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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a problem with the soft close mechanism on my front drivers door. Pump is fine.

I tried to find the problem and found the white plastic actuator body broken, as have so many other people.

In the process of examinations, I also ended up destroying the ability to lock and unlock the front door. I can see a white CAM type of switch ( gear ) that does not engage when the door lock/unlock button is pulled or pushed at the door. I am not sure if I have broken something or if I have dislodged the lever from the switch. Does anybody have a diagram of how the CAM is connected to the push/pull lever ? The cam is about 20 mm white piece and the actuator is black.

I can live without the soft close if the lock mechanism works for now !

I plan to buy a complete lock mechanism from a recycler or new and the go through the drilling rivets business to remove the glass and then the lock mechanism. Any advice of this plan ? What type/size of drill is best for drilling out the rivets ? Replace with nut and bolt or more rivets ? -- steel rivets are hard to do !I have spent quite a bit of time on the forum investigating, so I am not just writing in a cavalier fashion.

:|
 

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Discussion Starter #3
This is perfect. I will get the right size drill and rivets. Not sure if I want to get a new lock -- over $600, but I need a part number for it. I have the VIN number but I am not sure if I can get the part number from it or have to get that from the dealer. Are the rivets steel and only a dealer item ?
 

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Below please find the Fastenal specs for the rivets including hole/ drill size:

Diameter:
3/16"
Drill Size:
#11
Finish - Body/Mandrel:
Zinc
Grip Range:
0.020" - 0.125"
Head:
Button
Head Diameter:
0.375"
Head Height:
0.060"
Hole Size:
0.192" - 0.196"
Length:
0.325"
Material - Body/Mandrel:
Steel/Steel
Series:
SB6-2
Shear Strength:
540 lb
Tensile Strength:
680 lb
Type:
Blind Rivet
Vending Certified:
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Mike,

My experience with Steel Rivets is that they are hard to do with the typical hand tools
The Windows regulator on the E320 ( W210) is very poor quality and usually fails after a while. I have used Aluminium rivets on those projects since I can use a hand riveter for that. Looks like that is not recommended here, but is it a possible alternative ? Seems like the main function of the steel rivet is just to hold the rail in place and withstand the power of the motor ?

I see from Youtube that people have used M8 nuts and bolts in place of the rivets, with Loctite -- any thoughts on those ?
Seems like the plastic pieces in this assembly are prone o failure with age. While the assembly is out can the plastic be conditioned to enhance its life ?
 

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Dil,

Harbor Freight sells a rivet tool for $29 (often for $19 on sale), which I believe is the same exact tool that Fastenal sells for over $200. This tool will handle the steel rivets with very little effort (it worked for me). People may shy away from stronger rivet tools because of size (rivets may need to be placed in tight spaces), in the case of the W220 doors, the harbor Freight tool fits just fine, I did my without the door even fully opened as I was in a garage that was limited in space.

This post may be of benefit:
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w220-s-class/2592834-door-acutuator-alternative-local-source.html
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Guys, a couple more questions:

I replaced the lock with one that has the same part number nut its has an extra two pin black connector. Can someone tell me what is that connector and where it should plug in -- I do not see any female two pin connectors of that size. The connector comes from the lock mechanism.

I also tried to replace a an old connector for the yellow air hose, but the hose is pretty well aged and gets deformed when pushed onto the connector behind the door panel. Can I buy new hose and connector from dealer or will he want to sell me a complete door mechanism ?
 

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Guys, a couple more questions:

I replaced the lock with one that has the same part number nut its has an extra two pin black connector. Can someone tell me what is that connector and where it should plug in -- I do not see any female two pin connectors of that size. The connector comes from the lock mechanism.
I ran into the same problem when I did my front passenger door. Actually bought a brand new actuator from the dealer and even though it had the same part number as my old one, it came with an extra connector that did not plug anywhere. I looked and I looked and then I taped it off. I am assuming that the new actuator I purchased was probably made for a car with more options than mine. Everything worked fine after.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yes, everything seems to be working fine, despite the two pin connector not being plugged in anywhere. Since you got a brand new lock, at least you did not have the problem of stiffened up yellow air hose. Looks like that hose is not available anywhere. I guess. I will just have to find the hose and adapter/connector of the original size somewhere else. It may need to be a higher temp hose than normal ?
 

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Yes, everything seems to be working fine, despite the two pin connector not being plugged in anywhere. Since you got a brand new lock, at least you did not have the problem of stiffened up yellow air hose. Looks like that hose is not available anywhere. I guess. I will just have to find the hose and adapter/connector of the original size somewhere else. It may need to be a higher temp hose than normal ?
I would check e-bay. Lot's of people parting these cars out and I am sure you can get lucky finding one.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks. I was hoping to get new hoses and fittings since these cars are more than 10 years old.
I am not sure if these hoses are like the Mercedes "Transmission fluid -- good for life", but life is probably defined as 5 years ?

Anyway, I am reading the numbers off the hose but not sure what they all mean. The hose is yellow and the numbers are the following:


6 05 4431 A*M06 .12.01.15:39* 41101117/003*
 
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dilsingh
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