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1982 300D Turbo Diesel - 2006 VW Jetta TDI Turbo Diesel
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
All,

1982 300D Turbo. There is a fuel leak at the injection pump where the hard fuel line bolts down to the pump. It is only leaking from one of them and it isn't leaking too much. It is the line that is closest to the firewall. On each line where it bolts down, there appears to be a small rectangular gasket underneath, can those gaskets be purchased somewhere? Also, does anyone know the torque spec on those bolts?

Help is much apprecaited.
 

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You mean a ROUND copper crush washer. There are two on each banjo bolt, now if you are reffering to the delivery valve that is also a round crush washer. And I do seriously hope you did NOT remove the two nuts on each side, you disturbed its calibration if you did.
 

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1982 300D Turbo Diesel - 2006 VW Jetta TDI Turbo Diesel
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Where the hard lines run from the IP to the engine. Each line is connected to the pump with two bolts (12mm IIRC). That is where the leak is.

It looks like there is a gasket under each of the fittings and is shaped like a rectangle. I just need to figure out what parts I need to fix this problem.
 

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no-blue-screen said:
Where the hard lines run from the IP to the engine. Each line is connected to the pump with two bolts (12mm IIRC). That is where the leak is.
do NOT disturb those two bolts....

you unscrew the delivery valve housing , think it was a 15mm (but might be wrong) that is what the hardline actually screws down onto, inside there is a spring, and a loose part inside which is the delivery valve...at the bottom of that hole is a copper crush washer...you need to replace that...and replace. Being carefull to not overtorque or you WILL crack the delivery valve face. Trust me there as I did it last year by accident.

If you loosen the two nuts you will loose the delivery timing for that cylinder and you will not get it right again without a calibration bench.
 

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1982 300D Turbo Diesel - 2006 VW Jetta TDI Turbo Diesel
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Excellent info. Two more questions:

1) Where can I get the washer that needs to be replaced?

2) What is the torque spec for that bolt?

Thanks.
 

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on the delivery valves.. do one at a time if thats what your doing.. notice the rectangle pieces.. or shims as they are known.. keep the top one where it should go and the bottome each one has a different thickness.. if you so happen to loose one.. your screwed.. but i have 10 extra's but be careful.. also

what fuel station are you getting your diesel at? might be an ULSD problem
 

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1982 300D Turbo Diesel - 2006 VW Jetta TDI Turbo Diesel
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Getting fuel at the local BP station and use a bottle of Stanadyne on each fill.

Where can I order these delivery valvle washers online? I can't seem to find them. I will be ordering a bunch of stuff very near future to overhaul the cooling system.

I have to purchase:

Water pump, fan clutch, new 9 blade fan, thermostat kit

The fan looks very old and wabbly, so I figured I would replace everything while I was in there.

You help is greatly apprecaited.
 

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1982 300D Turbo Diesel - 2006 VW Jetta TDI Turbo Diesel
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Just want to clarify

So I don't want to remove the two 12mm nuts that are holding down each of the injector lines to the IP? I don't see any 15mm bolt to remove the top of the housing. The shims that you speak of are actually under the rectangular shaped piece that is secured to the IP with two 12mm nuts. I want to try and fix this Diesel leak tomorrow, but I don't want to fudge something up. Could you guys clarify for me one more time the process? Also, do you know if there is a write-up somewhere on how to replace these washers? Thanks again for all your help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Update

THE PROBLEM STILL REMAINS:

Well, I removed the fuel deliver valve and cleaned it. There don't appear to be any washers in place on any of them. Put everything back together and degreased the area. It appears I have two leaks.

LEAK 1: Minute Diesel fuel leak around the base of the fuel deliver valve (where the threads are)

LEAK 2: Oil leak around where the shims are. Appears to be coming up from the injector pump. Not horribly bad, but definately motor oil seeping out and it appears that was the problem all along and the DF leak was just a side effect and very very small.

Question is, what do I do at this point. If I remove those two 13mm bolts, I will have to take the car somewhere to have the injection timing redone correct? Does this oil leak mean the IP is going bad?

See picture:

 

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Take a look between the nuts I said never to touch. when you unscrew the delivery valve cover, remove the delivery valve adn the spring from the hole...at the bottom of that hole is where the crush washer is...just below the fuel. I can see the fuel was leaking up through the threads in the photo.

That was the fuel...

Now the oil....lets say there is no way you can take that out ...replace any gasket and put it back in precisely the same position....that will shift in a 2 deminsional plane...and is impossible to set right when its off a calibration bench.


Count on between $300-850 to recalibrate a IP at a bosche shop. Thats why I said don't play with it. Doesn't mean its going bad...but I see someone has already removed at least one of thes 13mm nuts...as the tell-tale paint is gone.

if is a minor seapage..I say don't sweat it....fix the delivery valve seal.....consider replacing your old style primer pump....and find out where that fuel thats on it is leaking from...it should be dry....unless thats water.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
I did that. Three pieces came out and there is nothing else in that hole. spring came out, and then in the hole where the fuel is, there is a small cylinder with a hole in the middle and a small nipple looking piece that sits in th middle. I look in the haynes manual and it doesn't show any other parts that should be coming out of that hole. Also, the oil leak appears to be the bigger issue and it isn't coming from the FDV, it appears to be coming from the area around that shim. I don't mean to sound stupid, but I just don't know the proper terms for all these parts. I also got a diagram from the MB dealer, it shows some type of washer that is supposed to go underneath of all the parts I just described to you, but they don't have it in stock and I can't find it anywhere online. So you are saying it fits over top of the cylinder shaped part with the nipple?

$350-800 sounds just about as much as buying a rebuilt IP...so I am not going to worry about the oil unless it becomes a serious problem and at that point will probably just replace the IP with a rebuilt one.

BTW...in the white plastic piece on the primer pump that is water, it is from recently degreasing that area.

I really apprecaite your help by the way.
 

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well, there should be a copper crush washer in the very bottom of that hole...the larger item you pulled out seats on it...its not easy to see and is not very wide at all. its not much wider than the lead in your pencil, not quite as wide as the other crush washers on the banjo bolts. Like you said there was three items that came out. THe piston shapped piece seals on that crush washer...then there is the piece that dropps through the center of that and sort of holds the spring...and on top of that is the larger cover that screws down on top of it.

I am assuming you just didn't see it because it would be running very poorly if it was missing.


so into the hole in this order....crush washer..

larger piston shapped part smooth machined side down

pin or nipple type part next...

then spring...

then cover...

Odd the dealer can't get it...Have you tried calling HBL Mercedes or American Service center? Its on the other side of DC from you but they might be able to help...otherwise check your Private message bucket...I named three options for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I saw something in the bottom of the hole, but it didn't seem to move at all and I didn't want to tug at it in fear of breaking something. It almost looked like a permanent part of the hole. The car runs fine when warmed up, althought it seems to run a little rough when cold starting. Smoke is minimal and non-existant when warm (unless under WOT).
 

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thats likely the delivery valve seal (crush washer) you likely have a deep indentation in it preventing it from sealing completely as it should. If you hooked it with a fingernail it will lift out...but no reason to do so untill you have a replacement moving it now will likely make it worse as it will change the orientation of where the parts mate, and like I said its likely dimpled at this point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Okay, so it is probably going to be hard to get out of there. I will order a couple of them just in case the others start leaking. It was hell to break it loose when I took it off so whoever put it in probably overtorqued it or put it in wrong....unless it was just siezed in there.

Again I really really apprecaite all your help on this.
 
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