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1967 230s 4sp 1985 380SEL auto
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Discussion Starter #1
Hello from Perth Western Australia. This is my first post so I would like to thank you for the help I have gained from this site, that has got me this far with my latest project.
I have acquired a 380SEL that, while the body and mechanicals seem to be in generally vg condition, the engine has not been started for many years. From what I have learned, it may be at least 5 years, perhaps quite a bit more. The car seems too good to just scrap, so I would like to get it started and see how it goes.
The starter relay is cactus, but I think I can fix it, thanks to the board.:thumbsup:
The fuel pump is also a no go, but I am willing to spend a few dollars to stick one in to see if I can start her.
The air flow plate was jammed, due to the piston in the fuel distributor being frozen, so I took out the distributor and stripped it and managed to free up the piston. I put it back together, and then noticed something when I looked at this picture that I have shamelessly stolen from jhodj5ck.



This is the top half of the fuel distributor, (you pull them apart upside down so all the bits don't fall out), showing on the left lower, the white plastic cap that sits against the diaphragm, to its right, the steel conical bit (I'm trying to keep this non technical), that must be sitting on the spring, shown to the right.
Here are the 3 components.



No offence to jonathon, but can anybody confirm the order that these should go, preferably with documentation. My unit had the steel conical bit at the bottom, followed by the spring, with the white plastic unit on top of the spring.
I have been told that this car was sent to a diesel mechanic for repair, where it sat for more than a year, and he may have pulled it apart and assembled it incorrectly, so I am open to correction.

Sorry about the long post, but this may help others. The stripping and rebuilding of the fuel distributor was not that difficult for what I consider to be a medium home mechanic, but then I don't offer a warranty.:)
 

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1967 230s 4sp 1985 380SEL auto
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Discussion Starter #3
If you read some of the other threads on fuel distributors, you will find that Bosch do not sell kits for these.
I had nothing to lose though, as the piston was seized and I just want to get the car running as cheaply as possible in order to see if it worth re licensing.
Still no answer on the components position from the board?
 

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Depends on the day!
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that's how they go...I took the picture as I did just to show how it came apart/goes together.

I re-installed later on and it worked fine.

Jonathan
 

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1967 230s 4sp 1985 380SEL auto
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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks Jonathon. So there is a mystery, as someone has had mine apart and reassembled it incorrectly.
 

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CH4S Admin , Outstanding Contributor
1985 500SEC, 1991 190E 2.6.
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40,143 Posts
07.3-001 - Functional description of mechanically controlled gasoline injection system with airflow

This pdf has a detailed fuel distributor diagram. PM me with email address, and i'll attach.
The file is too big to down load here, you probably should check the Russian MB site as well.
The link is in the 'Welcome to the Forum' tutorial sticky.
Cheers
 

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CH4S Admin , Outstanding Contributor
1985 500SEC, 1991 190E 2.6.
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40,143 Posts
If you read some of the other threads on fuel distributors, you will find that Bosch do not sell kits for these.
I had nothing to lose though, as the piston was seized and I just want to get the car running as cheaply as possible in order to see if it worth re licensing.
Still no answer on the components position from the board?
Check your email.
Cheers
 

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1967 230s 4sp 1985 380SEL auto
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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
I was still not convinced that those cones should go on top of the springs as they just don't sit well, and wear marks made me think that they should go in the bottom of the wells. It is the job of the screws that are angled into the chamber to set the pressure differential between the lower and upper parts of the fuel distributor.
A call to my corner k jetronic fuel distributor rebuilder confirmed that the cones go in the bottom, springs on top, and white plastic caps on top of the springs. That is how they are assembled, upside down, and after completion of assembley they go on with the fuel distribution points on top, of course.

Here is a cross section.



34 is the diaphragm that separates the two halves. Imagine the top half upside down, and that is how it would be assembled, and that is what is in the photo in my first post.
No offence Jonathon, but I think you must be mistaken about the assembly you have pictured, or perhaps one of your boys may have been having a laugh. It may work the way you show, but I doubt it. I remember that you said in your original post about this, that you were waiting for a chance to put it on a car and try it. Perhaps, by the time you had a chance to try it out, it had been swapped for another. I know that many shops usually have several of these reconditioned units sitting around ready to be installed.

Warning for home mechanics!
Most people I have talked to say that pulling these things apart and putting them back together usually ends up with a leaking fuel distributor. It will be some time before I can test this unit under pressure, but the word is that you should check everything else, starting from the back, before attacking the fuel distributor.
If and when I learn more, I shall include an update in this post.
 

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CH4S Admin , Outstanding Contributor
1985 500SEC, 1991 190E 2.6.
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Towards the end of the project, perhaps you could post this in the DIY?
Cheers
 

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1967 230s 4sp 1985 380SEL auto
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Discussion Starter #10
I'm a fairly happy camper. I have to go out shortly, but I must report that progress has been made.

