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Unimog S404, Atkinson Alligator Universal Carrier, Land rover 11A 3.5 V8
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85 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

I took my mog for a run after rebuilding the engine. It was great. palled like a train and had no engine problems what so ever. :)

I do have a few concerns over the brakes and hope some one can help or put my mind at rest that this is normal.

I have been through the brakes and made sure the shoes are okay and the wheel cylinders where working correctly. I have got a good pedal but it is a struggle to get the mog to stop. If I stand on the brake the rear axle locks up and if I am gentle with the pedal. It does stop but not as quick as I would like.

My 404 is fitted with single line brakes with a remote servo. Does anyone have any pointers or have experienced faults with the servo unit. Is there any way of testing the system. I was thinking of putting a hand operated vac pump on the servo to see if the diaphragm is leaking.

If I can get the brake semi right then I am hoping that they will get better with use.

I am going to do a engine oil and filter next weekend. Can anyone tell me the part number for the filter. As I cant seam to find it in the manual. No doubt there is a modern day replacement which I should be able to get from a auotfactor.

Thanks
 

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85' U1300L Holset Turbo VA A/C, 66' Propane 404.1 rock mog, 1975 416 Doka, G500, Volvo C303
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5,035 Posts
I have the servo as well. I find that if you double pump the brakes, you get far better brake response. That said, 404 brakes are a bit on the vague side, and will always feel a bit different. But if you really want to stop, they are always ready to lock up.

I wonder if the servo has a high activation pressure. I haven't had mine apart in a very very long time, but it would be interesting to see if it has tunable sensitivity. Mine needs attention, so maybe in the near future I will pull it apart and investigate.
 

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1990 Unimog 1300L, 2004 ML350, 1999 SLK 230,
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579 Posts
The oil filter part number for both, the M130 and M180 engine is A 000 180 00 09
 

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Unimog S404, Atkinson Alligator Universal Carrier, Land rover 11A 3.5 V8
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85 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
thanks Doka,

I will look into mine and let you know what I find. I think I will put a vac gauge on it a and see if its okay.
 

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1962 404, 1957 405SH and lots of Landrovers
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303 Posts
possibly stating the obvious here but if all the brake cylinders were working correctly the front axle should lock up first as it has the most weight on it due to the 2:1 weight ratio when empty. I would check that each brake line is fully operational and there is no air trapped in the system, normally in the cyclinders. use a brake clamp on the flexi pipes to isolate each cylinder in turn and see if the pedal gets harder on one particular corner then re-bleed as appropriate. Also check the brake shoes are tight up to the drum so they just allow it to rotate freely. once youve done a few hundred mile re-adjust the shoes as more surface area come into contact with the drum as they bed into the contours of the drum. this also helps and is why you should never do a MOT immediately after brake work as they need time and mileage to settle in and get maximum efficiency.

j
 

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85' U1300L Holset Turbo VA A/C, 66' Propane 404.1 rock mog, 1975 416 Doka, G500, Volvo C303
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5,035 Posts
Rear brakes will always lock up first unless you have a proportioning valve. The 404 does not have this valve.

Also, 404 brake pads are to be purchased to match the drum. and the drum should be turned to spec. This virtually eliminates the need to "run" them in.
 

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1963 Swiss 404
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181 Posts
If you cannot find an MB oil filter, then you can always use a FRAM CH962PL [or its equivalent]. I have used them for almost 11 years. Just check inside the cardboard box to make sure that you get a new O-ring for the filter housing 'canister' where it seals with the top part attached to the M180.
 
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