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Kev, no they were made in Spain...just like my 124 front arms (shocks were for my 500se).
Robert, yeah I think they got carried away, the e320 had bigger brakes and non serviceable ball joints. And no 4 matic 124 ever had the newer non serviceable type. Shame ...you'd think they knew
 

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Did your Sachs shocks have 'Made in Germany' stamped on them still? Mine did a couple of yrs ago.....just curious.

Kevin
Yes - here are the new UK sources items to be fitted with the new LCA



The rear dampers are Boge, which again is a ZF daughter co, alongside Lemforder and TRW - identical quality and construction to these fronts

I cannot find a way to edit/delete my previous posts ?
There was an error in the first post of images, which is why I reposted.

How do I edit/delete ?
 

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Discussion Starter #23
2604280


2604281


2604282


This just in. A shout out to Hirnbeiss for steering me back to Pelican!

My one-car-at-a-time mechanic and I are making a plan so he can install these and work out the electrical issue on the same day.

Also ordered these...

DSC_0006.JPG


... because I had kept the old control arms (also genuine MB, one of which has a broken sway bar bolt) whose ball joints are still in decent shape - not like-new, but decent, though the rubber boots are shot - so I'm thinking of running those first (if I can find a metalworking shot that can weld in a new bolt) and save the new ones for later. What do you think?
 

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View attachment 2604282

This just in. A shout out to Hirnbeiss for steering me back to Pelican!

..


... because I had kept the old control arms (also genuine MB, one of which has a broken sway bar bolt) whose ball joints are still in decent shape - not like-new, but decent, though the rubber boots are shot - so I'm thinking of running those first (if I can find a metalworking shot that can weld in a new bolt) and save the new ones for later. What do you think?
It will be interesting to know what is stamped on the bottom of the ball-joint and the bushes of the new LCA's, and compare with your original LCA's
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I'll check this out later and report back. But I can tell you that both the originals (which were not the ones that the car rolled off the assembly line with, but used replacements that had been in better shape than the originals at that time) both have TRW cast into the steel of the welded ball joints - except the new ones say "TRWE" for some reason.
 

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Hello

I am in a similar situation.

I have a 1987 300E that makes front end noises, pops and rattles as well as creaks.

The ball joints are shot and the bushings are not in the best shape.

I am not sure how much longer I will keep the car however I just put a CAT on it so will most likely keep it for at least another 2 years (the time of the next smog check).

I want to get the control arms replaced as it is a safety issue. While I am at it I should change the front struts as well as the strut mounts, bumpers and dust sleeves. As you can see the cost is going up.

I believe a local mercedes shop will charge an hour per side for the front end work.

The car has the following other issues I have been living with, not sure how much to do considering I may not keep the car more than 2-4 years.
Engine consumes alot of oil about 1.75 quarts in about 500 miles (this is a rough estimate)
Fan Clutch Needs replacing - plan to replace
Transmission Secondary Pump has a major leak - plan to fix
Sunroof cable issue (is currently kept closed)
Climate / Blower motor in cowl /dash needs to be replaced.
Headlight frames are faded bad and one is broken - plan to replace
Passengers seat adjustment switch needs to be taken apart and cleaned or replaced. plan to fix

I've been getting by with the sunroof issue and without a blower motor and most likely won't ever get them fixed.

This all being said what type of front lower control arms should I purchase?

Should I skimp out on the front struts as well as the strut mounts, bumpers and dust sleeves?


Ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter #27
You're lucky your 87 has press-in ball joints, so you don't need to replace the entire control arm assembly; you just knock the old ball joint out of the control arm and press in a new one, and throw a new set of bushings in while you're at it. It should cost a fraction of what my integrated control arms did.

With that being said, and with all the other stuff that's wrong with the car, you need to either commit or bail. You just can't half-ass your way through this. The blower motor, fan clutch, headlights, passenger seat switc, sunroof - all simple everyday fixes that won't cost an arm and a leg; hell, all of these - except, perhaps, for the sunroof, if you don't know what you're doing or simply won't bother - are DIY fixes! You can just buy a new pair of DEPO euro headlights and slap them on. You can pull out a blower motor from the junkyard for a few buck or order a new aftermarket one online. None of these are serious issues.

It's the engine that's the real issue, and that's where you need to decide whether to commit or bail. Good luck.
 

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Six-wheeler thanks for the post.

I've replaced ball joints on other vehicles but my 300E has the spring to deal with and also a modified ball joint removal tool. I asked a few mercedes shops and they all just want to replace the entire control arm assembly, they claim its more work to just press the joint as they end up removing the control arm to press it off the vehicle. Add that the bushings are 33 years old it makes sense to replace the entire assembly.

The price of a control arm with ball joint and bushings is around $125, its not a whole lot more compared to the joint and two bushings.

Agree most of the other things are minor and I can do myself when I have time.

