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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, been lurking on here for a while, but as I have found myself in a bit of trouble I thought you lot may be able to help. Me and me mate usually only play around with landrover’s and Alvis Stalwart’s but we have recently acquired a 404 to play with.

Whilst out today the front diff lock refused to engage, got it back to the workshop and removed the small plate that the arm is held in with and removed the actuator pin. If you poke your little finger down the hole you can just feel where the fork has broken off, is this a usual problem or are we just unlucky.

Reading the service manual has added to our confusion and raised a couple of questions :confused:

1, Can you remove the diff with the front axle still under the Mog as the manual tells you to remove the axle complete?

2, is it possible to remove the torque tube and drive shaft without removing the axle?

3, the manual tells you to engage diff lock before you pull the half-shafts but as our actuator fork is broken this will be difficult if not impossible, Help?

Sorry for the long first post, but hope some of you can help as we are due to be travelling up to the Mogstock meeting in the UK at the end of the week and it would be good to get it fixed before we go.

Thanks and Best regards
Scott
 

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Hi Scott,

>Whilst out today the front diff lock refused to engage, got it back to the workshop and removed >the small plate that the arm is held in with and removed the actuator pin. If you poke your little >finger down the hole you can just feel where the fork has broken off, is this a usual problem or >are we just unlucky.
I wonder if the springs in the connecting rod were seized? I have heard of it, but not *that* often.

The castled piece that actually engages is sprung to the open - is it locked open??? You'd *probably* be alright, and off road could just lock the back.

>1, Can you remove the diff with the front axle still under the Mog as the manual tells you to >remove the axle complete?
Don't think so. The diff comes out with a twist, doubt you'd do it in situ.

>2, is it possible to remove the torque tube and drive shaft without removing the axle?
Don't think so, the splined part is quite long. You can access the ball joint at the end of the tube in a very dubious way, what you can do is take a few bits off and remover the bolts at the transmission end. Using ratchet straps you can pull the axle forward enough to access the bolts on the universal joint. Because you are acting against the springs you probably couldn't lower it enough to remove the drive shaft. Officially *not* recommended. The front axle is an 4r5e to remove because of tight access between the torque tube end (ball joint) and gearbox.

We had to offset the whole axle to put it back on, you can see some of it on the attachment below and at http://www.foodfight.org.uk/mog/together2.shtml

>3, the manual tells you to engage diff lock before you pull the half-shafts but as our actuator fork is broken this will be difficult if not impossible, Help?
Could you do some evil with a small drill and a thread (maybe a tap or die), or use an arc welder to tack onto the top? Give you enough torque to turn against the spring.

>Sorry for the long first post, but hope some of you can help as we are due to be travelling up to the Mogstock meeting in the UK at the end of the week and it would be good to get it fixed before we go.
Be good to see you there. If it is not locked, it may be OK.

jim

(wow, I can rate this thread)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the quick response. Pulled out the front axle this afternoon, it came out a lot easier that I had expected and only took about 3 hours to do with me working on my own. The ball-flange housing was very tight to get it passed the gearbox, is this normal, was thinking of grinding a bit more clearance before I put it back. Not stripped the diff yet, the selector fork is definitely broken. What I think has happened is the selector rod has snagged on something when the lock was engaged and this has pulled the lever past its usual position and snapped the fork. The rod seams quite exposed running under the torque tube, I think I’ll encase it in some tube for a bit of protection, has one else had this problem?
Instead of disconnecting the torque tube at the gearbox end is it possible to disconnect it at the axle end instead?

Sorry for the growing list of questions but its good to talk to people who know what they are talking about.

Thanks again

Scott

PS I have assumed that the front and rear diffs are the same is this correct?
 
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