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Discussion Starter #1
I just finished a big maintenance job on my 560SL. It turned out to be more than I planned, but I'm very satisfied with the results. Here's a list of the jobs I finished. These, of course, were done in my shop on jack stands. Not bad for an old fart doing it by himself.



• Finished the following tasks.
• Replaced both motor mounts. MB parts
• Replaced subframe bushings. MB parts
• Replaced both lower ball joints. MB parts
• Replaced the lower control arm bushings and bolts (both sides). MB parts
• Replaced idler arm bushings and bolt. MB parts
• Replaced drag link. Meyle part
• Replaced both outer tie rods. Meyle parts
• Replaced front shocks. Bilstein
• Replaced steering damper. Bilstein
• Replaced the fuel filter. Bosch
• Replaced brake fluid. Napa Dot 4
• Changed oil and filter. Mobil 1 15-50 oil and Hengst filter element.
• Replaced anti-freeze and flushed the system w/distilled water. Zerex G-05 coolant
• Cleaned all three anti-lock brake sensors.
• Rotated tires and cleaned wheels.
• Got front end aligned at the MB dealer.

Here's a few pics of random items. A few more in the next post.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
A few more. I hope this isn't boring.

I had to include a pic of my new GSP puppy who help supervise the job. I also wanted to show how I removed the control arm bushings. I broke them loose with a set of big channel lock pliers and drove them out with a punch. Easy.

I removed the lower control arms using the procedure in the manual and took them to a shop to get the lower ball joints pressed out and in. It was fairly straightforward and I encourage you to do it yourself if you need to replace the joints. Nobby posted a nice thread about removing the control arms and his encouragement was much appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yeah. The car drives much better now and there are no annoying bumps and clunks. :)

I have to admit that I was a bit freaked out when I first drove the car after the repair and before getting the alignment. I was sure I had screwed something up it drove so poorly. It was almost scary. The right front tire was so far out of alignment, it was actually making noise on the way to the alignment shop.

After the alignment it drives perfectly.
 

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I'm curious what the cost of an alignment on a 107 would be, at MBZ or at an indie shop?

Sounds like a Herculean task with just jack stands, fortunately I have access to a lift. I'd like to do most of what you did also
 

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Interesting , thank you for the clear photos.

The lower arm bushings - did you change them because they were opened or were the bushings bad? I ask this because I can not judge if my bushings are OK or not.

If you have any pics about the old ones I would like to see the difference, thanks.

Above your front end task list I had to change the ABS sensors due their brittle wires. ABS warning light appeared ocassionally, the donored MB190 ABS sensors have been OK.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I'm curious what the cost of an alignment on a 107 would be, at MBZ or at an indie shop?

Sounds like a Herculean task with just jack stands, fortunately I have access to a lift. I'd like to do most of what you did also
The alignment at the local MB dealer cost $115. A local tire shop wanted $79 to do it, but I thought the MB dealer was the best choice for the 560. I wasn't sure the tire shop would have the right specs or equipment.

It would be great to have access to a lift. Don't be afraid to dive in and do these jobs. They're really not bad. I took my time and tried my best to do it right and enjoy the work. I had a ball with it, but I'm glad it's back on the road. Now I need to get the top off and replace the rear shocks.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Interesting , thank you for the clear photos.

The lower arm bushings - did you change them because they were opened or were the bushings bad? I ask this because I can not judge if my bushings are OK or not.

If you have any pics about the old ones I would like to see the difference, thanks.

Above your front end task list I had to change the ABS sensors due their brittle wires. ABS warning light appeared ocassionally, the donored MB190 ABS sensors have been OK.
The lower control arm bushings weren't that bad. I had the arm off to replace the lower ball joints so I just replaced them. I couldn't justify reusing 25 year old rubber parts while they were easily accessible. The old ones were pretty chewed up after I got them out, but I'll try to get a pic or two.

My ABS light doesn't work at all. It's on the "to do" list along with a clock repair for the winter time. My front ABS sensors were really dirty and I hope they are OK after the cleaning. The rear sensor was very clean.
 

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I'm curious what the cost of an alignment on a 107 would be, at MBZ or at an indie shop?

