[Kajtek1]

Cold weather is good for fuel storage, while starting the engine for few minutes is not.
All the prolonged idling does is washing the oil from cylinder walls and dump a doze of acids from cold startup into the crankcase.
Some people like to add Stabil to gas. I even bough a bottle years ago, but never used even on my boat that at one time had 2-years old gas. Since the boat is parked in hot spot and tank has open vent, the 2-years old gas lost the light fractions and the engine was smoking a bit on it, but it still run OK. Even my Honda lawnmower runs on gas left in it last summer just fine.

 

[PLeeson]

I think it's more of an issue with 2-cycle engines.

 

[Michael Pillay]

Winter Storage in unheated garage:

In no particular order.

1. Wash car. Make sure it is completely dry. Clean engine.
2. Wax car.
3. Clean interior-vacuum, use leather cleaner etc.
4. Place dryer sheets in car and open baking soda boxes in car. You want the interior to stay dry and smell nice when opening the car up in the spring.
5. Use a battery tender. Leave it plugged in all winter. Do not start the car up every few weeks.
6. Change oil and oil filter right before putting into storage. You do not want the contaminants in the used oil to eat away at the metal in your engine over the months of winter storage.
7. Fill it up with gas (naturally assuming you are not driving a diesel!) and add stabil.
8. Cover the tail pipe with plastic and tape it of. This will prevent mice from getting in. Close of any other openings that could allow mice to get in and cause damage. Mice traps in side car as well.
9. Optional: You can use moth balls to keep mice out as well. I used this in the front storage area of my 911 this winter but it smells horrible when you start taking the car out of storage. I do not have mice problems, but I figure better safe than sorry. I have seen pictures of what they can do. I do not want that to happen to me.
10. If you are storing in a garage that was been build 20 years ago or more, you may not have a vapor barrier. If so, or if you are unsure-you get get plastic at Lowes/Home Depot. Park the car on top if it.
11. Leave car uncovered. If moisture does get through (it should not), you do not want to trap it under the cover and around your car.
12. If you are concerned about your wheels corroding, you can use a thin layer of vaseline on them. BUT DO NOT get them on the tires. Vaseline will cause damage to rubber.
13. If you use a summer formula windshield washer fuid. Either drain it out or make sure you pop open the cover to the washer fluid container.

That is all I can think of now. I have a check list on my garage clipboard for when I put my cars into storage. This helps.

When you get the car out of storage, do not forget to uncover the tail pipe! Wash and wax car again. If you have a heavy layer of dust, just dusting it could scratch the paint. Use a leather conditioner, wash carpets and scotchguard. Scotchguard is good for 6 months so you should be good for the driving season but if you want to reapply it is fairly cheap and easy to obtain. I add chevron techron when I have to gas it up for the first time that spring. Up to you if you want to do this. Good time to check your wipers as well.
What I do not do often enough and should do: Change the brake fluid. Being hydrophilic, it will take on water. A friend of mine and I will be flushing brake fluid in our vehicles in the next couple of weeks.

 

[oliverb]

For short term storage, there is little deterioration of gas. If it will make you feel better, add some Stabil or Sea Foam to the tank just BEFORE (to mix it w/gas as you fill) the last fill. Then drive it long enough to pull the treated gas through the system.

Frequent starting but not driving, is harmful to the engine, as stated in a post above. You need several miles of driving to burn off the moisture, etc. from a cold start. There is, however, some debate as to whether this is as much of a problem with the fuel injected, leaner running engines - as opposed to carbureted engines.

It is better to leave a window or two slightly open during storage as this will prevent buildup of moisture inside the car during weather/humidity changes. The moisture can cause mold on upholstery, etc. as well as corrosion on internal chrome trim parts and rust on things like seat springs.

A brake fluid flush every 2 years will keep the internals of that system in good condition. BTW, your brake hoses are now 20 years old, time to consider changing them. The rubber used for O.E. Mercedes hoses seems to be pretty durable but the rubber can also deteriorate internally, causing braking problems.

 

[DEVOURS]

Thanks all !! Points 1 to 13 were also greatly appreciated.

I don't have mice problems as it's a new and well sealed garage but the traps are set around the cars with never a hit.
I do keep a soft drape over the car and dust in also not a problem as the cement slab is sealed and very smooth.

The Audi disks hold their gloss much better than the 06 MB which turn to rust while watching them. The soft pads and disks(rears) in the MB are a real PITA.

Thanks, Derek

 

[xxkazxx]

no reason to store the audi in winter.......Thats her prime season

 

[CLK 500 Drvier]

PLANNING ON STORING MY 2003 CLK 500 HARD TOP IN MY GARAGE FROM SEPT - MARCH ANY TIPS?

Hi everyone,

I am planning to store my 2003 CLK 500 hard top(which I drive HEAVILY all spring, summer and fall, this year i'm storing it early..) is there anything I should do to keep it stord properly so I don't have issues in the spring when I bring it back out?? It will be in my garage which is a fairly big 3 car garage so it can get a bit cold in there.. and I live in Toronto, Canada.. pretty bad winters up here! Any assistance would be GREATLY appreciated!

Thanks.

 

[DEVOURS]

Post # 4 covers most of your question...............