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Forum Administrator , RC Colas® & Moon Pies®
1981 380SL 151K: 2005 S500 116K
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I got tired of messing with having to open the attachments so here they are in order from mj's initial post. I tried to match his comments with the pictures as best I could.

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1.
mjhawkins2346 said:
Here's how I did it.

I soldered pigtails onto the end of the contacts in the light socket -- butt soldered, not drilled through.
The blades are a spring steel and don't drill easily, but they are tinned so it's easy to make a solid and strong butt joint ( and there isn't much space for anything else.


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2.
mjhawkins2346 said:
I recommend pushing them out one at a time. Maybe it's just me - but I found them amazingly easy to get mixed up. They push out easily by depressing the locking tab and pushing them up. Remove the bulb first though. It was just easier to photograph this way.


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3.
mjhawkins2346 said:
Notice the marks along the edge of the holder lining up with the contacts. I found this helped with determining the exact portion of the conductor plate that matched up with the specific contact. It can get mixed up and the resultant short will eat fuses.


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4.
mjhawkins2346 said:
I tinned a pigtail with a very short stripping, and then put a dab of solder on the point of the blade that lines up with the holes I drilled in the holder. You need the short stripping to avoid a long un-insulated "neck" on your finished project - to short out.


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5.
mjhawkins2346 said:
After soldering on the pigtail, I threaded it down through the matching hole. I used a #27 drill, but anything around 3/32 or so should work.

I crimped on the fasteners afterwards.

The first version just had spade terminals at the end of the pigtails, and I drilled small holes in the conductive plate and screwed the terminals to the plate with small tapping screws ( #6 x 1/2" ). This next version has spade connectors so I can pull the holder out of the car without tools. The pigtails are long enough to change bulbs, though if you want to keep the work simpler.


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Forum Administrator , RC Colas® & Moon Pies®
1981 380SL 151K: 2005 S500 116K
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39,219 Posts
As I mentioned on the "Donk" thread, I suddenly had the bright idea to visit my brother in law who is a mechanic at a dealership that is affiliated with a Benz dealer next door. While we were talking about the donk noise from the front end, the info panel kept doing its beep thing every time the car was turned off or on.

I explained the problem and we repaired to the rear of the Estate to investigate further. I told him how I had switched the bulbs and the new ones would not light after being in the faulty unit just one time. I also told him that I had switched the bulbs from one socket to the other.

Then he asked if I had tried switching the sockets themselves.
 

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Forum Administrator , RC Colas® & Moon Pies®
1981 380SL 151K: 2005 S500 116K
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Needless to say, the lights immediately worked as designed. No more error message and loud dings from the dash board. Hope it stays this way.

Thanks for all the help!
 

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03 E320 4M Wagon & 97 E320
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3,926 Posts
Glad you have the problem solved. However I still see no explanation why the bulb would blow instantly (meaning a higher voltage is on it).
 

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Forum Administrator , RC Colas® & Moon Pies®
1981 380SL 151K: 2005 S500 116K
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39,219 Posts
They never blew. They simply didn't work in either light after the first time in the problematic tail light fixture. When we switched the sockets (holders) the light bulb that I THOUGHT had blown, immediately worked. I could never determine why the bulbs were not working as a visual inspection did not show evidence of damage to the filaments but then again, my eyes are no longer what they used to be, even with the reading glasses.

Now I have 2 extra stop light bulbs that are apparently in fine condition. I think I'll put them up in the For Sale forum and see what I can get for them. Maybe Ebay as well.

"Miraculous Light Bulbs Raised From the Dead!"

I could retire, prolly.

As an aside to the story, I was in my car yesterday afternoon, prior to my "bright" idea about calling my brother in law and actually dialed the dealership parts department to order the replacement tail light fixture that I thought was bad. I even had the credit card ready so that I could pay (non-refundable, $159.00) and it would be in today so I could pick it up and install it.

The call wouldn't go through. I got some funny busy signal tone and since I had no more time, I figured I'd wait until today to order it.

D'ya suppose ol' Gottlieb was looking down from somewhere?
 

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03 E320 4M Wagon & 97 E320
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3,926 Posts
I see now,. I thought you had confirmed the bulbs blew.

So it was no juice rather than over-juice (is that a word? :D) to the bulbs.
 

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Forum Administrator , RC Colas® & Moon Pies®
1981 380SL 151K: 2005 S500 116K
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I put the non functioning bulbs into the working unit and the bulbs did not light when I stepped on the brake pedal. When I put the original bulb back into the same light, that light worked. To me, that confirmed that the bulbs were blown.

