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1992 300D
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17 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

1992 300D, 110,000 miles.

First time out after not driving the car for 3 months, I lowered the windows, they went down fine. At the end of my trip the Front passenger window would not go up.

I swapped the two front window switches, Passenger switch installed on Driver side worked fine. Driver switch installed on Passenger side did not make the Passenger window go up.

Pulled the door card to investigate. How can I jumper the motor to test function?

See attached file, what are these wires?

Any other suggestions would be appreciated.

JJ
 

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80 280SL, 85 300SD, 87 300TD, 90 300TE 4Matic, 90 300D 2.5 Turbo, 92 300D 2.5 Turbo, 92 300TE 4Mat
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1,461 Posts
Try holding the key in the driver's door in the lock position for at least 5 seconds. The convenience module should engage the automatic windows / sunroof close function. that function is powered through a different relay than the power that runs through the center console switches.

Double check Fuses H, 9, and 2. Make sure there is no corrosion between the copper holder and the aluminum fuse element. Roll them within their slot.

Try to recall when you lowered the window, did it go down only after engaging the automatic lowering function ("auto down "), or did it move only so far as when you pushed the button, i.e. not all the way until you pushed the button again. If the former then only the convenience module automatic power side is functioning and your regular function power side relay may be flaking out. That is powered through Relay F. Also known as K24 Convenience Relay.

Relay F is particularly prone to cold solder cracking in the diesels because of excessive jarring. In a pinch, you can swap Relay A into the Relay F socket, just make sure you adjust your power seat where you want it first. The fuse rating on Relay A is lower so I don't recommend making the change permanent. I have successfully resoldered a few F Relays; just touch the iron tip to each solder connection to reflow it.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w124-e-ce-d-td-class/2018425-window-issues.html

7th paragraph down in this thread.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w124-e-ce-d-td-class/1988521-unfortunately-not-should-i-say-b2.html

Before




After



As to your picture, those two connectors are for the motor. You can jump them directly to 12 volts + and -; switch the contacts to reverse direction.

Good luck.
 

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1992 300D
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17 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
PWogaman,

Thanks for your insight.

Based on the info you provided re the electrical contacts in the picture I attached, I did jump them directly to 12 volts + and -; switch the contacts to reverse direction. All I got was a spark regardless of the polarity. Any thoughts?

Where are relay's A and F located?

John
 

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2010 glk350 91 560sec 74 230 66 220seb 86 300e 88 300e
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1,017 Posts
Try pushing up on window regulator while pushing switch some times regulator can bind on motor and cause it to stick. If this works then regulator is probably bent and will fail again in the future if not repaired
 

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80 280SL, 85 300SD, 87 300TD, 90 300TE 4Matic, 90 300D 2.5 Turbo, 92 300D 2.5 Turbo, 92 300TE 4Mat
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You could have shorted wires at the door hinge pass-through. Try unscrewing the two wires that go back to the car at your connector pictured above and test the motor again with only the wire going to the motor. If it sparks again you'll know your issue is with the door motor itself.

Here is an example of failed wires.



Here is the repair.


 

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1992 300D 2.5
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2 Posts
I know this is an old thread, but I'm having the same problem (front passenger window stuck down). You mention something about testing the convenience feature - I can't get the window to go up (or down) using either the console switch, or by using the convenience feature in driver door, passenger door, or trunk lock cylinders. Does that mean the problem is at the convenience relay? I do hear the relay click sometimes when I depress the console switch - does that mean it's getting power, and the switch is fine?

I originally thought that the problem must be a poor connection at the switch, as the problem started right after installing new console trim, but swapping front switches around showed that both worked in the driver's position, and neither in the passenger's position. And, come to think of it, I did move the convenience relay a couple of weeks ago in order to retrofit the heated seat relay, which goes underneath.

Just checked the wiring underneath the rubber boot that goes over the pass-through from the body to the door - everything there looks fine. I haven't checked fuses yet, but they were all changed less than a year ago. Still, it's low-hanging fruit and I'll check that next.

Thoughts?
 

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W124
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4,829 Posts
Open the door and check for voltage at the motor when the switch is activated. Sometimes the motor will get stuck in the down position because the commutator is tarnished and the brush can't make very good contact.
 

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1992 300D 2.5
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2 Posts
Open the door and check for voltage at the motor when the switch is activated. Sometimes the motor will get stuck in the down position because the commutator is tarnished and the brush can't make very good contact.
Thanks. Already checked voltage at what I assume are the motor contacts. I'm getting ~12.25V with the door open and switch up or down. I guess that means bad motor?
 

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newbie help - quick fix worked, but how repair?

Hi All -
Thanks to your tip of using the driver door lock trick, my stuck window went right up. But the interior raise/lower function is still dead. Since it seems to be a power problem rather than mechanical, I'm hoping there is an easy fix? Any ideas?
Thanks!!!
Michael
 

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1993 300CE Cabriolet (mine) ; 1994 E320 Wagon (wife's) ; 1990 Benz 300E 2.6 (son's)
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if you're careful, the window switches in the console can be disassembled, don't loose the tiny springs and balls inside, and you can clean the contract surfaces, using deoxit contact cleaner.... I had good results using a skinny slice of pink pencil eraser rubber held in a small pair of needlenose to polish the contact surfaces, with a drop of deoxit d100... be sure to clean out any eraser filings that get left behind.
 

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thanks! Additional piece of information - the interior button works fine for lowering the window, it just fails to raise it. Does that still sound like the switch?
- Michael
 

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86 190E 2.3L 16V, 2 95 320TE's, 02 S500
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thanks! Additional piece of information - the interior button works fine for lowering the window, it just fails to raise it. Does that still sound like the switch?
- Michael
Yes

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk
 

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Hi, I desperately need your help.

1995 E320 Sportline

My front passenger side window is currently stuck and wouldn't go up.
It began when I tried to lower the window down (I didn't engage the automatic down feature, only a light tap on the switch), it suddenly went all the way down.

Even after the window went completely down, I still could hear the motor clicking noise, like it was still getting input to lower the window down. The last time this happened, my motor was completely busted because of the same problem, so I had to replace it with the new one.

It seems like somehow the motor are still getting input. I tried to push the up button on the front passenger side, and could hear the relay clicking but no response anyhow. It also affected my driver side window. Whenever this problem occur, the driver side window also unresponsive. This time I decided to shut down the power window completely by removing the power window fuse for safety reasons.

Any suggestions ?

- Dylan
 

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1988 300CE
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thanks! Additional piece of information - the interior button works fine for lowering the window, it just fails to raise it. Does that still sound like the switch?
- Michael
You can pull these switches pretty easily (they are plug and play), so you can pull the one your concerned about and replace it with the other front window (or any other window) switch, to see if replacing the switch fixes your problem.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
 

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1989 W124 260E
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For other members -- I had the same problem .After replacing the regulator with a new one .Later after i had fitted the new regulator i put 12 volts to the old onei had removed that was in my garage and it worked .So do make sure the wires in your picture on the door are making contact .
 

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W124
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If you are attempting this DIY, I agree with checking at the switches. Try swapping as suggested. If you don't get an indication that one of the switches is bad, try removing both switches with the ignition on and listen to see if the windows are still being activated. It could be a problem with the K4 power window relay.
 
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