Sounds like a Herculean task with just jack stands, fortunately I have access to a lift. I'd like to do most of what you did also
Not that bad off of stands, I did motor mounts, sub-frame mounts, engine shocks, front shocks, and changed the transmission out all in 2 1/2 days on stands. Starter removal took about 4 hours of that. :crybaby2:
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
I agree. In fact, I think it may be easier to R&R the lower control arms with the car on jack stands. You can use a floor jack to ease the springs in and out like Nobby noted in his subframe thread. It helps these old knees to have knee pads though.

You must have been working hard to get all that done in such a short time. Was it tough to R&R the transmission?
 

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Not that bad off of stands, I did motor mounts, sub-frame mounts, engine shocks, front shocks, and changed the transmission out all in 2 1/2 days on stands. Starter removal took about 4 hours of that. :crybaby2:
I don't know what the cause is, but if I crawl under a car or truck sitting on the ground or just elevated on jack stands, I immediately get nauseous when I look up. I cant remain more than seconds or I fear I will become violently nauseous. Fortunately, my neighbor lets me use his lift whenever I'v needed.
Another thing you said raises my curiosity, you mention removing the transmission?? was it a standard or auto? I understand an auto needs to come out with the engine and be dropped from below in a unit with the subframe, quite challanging.
 

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I did the same to the front end this last summer with the addition of new upper control arm bushings and ball joint boots. Both the boots on the upper ball joints were torn. Since the ball joints can't be replaced on a 560sl I cleaned them and added new grease. Kit is available from MB. Planning on replacing upper control arms next year. Cost of the alignment was $150 at the dealer here in sin city. Almost didn't replace the upper control arm bushings...they looked mint from the outside. Pulled one and was surprised about the amount of damage...really chewed up on the end that fits into the control arm.

Part number for upper ball joint repair kit is 0003300585
Much cheaper from www.bmwmercedesparts.com/
than the dealer. About $30 (both sides) plus shipping...
 

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I don't know what the cause is, but if I crawl under a car or truck sitting on the ground or just elevated on jack stands, I immediately get nauseous when I look up. I cant remain more than seconds or I fear I will become violently nauseous. Fortunately, my neighbor lets me use his lift whenever I'v needed.
Another thing you said raises my curiosity, you mention removing the transmission?? was it a standard or auto? I understand an auto needs to come out with the engine and be dropped from below in a unit with the subframe, quite challanging.
Hah, I wish it was a manuel. It's an auto and no it comes right out the bottom with the sub-frame dropped a little. I had everything ready to go and did it all myself. Did miss my youngest son while working on it. Him and I did a allot of wrenching together until he finish college and moved away.
 

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Not that bad off of stands, I did motor mounts, sub-frame mounts, engine shocks, front shocks, and changed the transmission out all in 2 1/2 days on stands. Starter removal took about 4 hours of that. :crybaby2:
I did all my work with jack stands back in 2007.......including re and re of the transmission.

Pulling it off...it just kinda landed on my chest and then I dragged it out. Putting it back in necessitated a home made adapter bolted to my floor jack so I could re-install the trani with the required wiggle room adjustments. That pilot bearing was a bear to line up.

But I'm so used to working with jack stands now (after 30 or so years) I would need to re-adapt to a lift.
 

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Hah, I wish it was a manuel. It's an auto and no it comes right out the bottom with the sub-frame dropped a little. I had everything ready to go and did it all myself. Did miss my youngest son while working on it. Him and I did a allot of wrenching together until he finish college and moved away.
I'm learning, still learning. The reason I ask is the likely-hood of now pulling mine and re-seal it. I had read posts where you had to lower this or that frame piece, and I was in mental block at that point, seemingly only hearing (or reading) what I wanted to hear. I'm affected that way.....:( Anyway, as you explain it, it sounds much simpler and my access to the garage does include Everything, such as a portable oil drain, portable transmission stand, hoist from above, just everything a pro shop would have, in fact this was a pro shop not too many years back. Anything you'd suggest really addressing once the trans is on the ground, some body piece or hard to get to something or other?
 

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AHhhhh this is the wisdom, I'm looking for..... Thanks.
I'm not sure if it is or not, but upon start-up it burns off ATF fluid for a couple minutes on the exhaust, although the power steering reservoir seems to need re-fill every couple days, or rather a top-off, I'm led to believe it may be leaking. Otherwise, I'd think possibly the trans front seal. I only have 105K on the SL, but ? It was a Southwest car up until a couple years ago, and thats beneficial for the body rust-wise, but hard on seals in Arizona.
Once I'm under it, I can begin finding locations of apparent problems, and should then be able to determine if the trans might be the culprit....
 
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