It did not occur to me to switch the bulb socket with the original bulbs.
 

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1997 Mercedes S500 Coupe
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59 Posts
Sorry to be a dunce, I have a burned out side marker light on my W140. Does anyone have a picture of how to get at the bulb?

Thanks

R49
 

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2000 E320
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15 Posts
tail stop light malfunction

Message "lamp Malfunction" display after I change front/rear bulbs last two weeks. I remove both stop light sockets and examine with flash light, found out the circuit board has a bad burn out spot in right side. I use a alumni foil under the socket contact tip to make a good contact with the baseboard. It did the trick, MB has a bad design, the circuit board should have a better design with heavy metal with gold/silver coating. No more display about "Lamp Mulfunction". Next project is to remove instrument cluster to replace bulb and ribbin cable, the TEMP and Clock are dark without display the number. I guess that is a common bug in the E320/430 design.
 

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99 E430, 01 E430 Sport, 00 SL500
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Message "lamp Malfunction" display after I change front/rear bulbs last two weeks. I remove both stop light sockets and examine with flash light, found out the circuit board has a bad burn out spot in right side. I use a alumni foil under the socket contact tip to make a good contact with the baseboard. It did the trick, MB has a bad design, the circuit board should have a better design with heavy metal with gold/silver coating. No more display about "Lamp Mulfunction". Next project is to remove instrument cluster to replace bulb and ribbin cable, the TEMP and Clock are dark without display the number. I guess that is a common bug in the E320/430 design.
With your aluminum foil method, soon, the foil will burn out at the contact point because it's not made for conducting high current. Then the warning light will come on again. I think the best way to fix is to use sand paper
1. to rub out the burned spot on the plate of the tail light assembly.
2. to flatten the contact point of the spring tab on the bulb socket. When the electrical contact area is large, the heat gets distributed to prevent burning. The idea is similar to putting the weight of a yogi over 1 nail or over a bed of nails.
 

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'05 C240 Wagon
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110 Posts
does anybody know if this method will fix the error because i have LED brake lights?

i am assuming the watt is too low and so the warning light goes on.

what a pain..... arrogant cars.. :)
 

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2000 E320
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15 Posts
does anybody know if this method will fix the error because i have LED brake lights?

i am assuming the watt is too low and so the warning light goes on.

what a pain..... arrogant cars.. :)
LED bulb is very low resistance compare to the regular bulb, so it need to add a resistor to fake the computer circuit to prevent Warning light go on. Search "LED resistor" will find the solution. I am planing to use LED as a fog light and wish it will not trigger the waring light circuit. Most of car detects the resistance of bulb not watts to trigger the light waring system for safety.
 

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'05 C240 Wagon
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110 Posts
LED bulb is very low resistance compare to the regular bulb, so it need to add a resistor to fake the computer circuit to prevent Warning light go on. Search "LED resistor" will find the solution. I am planing to use LED as a fog light and wish it will not trigger the waring light circuit. Most of car detects the resistance of bulb not watts to trigger the light waring system for safety.

so would it be the same mod as in this tread just adding the correct resistor?
 

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2000 E320
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15 Posts
so would it be the same mod as in this tread just adding the correct resistor?
yes, the low resistor = open circuit. It is the reason not install LED headlight or stop light yet. I hope Mercedes is not care about driving light bulb resistor so I order a H1 LED from eBay ($5) just for testing. Driving(fog) bulb uses 50W of power each, I will use FOG/Driving more if the LED bulb works with minimum modify to the circuit. I love safety with fog light on, but hate to burn the bulb or wire in other case.
 

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W210.265/2001, W220/S500/2000, Porsche 997 C2S/2006, GMC K1500/1992
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Man, we have 104F and sunny almost all the time, I hardly use light in day time to avoid bad lamp replacement. Unless you are owe, we do not need day time driving light in DFW. I try to conserve power for a good A/C operation in stop & go traffic.
 

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2000 E320
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Man, we have 104F and sunny almost all the time, I hardly use light in day time to avoid bad lamp replacement. Unless you are owe, we do not need day time driving light in DFW. I try to conserve power for a good A/C operation in stop & go traffic.
I am in Alamo, 250 miles south of DFW. More light = more visual (safety). My son just total his car at 9pm last week. If there is more street light in the "Turn around only" sign or he has more bright driving light, the accident can be avoid. bad sign design in the I-10 in the dark. That is main reason I want more light in the dark or day for safety. He is walk out of car safely which is amazing for the car is total, Camry is a very safe car like Mercedes in my opinion.
 
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