech in my E500 no problems .To bad new MBZ doesn't have oil pressure gauge which would give u a clue which weight to use depending where you live.All i am saying don't bother with Mercedes spec oils buy the same weight from like Mobil 1 Castrol or Amsoil.A company that is dedicated making one product is better then company making multiple products. Just my opinion take it how u want it

 

[JoeVal]

Which is better, a smattering of ignorance or a smattering of knowledge? Either works well as long as the neuron family is open to rationalize any concept new, unclear, or shot from the heap.

Should Mechanics would marry so easily the Physics of mechanisms with the Chemistry of lubrication as to make a straight line, they would not be two disciplines devoted to two entirely different fields, and room for advancement and progress in lubricants would be at practically a stand still since everything would be so rigid and straight forward.

We complain loudly when we hit an expensive repair (which often can be prevented) but we discuss with fervor a few coins shortcuts in the least expensive of parts in relation to their roles (e.g.: oils, greases, refrigerants, filters, belts, hoses, and all the pile of parts that make car maintenance a true need in direct proportion to the complexity and gizmos of the vehicle). What I do not see is anybody opposed or criticizing the manufacturers specs or recommendations, questioning the manufacturer, SAE, API, ACEA, DIN or even the dealer for what they consider arbitrary specs.

Everybody on this thread is right, protected by the right to be wrong which is inalienable and sacred under our form of government. Also, each can do whatever he pleases with his vehicles. But after entering in a discussion, respect costumes indicate that repetition for lack of reading the entire participation posted should not be accepted. It is a nice subject, the arguments have become passionate, nevertheless why not bring to a little higher level?

We all have Mercedes, so MB specs would conform The Bible for us. Everything else is anecdotal and isolated to a particular incident. That is not how general rules are made, they require consensus. Meanwhile, go 85W90 specially formulated by Fuchs and whoever else gets listed on Sheet 235.7.

 

[eurospec380se]

I filled using Red Line Full Synthetic 75W-90. And yes 14mm does both plugs, thank you very much. funny thing is supposed to take 1.3L , was full to start. Took almost the entire 2L to fill. Are there optional diffs that could require the xtra lube? No leaks.

 

[Noodles]

Which W211 do you have? The rear diffs are all the same on the 2 wheel drive models
as far as capacity, or so it says on the MB service DVD.

 

[eurospec380se]

genI w126 380se

 

[Noodles]

Well I have real head banger here. I checked the fluid specs for a US spec car and
it said 1.3 liters. I wonder if the euro spec got a different differential.

 

[eurospec380se]

what I said

 

[eurospec380se]

I have the euro manual, part number126 584 90 96, and it also says 1.3L. So where does the rest of the fluid go?

 

[isstay]

Well I have real head banger here. I checked the fluid specs for a US spec car and
it said 1.3 liters. I wonder if the euro spec got a different differential.

Some of them take 1.6L. Depend which gear you have 2.62 or 3.07.

 

[eurospec380se]

1.6 would be closer to what I put in. I was guesstimating 1.75

 

[Noodles]

That looks like an additive.

You should just be able to use the MB 85w90 with no problems.

 

[siday99]

Gear oils have different API ratings, GL3, GL4 GL5 for example.

The required specs in this instance are a GL5 for the diff. The MB 85w90 is GL5 spec and so are some other branded synthetic 75w90 (such as Castrol Syntrax Universal)

The 75w90 viscosity is ok to use as long at it is GL5 specs - in fact the 75w rating will give better fuel efficiency than the 85w, that is why more manufacturers are moving to this viscosity these days as it helps to boost the MPG figures (very slightly)

By the way MB has had relations with different oil companies over the years, in the UK they are currently in bed with Shell. MB oil isn't made by MB it is made by whoever is 'in bed' with them at the time and yes they do tend to recommend their own oil and it is for their own profits. You can use ANY brand of oil as long as it meets the technical specifications......

Hope this helps folks...........

 

[Pete '06 E320 CDI]

Reviving this old thread.. It looks like MB moved the goal posts again by listing 75W85 SAE Grade oil as per their latest revision to the 235.7 spec dated 05/09/11. As the Mobil 1 LS 75W90 fully synthetic fluid viscosity range is 75W-90 (and rated as GL-5), would you say that it is now close enough to the revised 235.7 spec to be acceptable for use as a substitute?

 

[Noodles]

No, the diff only holds less than $15 worth fluid.
Many techs and dealers still stick to the 85w90. It is the best protection for the gears.

 

[isstay]

No, the diff only holds less than $15 worth fluid.
Many techs and dealers still stick to the 85w90. It is the best protection for the gears.

Yes, if you use Mobil1 or Valvoline (that what dealer offer me when i ask for diff. fluid) you still will spend 20$. If you get the original Fuchs fluid you will spend between 120 and 140$ for two bottles, because one isn't enough for change.

 

[Noodles]

Odd, I got two bottles of the MB 85w90 for $18 apiece with my discount at the dealer.
It has gone up to $30 list. $120 is a bit on the high side. Why is the Fuchs so much more?

 

[isstay]

I am talking about fully synthetic Fuchs 75W85 what should be in all differentials since 01.11.2001. Look at post #34 and link in post #37.

 

[Noodles]

I see the confusion. I used the A001 989 17 03 10 in the W211 and the W163,
It is in the MB chart from post 33. It still is approved for use.
It is not even in the MB chart in post 34.
I am familiar with MB's revision of the spec. I just wanted an approved spec that could be had
easily. Finding Titan here with shipping is an insane proposition.

 

[Pete '06 E320 CDI]

Bottom line, the MB fluid they still sell does not meet their spec anymore... The other 2 approved fluids are only available in Europe. The Mobil 1 properties appear to be pretty close to the Fuchs Titan, and it's available locally.