I stripped and repaired the damaged piston in the fuel distributor, and put it back on the car. I have also taken our the fuel tank, cleaned it out, and put it back with a new pump, fuel filter, and one or two small parts.
The car now catches, starts, then dies instantly, a problem which I have seen on here elsewhere.
It doesn't look like the fuel distributor is leaking, yet. Still plenty to do (see my thread about the vac line, if anybody has a 380 they might like to have a look at theirs), but I think that this is promising.
 

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CH4S Admin , Outstanding Contributor
1985 500SEC, 1991 190E 2.6.
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40,143 Posts
Like Jeroen said. There is also a master valve in the back of the FD, which regulates the FD's fuel pressure.
A set of fuel pressure gauges would help.
You may want to hang the injectors in 8 small containers (we used glass salt shakers), disconnect the coil, and cold crank to see how even the fuel delivery is.
Here is the valve with MB parts # from autohausaz site:
3437010021
Bosch
Fuel Distributor Seal; Primary Circuit Pressure Regulator Repair Kit
1 kit per car.
 

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1967 230s 4sp 1985 380SEL auto
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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks guys.
I found the thread about D and K Jetronic troubleshooting, and my problem looked like the second problem on that list, trigger point non continuity.
I have seen a number of threads with checks at the ECU, and today I took the plug off mine, and there is no numbering for the pins.
I have done a search, several in fact, and I can't find a legend for the pin numbering.
Could someone please point me to a source for this.
 

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CH4S Admin , Outstanding Contributor
1985 500SEC, 1991 190E 2.6.
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40,143 Posts
Here are the files for the 380, which pdf do you need?

07 Mechanical/Electronic Injection - M116/3.8 L & M117/5.0 L

* Info on testing and adjusting CIS systems

Test and adjustment work

* 07.3-001 - Functional description of mechanically controlled gasoline injection system with airflow sensor (CIS)
o Select page...
* 07.3-105 - Checking and adjusting on/off ratio
* 07.3-111 - Performing comparison of cylinders with SUN 2110 engine tester
* 07.3-112 - Testing electronic idle speed control
* 07.3-120 - Checking fuel pressures and for internal leaks
* 07.3-125 - Checking choke system
* 07.3-127 - Performing cold start
* 07.3-130 - Checking fuel pump
* 07.3-135 - Testing injection valves
* 07.3-152 - Testing, adjusting throttle valve switch
* 07.3-160 - Checking constant delivery of fuel distributor
* 07.3-165 - Checking fuel pump relay with electronic rpm control (breakaway speed)

Assembly jobs

* 07.3-199 - Survey mixture preparation
* 07.3-200 - Removal and installation of mixture control unit
* 07.3-205 - Renewing fuel distributor
* 07.3-210 - Reconditioning system pressure regulator and pressure compensating valve
* 07.3-215 - Removal and installation of injection valves
* 07.3-220 - Renewing air flow sensor
* 07.3-225 - Removal and installation of mixture control unit with air guide housing
* 07.3-230 - Removal and installation of throttle valve housing
* 07.3-242 - Retrofitting safety switch to air flow sensor
* 07.3-245 - Renewing, centering airflow sensor plate, checking and adjusting zero position of air flow sensor plate
* 07.3-269 - Survey fuel pump assembly
* 07.3-270 - Removal and installation of fuel reservoir
* 07.3-275 - Removal and installation of fuel filter
* 07.3-280 - Removal and installation of fuel pump
* 07.3-281 - Renewing holder for fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel reservoir
* 07.3-283 - Subsequent installation of separate check valve on fuel pump
* 07.3-310 - Checking inlet valves for deposits (coking), cleaning as necessary
 

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1967 230s 4sp 1985 380SEL auto
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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Eureka!
Thanks to a post I found when you and talbir were helping out bcolins after he replaced his fuel distributor. The tip about resetting the mixture (should have been obvious), did the trick. It now starts and runs, albeit roughly and fast, between 1000 to 1500.
I notice "07.3-112 - Testing electronic idle speed control", but the 124 thread on troubleshooting suggest
1)Check auxiliary air valve;
Ensure that it is closing.

2)Vacuum leaks;
Self explanatory.

3)Check the minimum air;
Self explanatory.

I'll have to look all that up.
Thanks for the kind offer of the pdfs, but I am not sure what I need ATM. I will just have to keep checking all the things that have been suggested. I am still curious about the pin numbering for the ECU. Will it be different to the 124.
Oh yes. It started with the ECU unplugged, due to an oversight. Is that normal?
Having a glass of wine to celebrate.



edit to add.
I already have a copy of 0.7.3.001, and there I learned that my post Sep 1981 engine uses an electronic control, but mine looks to have the air control?? Oh well.
 
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