It sounds by your experience, my reasoning is sound.I have four nubs in front. when I bought them I actually did not understand the system and got original MB rubber. It seemed like a good idea with my new original MB coil springs. Now my front gap is approaching "rock crawler" territory and we will be cutting the coil soon (I have been trying to do this for some time, but "life is what happens when you are busy making other plans"--John Lennon). Then we will see what nubs seem appropriate for me.
I couldn't find any nubs on my rear spring pads--unless it was indeed one that I mistook as molding flash. If both the SLS and non-SLS cars have one nub on the rear, but 4/2 respectively up front, I wonder if the rear SLS system led the engineers to decide the front needed an extra half-inch height?My 560SEC [red daubed springs & the self leveling rams at the rear] has 4 nubs at the front .. Apparently.. I haven't made note of the rear spacers on that car..
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My Euro 500 without SLS has retained its original spring spacers from new.
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I hope the new spring will eliminate the rickety creeking over speed bumps.Yes, I think so. Many members have experience what I have, which is that ordering the correct spring has resulted in an increased gap in the front wheels requiring cutting. My best guess confirmed by several helpful members is that taking half a coil will bring it to near where I want it, and if I then have to, I can fine tune with a new lower nub spring pad.
I thought the higher/more compensatory the SLS adjustment, the more pressure it puts on the system and earlier deterioration. I could be wrong.Does it make sense that, since the ride height with the SLS system can be adjusted with the hydraulics, there would be no need for different thickness spring pads?
Maybe they gave a range of pad options with these factors in mind--a "window" or range of adjustment. I guess the issue is why the SLS models by default came with 4-nub front and 1-nub rear, and the non-SLS a 2-nub front and 1-nub rear.So, if it's not pads and not adjustment, what is it?
I didn't know there were rear 3-nub pads--unless you can use ones intended for the front on the rear.You are absolutely right. A Mercedes mechanic advised me not to over-compensate the SLS adjustment as it could lead to premature wear.
I do not like my car's stance as it is raked forward. I like it level. The spring pads are 3-nub in the rear and 2-nub in front. I will have to replace the front to 3-nub to level the car.
If the car still tilts down toward the rear left, even after the differential and subframe mount replacements, I wonder if it's safe to have a higher pad on the rear left, and a shorter one on the rear right?You'll have to install the new springs and pads and drive around for a month or so. Then you'll know how the car will settle and see if you like the stance.
Take photos of the car on a level ground. You'll know if you need to switch the pads or if you can get away with adjusting the SLS without over-compensating it.
Did you find 1/3rd coil cut to be a satisfactory solution? And, any perceptible difference in feel? The HR springs would be firmer anyway.my 500sel had 2front 3 rear nubs stock and when i put the HR springs in i bought new ones to refresh.
My sec had 1/2 i and bought same for replacement with HR. The front of that car did not lower as much as i expected, so we cut 1/3 of a coil... each car is different with out any reasonable rhyme or reason it seems
Wow, and your Fed spec car isn't sagging irregularly either front or back?Hey Drew,
You might look back at vdub's threads /posts on this for some perspective germane to your Gen 2 situation.
One of his suspension mod adventures included installing H&Rs on his SEC.. and a surprise that the drop was less than expected, by a margin.
In these postings you will read the 'original' springs removed were painted red, as I recall... A signature of another 'lowering' springs manufacturer.
These springs were NOT stock at all, therefore creating a false expectation as to the final H&R result.
We had a recent treatise on stock 126 springs, part numbers and paint daubs, according to various 126 models & equipment supplied [adding weight w each addition]...
As I recall, the spring part numbers were similar, only the paint daubs were the final arbiter.
For your reference, my '87 FED spec SEC.. has RED daubs on all 4 springs.
I am pleased with the 36 year old factory offerings still, even after 155K on the odometer.
Yes I have changed numerous ball joints, shocks, bushings, caster joints, suspension mounts, SLS components... Yes, a lot.
It drives, rides better than it did back 20 years ago.
Same springs, about 87K miles later....
Drive fast & Good luck,