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Registered
1991 500SL (Japan) - 133K KMS
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311 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

Last little while my front left wheel has been whirring when breaking. Other than that, there is no howling or whirring while I drive. The whirring/howling is a lot louder when I'm breaking more aggressively and at faster speeds.

I just replaced the rotors and pads and that didn't solve the problem like I hoped (even though I was due for a break pad/rotor change).

Wheel bearing on its way out?


Cheers

Nik.
 

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Greek God of the R129
SL500-500SEL-190E
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8,391 Posts
Check the dust shields or something been loose.

I don't think is a bearing but again bearings are cheap.

Regards,
aam.
 

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Registered
1991 500SL (Japan) - 133K KMS
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311 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I'll take a closer look. It was making this noise before I had the new rotors and pads installed, so I'm not sure if that makes a difference.

When I turn the wheel left to right, I hear a repeating clicking and every now and then a "snap" sound when pulling up the driveway or when the wheels are turns and going over a bump of some sort. Bad ball joints right? I had the tie-rods replaced less than a year ago. Could bad ball joints cause the whirring / howling noise?

I'll take off the wheel and see if anything is loose first.
 

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Greek God of the R129
SL500-500SEL-190E
Joined
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8,391 Posts
You have multiple problems.

Get a wrench and start tightening things down there.
Have a close look at the bolts holding the caliper, etc.
(They are known to brake off.)

Look especially at the caliper seals, nothing lasts for ever.
Many times crap & rust don't let the caliper pistons go back in.

Look at the lower control arm bushings for cracks.....
(Maybe that's your problem on the suspension.)

Also check the struts, more then 60K replace.
Don't believe the over 100K life, it is bs.

Ball joint, is the rubber cracked?
Move wheel in the air up/down, left/right.
It is old school sometimes works.
On new S$%t you are suppose to use a special tool......

Things have changed now days.
When we wanted to have kids, we did use the traditional ways......

Provided that the woman was young.
Pretty? Haha.

Now days women are older.
Doctors & magazines have taken over..... :(


Regards,
aam.
 

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Registered
1991 500SL (Japan) - 133K KMS
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311 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Digging this one up.

I'm still experiencing the whirring noise when breaking - this sound is only on the front left caliper.


Let me tell you the story in point form:


-When braking I experienced a loud whirring noise, major brake pedal shake, and car pulling hard to one side (wandering)

-Brakes were obviously needing replacement so I bought a set of R1 Concept rotors (4) and ceramic pads based off the reviews from other users on the forum.

-Had the brakes installed and everything seemed fine

-A week's worth of driving I heard a faint whirring noise coming from the front left. The pedal shake was non-existent and the car did not pull to the side when braking hard.

-Fast forward 9 or so months later - whirring noise became louder, brake pedal shake was back, car pulled hard to one side when braking. It was DANGEROUS stopping from high speeds.

-Absolutely frustrated I said F-this and bought MB OEM brakes and pads (about 3 weeks ago from today)

-While waiting for the parts the brake line to the front LEFT caliper exploded leaving the car inoperable. I had it towed to the indy and he replaced the brake lines and put the new brakes/rotors/senors on. I told him to thoroughly inspect the front left caliper as I finally took the hint that there was something wrong with it. He gets back to me and says that they can't find anything wrong with the caliper and it looks perfectly fine.

-I get the car back and it was stopping much better than the R1 Concepts (or felt like it anyway) -- no whirring, nice firm pedal, no veering (probably due to new damper)

-After the break-in period (where the pedal is nice and firm and stops on a touch when you first get new brakes)... guess what? I can hear the whirring noise coming back to life! It's not as audible as it was in the first two-three weeks as the R1 Concepts (maybe because they were drilled and slotted?) but I can bet you anything I'll be buying new brakes in 9 months if I don't solve this riddle.


Notes:
-I have new struts, strut mounts, ball-joints, drag-link, damper, tie rods, tires, wheel bearings



What the indy says after I took the car back:

-I took him for a ride and demonstrated the problem -- I asked them what would be eating away the front left rotor? Would loose wheel bearings do it (heard a special tool is required to tighten them or is this incorrect)? I said it seems to me the pads aren't making flush contact with the rotor. So he said they'd start off by replacing the pins they use to fasten the brake pads.

This may sound obvious but... should I be looking at buying a new set of new calipers?
 

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Registered
1991 500SL (Japan) - 133K KMS
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311 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Shameless bump.


Anybody have any thoughts?

C'mon Albert, I know you've got an ace up your sleeve! :)

I'll be sure to report back when the new pins have been installed and a second thorough investigation has been done.

Cheers.
 

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Greek God of the R129
SL500-500SEL-190E
Joined
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8,391 Posts
Shameless bump.


Anybody have any thoughts?

C'mon Albert, I know you've got an ace up your sleeve! :)

I'll be sure to report back when the new pins have been installed and a second thorough investigation has been done.

Cheers.
Nic,

Are you talking to me?
Are YOU talking to ME. Lol.

Two things come to my mind.

1. Caliper has internal defects.
Rust, debris, etc.
Open, look, replace seals, (both calipers.)

2. Replace the hydraulic lines/hoses.
Internal deterioration.

There you go.
My ACE....
Rubber particles jamming the calipers.

I hope that I didn't miss, I don't like wasting money.
Even if it's not mine. ;) Lol.

Regards,
aam. Albert.
 

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Outstanding Contributor
1997 SL600 Brilliant Silver Sport with grey/dark metal interior, 234K miles
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1,977 Posts
Swollen front flexible brake hoses to the caliper.

Under pressure from the master cylinder, brake (Canadian sp. break?) fluid is forced to the caliper past the constriction in the hose, but the caliper maintains brake pressure (like a residual pressure valve) after the brake pedal is released.

Or your calipers have a mechanical hangup and don't return the caliper pucks to their normal position after actuation.
 

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Greek God of the R129
SL500-500SEL-190E
Joined
·
8,391 Posts
Swollen front flexible brake hoses to the caliper.

Under pressure from the master cylinder, brake (Canadian sp. break?) fluid is forced to the caliper past the constriction in the hose, but the caliper maintains brake pressure (like a residual pressure valve) after the brake pedal is released.

Or your calipers have a mechanical hangup and don't return the caliper pucks to their normal position after actuation.
You must speak Greek, you understood me. :) Haha.

Regards,
aam.
 

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Registered
1991 500SL (Japan) - 133K KMS
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311 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Swollen front flexible brake hoses to the caliper.

Under pressure from the master cylinder, brake (Canadian sp. break?) fluid is forced to the caliper past the constriction in the hose, but the caliper maintains brake pressure (like a residual pressure valve) after the brake pedal is released.

Or your calipers have a mechanical hangup and don't return the caliper pucks to their normal position after actuation.
LOL... no, that's just me being dyslexic; it's brake :)

Thanks for the input manhunt. My front left caliper brake-line blew up and all were replaced when I had the brakes done.


I was told to get a caliper repair kit. $52 bucks per caliper. There's an alternative brand at half the price but you get what you pay for yadda yadda.
 
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