[noeljb]

I am having a time getting this 79 SL to run. I saw in another topic about the risistors near the coil and infact one of mine is cracked. I dismounted it (the ceramic fell apart) but I isolated it and it sure wants to crank, but still no joy.

When I first try to start it it tries real hard but after just a few tries I smell gas as if it is flooding. Would this be an indication of no consistant spark (I don't think so) or is it possible the fuel injection / injectors are at fault?

When it tries to start I let off the starter and it runs but at an ever decreasing RPM untill it dies. This is a two to three second death.

I seek knowledge, wisdom, and the love of a good woman. So far it is just like the starting of my car . . . . . . . . NO JOY!

 

[Ears]

The injectors are a continuous-type, and do not pulse, like other electronic injectors. There have been cases where the injectors flood so much, the engine gets hydro-locked. In your case, it kinda makes me think it is getting too much fuel. If that is the case, when it does run, it should be smoking black, sooty exhaust. Pull the plugs and 'ave a look. Let us know your findings...

Once started, the ignition system should keep 'er running, so I doubt it is that unless the fire is so weak that the flooding from poor spark loads up too much to let 'er keep on churning.

Once you diagnose the plugs, let us know and we'll suggest other items, depending on your findings....

I hazard to think of the worst case scenario; that of jumped timing... Do you have any reason to suspect such? Was the car previously running fine? Was this car stored for a long time prior to you trying to get 'er started? Do you have any reason to suspect the compression(stuck rings from setting up tooooooooooooo long)?

Good luck, and let us know all you can. Several guys are standing at the ready to wade in I'm sure, as soon as more info comes to light.

 

[noeljb]

Thanks for the reply Ears

Will look at plugs. They are gaped at .035 I presume this is ok. I will pull them and look for?

When I had them out to replace timing chain they looked real purdy. I replaced timing chain (I was told it was stretched). The cams are indexed with TDC on the crank with the rotor at exactly plug wire #1.

I am told the car was running when timing chain guide messed up and bent valves. car ran even after this back to house where head was pulled and reworked. Pistons were not damaged etc.
Car has not been run for about 7 or 8 months.

Owner (Master mechanic and teacher) then had Heart attack and had a Defibrillator installed. He is no longer allowed to be within 2 feet of a running alternator, so he sold to me.

Am I gonna have to bring this thing to you?

 

[noeljb]

Oh wait I thoought you were the guy with the shop in Alabama, But I will bring it to you if you can make it run like neeeewwwww.

But as the VP of operations I probable counld not afford your time.

 

[Ears]

Jonathon in Atlanta (area) and on this and the 126 forum comes highly recommended. I'm sure he could help you out, if you were so inclined to bring it east...

Not too many MB engines in the mining community, so I get my fix by reading this board and tinkering on my 560. Don't let the title fool you... There are many levels of flunky in my industry. The stinky stuff still rolls downhill, and starts somewhere above me I can tell you for sure!

Forum is acting up again... Had to shorten post to get it to report.

 

[Ears]

Given the history you recount, I'd take the beast back to the basics. Run a compression check both wet and dry, but wet is not necessary. Depending on the results, then run a leak-down. Verify timing on both cams and the distributor. Slipped timing will result in a weak start, but a screaming eagle at high RPM (don't try this).

After these tests, start with the basics on the ignition system, ie Dizzy cap and rotor (if not changed recently), wires and plugs (same caveat). I can't recall if your car has trigger points below the dist plate. If so, remove plate and clean all real well. Oil has been known to get in there with the trigger points and foul them ( I believe this is only applicable to the D-Jet, but can't say for sure) Once mechanics and electrics are verified, tackle the fuel inj. Here, you'll need someone more schooled than me to suggest a route of attack. As Fox Mulder sez, "the answer is out there..."

Good luck. I wish you well.

 

[noeljb]

Well in the last two months I have been able to work on the car two days. I just loaded it up on a trailer and took it down to Beaumont.

Mechanic says its the fuel distributor. He also tells me a rebuilt one is $1200.

I told him I had one comming from German Star for a LOT less.

I may have found Ron a new customer.

 

[noeljb]

It's Alive!!!!!!

Got the car from Beaumont today. It was the fuel distributor. Got front end aligned and car drove well. Beaumont is about an hour drive, no engine problems.

Fuel guage is jummpy and mostly stays pegged on empty.

AC doesn't work was kinda hot drive but I did enjoy it. The compresser is not turning I don't know if it is electrical or lack of freon. Will have to trace out the hot lead to the commpresser clutch to see where current stops at.

Or I could just take it to get freon checked. Think I'll do that first.

 

[nobby]

All right then noeljb!

 

[noeljb]

Tapping

I cranked the car up this morrning and it has a distinct tapping. It may be a colapesed lifter.

Can these lifters be pulled through the heads?

If I remember I need to find the loose rod to find the colapesed lifter. Or should I just replace them all.

Anybody got any other ideas I might check out first?

See next post I hada brain fart

 

[noeljb]

No Lifters

WAIT!

Overhead cam!!!!!! No lifters!!!!!
Duh!!!!

Ok So what else could make a sound like a colapsed lifter!

The valves were bent and I was told they had been replaced. maybe they haven't?
I would hate to think Clifford Eddie lied to me. But it would not be the first time I've been lied to nor the last I'm sure

 

[noeljb]

Ok no Hydraulic lifter

No Hydraulic lifter, but it does have hydraulic "elements"
I am supposed to check valve clearance, but how much clearance?
I asume 0; if the element is working properly.
and how bad do I need this 17mm valve adjusting wrench?