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2006 E320 CDI
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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone know the part numbers of the two fuel hoses that run under the thermostat? The bottom one on my 2005 CDI is super brittle. The thermostat has been removed in the photo. That is how I found out is is brittle as it crackled when I moved it. Odd the the upper still feels supple, but I'll replace both. (Looks like I've got to take the radiator fan out to be able to remove the hose clamps. My hose clamp pliers aren't going to get in there otherwise.)

@konigstiger ?

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97 SL500, 98 E320 Wagon, 2002 ML500 - former W108/W112/W114/W123/W124/W126/W140/W220
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Just ordered the four hoses used in the engine compartment from the pump to the filter and supply lines:

648-070-12-81
648-070-10-81
648-070-11-81
648-078-07-81

You need the proper clamps and the tool (pliers) to remove/install them, too. All four hoses were around $70 from the dealer (I have a wholesale account, so yours will probably cost more.)
 

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2005 E320 CDI, 2010 E350 4MATIC
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I just replaced the hoses in my 2005. Same condition, the lower hose was so brittle if broke in my hand. The reason I looked is I was noticing a strong diesel fuel smell when I stopped the vehicle. I replaced a few of the clamps which i purchased from a local MB dealer. The parts counter said this is a common issue with the Sprinter diesels and I dodged a bullet catching it early. They have seen many cases where there were gallons of raw fuel pumped on the engine.

Defiantly agree with LWB250 on the tools. I ordered a Knipex 85 51 250 C hose clamp pliers. It is great for getting in tight spaces and odd angles. Another tip is remove the upper radiator support so the radiator can pivot forward. Makes getting to the pump bracket bolts and clamps much easier.

Bad/Good news is I found the start of Black Death on my rear most cylinder. It is very early so no damage done. The leak is currently so minor you have to put your ear next to the injector to hear it. Ordered a injector slide hammer just in-case. Not driving the vehicle until I get the injector fixed.
 

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Good suggestion on the radiator support. I’ll try that when I replace mine in the next week or two.

The PO had run regular domestic sized flexible hose. Nasty.
 

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2006 E320 CDI
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Discussion Starter #5
You need the proper clamps and the tool (pliers) to remove/install them, too. All four hoses were around $70 from the dealer (I have a wholesale account, so yours will probably cost more.)
Thanks for the part numbers. The old clamps are in fine shape. I already have the special pliers. Yep, it was about $87 from the dealer. Could have gotten them a bit cheaper from Pelican, but not that much cheaper and I wanted them right away.
 

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My dealer had them in stock, which tells me they must be common failure items.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Definitely agree with LWB250 on the tools. I ordered a Knipex 85 51 250 C hose clamp pliers. It is great for getting in tight spaces and odd angles. Another tip is remove the upper radiator support so the radiator can pivot forward. Makes getting to the pump bracket bolts and clamps much easier.
Ouch. Pricey pliers. What size do you recommend? This job only requires the 7.5" version. I'd imagine that will do most jobs.

I already own these. I measured from the front of the radiator to the clamps and my pliers are exactly 1" too long. Grr.

How does the radiator pivot forward? There are bars in front of the radiator and bracketry to both sides keeping it from moving in a forward direction at least by very much. Seems like I'd have to remove quite a bit to move or pivot the radiator forward by much. Maybe I'm wrong. Of course it takes maybe 15 minutes to get the radiator fan out, so that the biggest room gain, but still not enough to clean my straight handle hose clips. I guess it comes down to whether I want to spend the $85 or screw around with the radiator.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I found another hose clamp pliers that is half the price. Doesn't look as well made, but for occasional home garage mechanic use, this may be fine. However, I said screw it and ordered the Knipex.

 

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The top of the radiator moved about 1.5". That was enough to get my hand in front of the bracket to start the screws and use the pliers. The only coolant hose I removed was the small one going to the overflow tank. I didn't remove the thermostat or oil filter. When connecting the back hose to the fuel rail I removed the banjo bolt to gain access to the hose clamp.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
...The only coolant hose I removed was the small one going to the overflow tank. I didn't remove the thermostat or oil filter...
The thermostat and oil filter are removed in the photo because I was replacing the thermostat. That is how I found out the fuel hoses were brittle... a byproduct of the thermostat replacement. I didn't remove the thermostat to get to the hoses, which as you realize, would be unnecessary.
 

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The top of the radiator moved about 1.5". That was enough to get my hand in front of the bracket to start the screws and use the pliers. The only coolant hose I removed was the small one going to the overflow tank. I didn't remove the thermostat or oil filter. When connecting the back hose to the fuel rail I removed the banjo bolt to gain access to the hose clamp.
The key here is that it sounds like he is using generic screw clamps rather than the correct "Clic-R" hose clamps.

Dan
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The key here is that it sounds like he is using generic screw clamps rather than the correct "Clic-R" hose clamps.

Dan
You know, I bought the right Knipex tool, but now I've had to pull and replace the radiator, so I had plenty of room to use my old straight tool. Well, what man doesn't like new tools anyway?
 
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