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round one , square one
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
At present I have my engine out and the cab tilted(416).
I'm going to spray the frame/tranny/pto/axles... with some POR that I have and I was wondering if there is anything I should not paint???
All air line fittings will be taped, PTO's shafts are out and the housing will be taped at each end. Things like the shifter levers where they mount on the bottom plate, clutch arm on housing, items like these I'm curious about.
Anyone who has done similar and said later ''maybe I should not have painted that'' please speak up.
thanks
G Vavra
 

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'78 Mog 416.141 DoKa
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Paint does not stick to POR15 unless you perform some intermediate steps. Make sure you're not going to want to top-coat it. Also, UV severely fades POR15 - if it's in sunlight it will quickly become very flat and dull.

If it was my truck, I wouldn't use POR15 for this job unless everything on the frame was already pretty rusty - even then, I would consider rust removal and respray with a good catalyst chassis paint.

Don't misunderstand - I think POR15 is great stuff for touching up places. For general coverage, I'm less enthusiastic.
 

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round one , square one
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm just using the Por15 chassiscoat black topcoat not the Por15 rust preventative paint.
 

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U1300L Turbo x 3
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To be quite honest I've been pretty underwhelmed with por15 when painting previously painted surfaces. The rust stuff works fabulously on rusty crap. The safety hazards of painting por15 from hvlp makes me stay away from it.

I have used just ppg omni thinned with some lacqer thinner (without using any hardener) on chassis to amazing effect. It dries fast, and stays flexible.

Just steam clean to get all the oil and grease off first.


I'm just using the Por15 chassiscoat black
topcoat not the Por15 rust preventative paint.
 

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mogless, except for my friends MB4-94. And a bunch of other diesel junk.
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To be quite honest I've been pretty underwhelmed with por15 when painting previously painted surfaces. The rust stuff works fabulously on rusty crap. The safety hazards of painting por15 from hvlp makes me stay away from it.

I have used just ppg omni thinned with some lacqer thinner (without using any hardener) on chassis to amazing effect. It dries fast, and stays flexible.

Just steam clean to get all the oil and grease off first.
I'll second all of the above, though I use the hardener. Proper prep goes a long way. POR products are IMO, way overpriced. A good 2 part paint, with the right prep, should do fine. It's not rocket science, just a dirty truck frame. Clean, degrease, sand, and paint.
 

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'76 1300L,HE351CW,H15P Winches,Konis,Hydraulics,All Gears,10mm Plungers,Aftercooler,Lots of Littles
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Southern Polyurethane's 2 part Black Epoxy Primer. Best frame paint there is, and a bargain at $75/gallon with free shipping.

Search for it on the google and read what others say...

C.
 

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U1550L/37 Doka, U1700L/38, Merc 1017A
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por 15 is a great product compared to spray bombs. like others said, i would use a two part paint.
 

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I agree with the above as well . I did my 1550 with the POR15, and it is already fading and flaking in spots. I am pretty bummed with all the work I put into it. I'd say if you or anyone is going to use it, triple coat the UV protectant layer or use a different product.
 

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'78 Mog 416.141 DoKa
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I'm just using the Por15 chassiscoat black topcoat not the Por15 rust preventative paint.
:thumbsup: never used it, but if it's advertised as a top-coat it's probably acceptable for 'under'
 

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85' U1300L Holset Turbo VA A/C, 66' Propane 404.1 rock mog, 1975 416 Doka, G500, Volvo C303
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NASON 2K single stage urethane. We used this for top coating our Color Line-X bed liners. This was later replaced with a similar product that has kevlar pulp called Xtra. Very flexible stuff. I used it on frame off restorations as well. If you really want it to stick, start with the NASON etch primer, followed by Regular NASON primer then topcoat with 2 coats.


Nuf said.
 

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Long time viewer of this forum weighing in about your coating/paint question. As a guy who makes his living with industrial coatings, I have a few suggestions...
1) What sort of surface preparation are you using? Sand blasting, power tool cleaning? This will make a big difference.
2) What are your expectations for the life of the coating? If you want a bombproof frame coating, thorough surface preparation and a two/three coat system would be in the cards.
3) There no such thing as a rust preventative paint. Rust inhibitive coatings have resins and pigments designed to slow the process of corrosion. Corrosion is a law of physics, we can just do our best to slow it down. I know....it's semantics.