So about a month ago I was about to bail on the vehicle, it failed California Smog Emissions Test. I was thinking of turning it into the State Clean air act program, they would have gave me $1000. Instead I put a CAT in it $250, paid registration $135 and insurance. Knowing I have a leaky transmission secondary pump, the plan is to have it removed and a plate installed, this will about 1-2 hours labor at a mercedes transmission shop plus the parts $20, oring, plate different length bolts. Along with the fan clutch which needs to be replaced. I use to not drive it much but have driven it everyday to work for the last 3 weeks so just now did I realize the oil consumption rate.

So I guess I am committed to it for the next two years, until the next Smog Check, it may pass or the burning of oil might toast the CAT by then. The cost of the head work to address the oil consumption, assuming its the guides and seals will be too costly. So I will go after the most important things first, the fan clutch, front control arms and fix the bad leak with the transmissions secondary pump.

Most people who have bailed on the vehicle. I recognize the good points of the vehicle and want to keep it on the road for as long as possible and out of the junkyard and from being crushed.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I asked a few mercedes shops and they all just want to replace the entire control arm assembly, they claim its more work to just press the joint as they end up removing the control arm to press it off the vehicle. Add that the bushings are 33 years old it makes sense to replace the entire assembly.
With the car being as old as it is, there's a good chance that the sheet metal of the control arms is rusted through (but you and the shops you've visited don't know it yet). If you can find a good deal on entire genuine MB assemblies - or individual parts (control arm shells, ball joints, and bushings) that a good shop can assemble and install - and you really, really, really want to keep the car on the road, then you probably should go down that route.

I will tell you now, though, what nigh on everyone on Benz World will probably tell you: nothing other than genuine MB parts is worth it, including (or especially) this MEVOTECH thingy you mentioned. This is why I said at the beginning that you need to make a decision now as to whether you want to commit or bail. Because with cars like ours, if you bail, it would be no harm, no loss, but plenty of regret and sorrow (don't ask me how I know). If you commit, you'll sure to go down the deep end headfirst - but you will get to experience untold amounts of joy, every time, all the time. Make up your mind.

With that said, yours being an M103, there's a very good chance that new valve seals will take care of the oil burning issue. A good specialist or an experienced general mechanic will know how to replace the seals with the head in the car. Many of us on this forum have been there and have done that. If it's new guides that your engine needs (and, again, you're willing to commit), the head will need to come off - which presents the opportunity to install a new head gasket, which you ought to do anyhow as a matter of preventive maintenance (just do a quick search for "M103 head gasket leaks" to learn why.)

But then again, none of the above means anything unless you decide to commit.
 

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With the car being as old as it is, there's a good chance that the sheet metal of the control arms is rusted through ...
Eerrrrr, have you ever seen one of these controls arms up close? They are made from solid cast iron, not flimsy sheet metal.

The arms are about the last thing that would succumb to rust, after the entire car has rotted away.

If you have a W210, then yes those arms would rust since the whole car is a rustbucket.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Eerrrrr, have you ever seen one of these controls arms up close? They are made from solid cast iron, not flimsy sheet metal.

The arms are about the last thing that would succumb to rust, after the entire car has rotted away.

If you have a W210, then yes those arms would rust since the whole car is a rustbucket.
Yeah, I'm looking at them right now. The only part that's cast is the ball joint shell:

View attachment 2019-09-19 19.00.42.jpg

The rest of the control arm is made of stamped and welded (albeit sufficiently thick and well protected) sheet steel:

View attachment 2019-09-19 19.03.37.jpg

View attachment 2019-09-19 19.05.02.jpg

View attachment 2019-09-19 19.05.45.jpg

I'm not saying that it could happen often but I have seen a junked (and very rusty) W124 or two with front control arms that are rusted out beyond any possible reuse. Which is why I brought it up, given what the multiple shops he took the car to had told him.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Eerrrrr, have you ever seen one of these controls arms up close? They are made from solid cast iron, not flimsy sheet metal.

The arms are about the last thing that would succumb to rust, after the entire car has rotted away.

If you have a W210, then yes those arms would rust since the whole car is a rustbucket.
Yeah, I'm looking at them right now. The only part that's cast is the ball joint shell:

View attachment 2604706

The rest of the control arm is made of stamped and welded (albeit sufficiently thick and well protected) sheet steel:

View attachment 2604707

View attachment 2604708

View attachment 2604709

I'm not saying that it could happen often but I have seen a junked (and very rusty) W124 or two with front control arms that are rusted out beyond any possible reuse. Which is why I brought it up, given what the multiple shops he took the car to had told him.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
And I forgot to mention that one of the sway bar clamp studs on the old control arms had broken off while I was trying to undo the nut, and that was precisely because it had rusted so badly. Which is why I pissed away good money for the Febi units four years ago. So, yeah. It could happen.
 
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