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03 E320, 83 300DT
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Discussion Starter #1
I replaced the main fuel filter this weekend and have had leakage ever since.
The PO used an aluminum washer on the hollow bolt. I replaced it with a copper washer from the dealer. I also got a new O ring that goes on the hollow bolt (about 1/3 of the way up from the other end of the bolt)
I've found that with more tightening the leak would be less, but I'm worried about cracking the housing if I tighten it any more.
Does anyone have any info on the torque for the hollow bolt? How much can you tighten this thing without causing some damage?
Thanks.
David
83 300DT
 
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ok, i went through this on BOTH our cars, so follow this exactly, otherwise the leak will never stop.

first of all, thanks to chrysler, u now can only get crappy copper rings at the dealer. damm, oh well. bastards.

your SCREW where the filter mounts on is bad. it has 1 or 2 seal rings on it, but they are not the problem....something with the metal and old age. your only hope is to go to the dealer, order the new hollow screw, and the 1 or 2 rubber rings(depending on year), and one MB rated crap copper ring. they simply dont have alu any more, even though thats what the engineers intended u to use.....DAMM YOU CHRYSLER!!!!! (i know ur watching ineon...)

u will have to stretch the new ring(s) over the bolt to the obvious slot where they go...and mount the new screw.....ur leak is over with. just replacing the ring(s) and copper/alu ring wont do it...iv been through this already, u can believe me.

they should all cost around 25 bucks at the stealer...whups did i say that? i meant the dealer. it may have a slight seep after installing, this is caus the copper isnt quite crushed down yet. tighten further with the motor at idle if this happens wiping away to check for leaks. when it stops, ur done.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the prompt reply.
With the new screw and copper washer + O ring, should I just keep on turning until the leak is gone?
 
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pretty much. of course dont "overdo it", but the rubber on the fuel filter crushes a bunch, so its hard to do that. just dont go and take a breaker bar and a socket and pry with ur weight against the wall or something similarly excessive, and u'll be fine. (u wont have to, caus the leak will stop. usually, tighten the filter by hand, when it wont go anymore, wrench the bolt 1/2 to a whole turn, maybe slightly more, depnding if ur seeping or not.) enjoy!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks.
(Sounds like I don't need to line up the outlet hole on the hollow bolt with union screw leading to the fuel injector?)
 
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djohnson64 - 4/7/2005 2:29 AM

Thanks.
(Sounds like I don't need to line up the outlet hole on the hollow bolt with union screw leading to the fuel injector?)
nope. the chanber is larger than the bolt diameter, it flows always. will turn when u torque the bolt anyways, does not matter.

have a wonderful afternoon...

ineon gets his car half crushed from the rear as i ram him from behind with us spec "battering rams" instead of normal bumpers......
 
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.......but th insurance check he collects does him no good, as he is already a paraplegic due to the whiplash he sustains under the HUGE impact...........
 

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2008 PT, 1998 neon--1965 VW 1200
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hey, itll just make the check bigger[8D]

* shows off his new 600CL[:p]

this is hijacking a thread isnt it? sorry!
 
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ha ha ha. yeah it sure is, somehow. whatever happened to the fuel filter assembly, i assume he had to "special order" the part from benz, and he hasnt gotten it yet?
 

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I’m sorry – I’m not understanding this thread at all…

To the thread author –

1. Owning a 123 means one NEVER goes to the stealer.
2. Get a quality OEM filter like Knecht from an online store – it will have all the proper washers
3. After spinning on the filter, I just hand tighten the bolt on top of the mount, making sure it’s snug – I’ve never had any leaks or problems.

What kind of filter did you use?
 
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