Depending on what you were planning to do for surface prep will determine what kind of coating you should use. Happy to make any suggestions.

Happy Thanksgiving!
 

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U140 , U900 , 419 SEE , U1000 , GL450a , GL450b
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Yes, welcome indeed. I want to do this work right the first time around.

ACUF
 

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Non MB 1975 Volvo C304, 1958 Kramer U540, 1959 unimog Westfalia 411
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... I'm going to spray the frame/tranny/pto/axles... with some POR that I have and... G Vavra
Update please Kimo how did you go about your paint job? I have my 406 on blocks and cab tilted. I have one coil spring removed the rest to go and the air tank and battery box removed I have been prepping for a week degreasing, pressure washing, wire wheels, abrasive disc you name it. I have a few areas of rust on the frame and mostly the paint has flaked and peeled. I have it down to primer for the most part and metal where there was rust. I intend to paint the frame and axle housings and bed spider. I am tempted to use rustoleum products that I can brush and spray. Or I'll go the two part epoxy primer route. I have the brake lines removed on the front axle and I have only loosened the rears from the straps to get around the lines. Did you paint over your hard lines on the axles. Any pics? Advise, or recommendations appreciated. I am on a tight budget which narrows my options. edit All lines removed and all brake components on the axles are removed. There's a lot of surface area on these little things!
 

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U1000Ag
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At present I have my engine out and the cab tilted(416).
I'm going to spray the frame/tranny/pto/axles... with some POR that I have and I was wondering if there is anything I should not paint???
.........................................
G Vavra
Do not paint the flexihoses used in the brake/clutch system. General rule, do not paint anything that is rubber/plastic based.
 

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round one , square one
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
ALASKAT
All in all, I'm pretty happy about how the POR came out. I had about 5% that did not take,I was able to go back and touch up without a problem. I did not paint over any rubber/plastic like krietpiel mentions though I did paint all the hard lines and when I came to a fitting I just taped it off and clearcoated it later .
I think the thing with the POR is follow instructions to the tee. If you even think about skipping a step or substituting something ...your screwed.
Would I use it again...only for a full frame off restoration. There are other paints or two part epoxies that are just as good yet cheaper.
We are all pretty anal about our Mogs in one way or another but it comes down to protecting a frame from the elements.

G Vavra

we expect some pics of your progress!!!
 

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Non MB 1975 Volvo C304, 1958 Kramer U540, 1959 unimog Westfalia 411
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Thanks, I am curious as to how much to expect using on frame, axles and spider support. The POR is tempting to use on my axles due to the light pitting and overall rustiness but I am just painting metal to protect it from the elements. I will do major prep before anything gets applied. And any more specifics are appreciated, I raised the cab for easy access to replace the lid seal and filter on the power steering reservoir and recheck the pressure relief valves for the oil pressure issue I have, and oh how things have snowballed outta control. I reset the IP back a bit to reduce the black smoke going up hills. Thanks again I'll figure out where to put my saga and what to title it.
 

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I've tried them both POR15 and Rust Bullet, and personally I liked the latter better.
 

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1987 u1300L Ambo
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Hmmm, making me rethink our approach. We have a new subframe coming from germany right now for our camper. Have to weld it up and then paint it. We'd planned on a 2 passes of por15, their rust preventative undercoat, followed by their chassis top coat (that was the rec they gave, weird two of their products ;)

In the setting of fresh bare steel subframe, what would people recommend?

-S
 

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Powder coat it. In Montana, the powder
Coater told me, "we zinc plate it first, then
Coat it, so if you get a scratch, it won't
Rust". That has proven to be true.
If done right, powder coating should seal
It all up better than primer/ paint . Another bonus is that you drop it off and
Pick it up- no prep, no dust. The key is
To use a quality shop, but word of mouth
Will solve that issue pretty quickly.
Make sure that bolt holes / tubes that require clearance are all masked. It is a pain to have to re-Clearance all of your
Holes. Standard stuff for a good shop to
Ask and make sure- but just stick a zip tie through every hole that needs to stay
Clean, and they'll mask it.
 
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