Mercedes-Benz Forum banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
'83 300SD Turbo
Joined
·
77 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I am no longer a lurker. I just picked up an 83 300SD today with 232,000 in good shape for $2800. Talked him down from $4000 because of a few issues. I looked at an '84 that appeared nicer and only 184K (blue - repainted 2 years ago/ 17 wheels & tires from a late 90's SL) but: A/C inop, drivers seat controls inop, right front window inop, only drove it 1 block because it's not registered or insured but heard a loud knock from the rear over bumps, engine very shaky and really felt low on power and couldn't check the under body out. Same price but decided to go with the '83 because it runs soooo much better.

GOOD:
-Everything works except the tach which is intermittent. Will do the "coffee cup" repair to the amplifier. If that doesn't work, I'll get a new one.
-Has euro headlights.
-Trans replaced at 210K with a Benz rebuild.
-The rear seat is from a later 126 - with headrests and in very nice shape.
-Engine is sound - Barely any smoke, runs at proper temp & oil pressure. Great power. Sat for 2 weeks and started on the first twist of the key. I know the owner.
-Drives beautifully on the highway.
-14 inch Bundts with snows and 15 inch 124-style wheels with Michelins in good shape. They're chrome & peeling. I'll live with them until I deal with the issues below.
-A/C blows cold and body is sound with the exception of: See BAD.

BAD:
- Dash cap cracked. Easy replacement or just cover it ?
- The radio is crap. Will install a nice tuner and decent speakers. I have the XM Sportster.
- The valance strip under the left headlight is rusted. Replacement piece awaiting paint and install is in the trunk.
- There's a small rust hole under the right tail lamp so I assume it's cutting out the tail lamp/valance panel. Also, the trunk water channel has a small rust hole on the left side and a small one under the window about in the middle. More cutting & pulling the rear glass I'm sure, as they've almost eaten thru but those are the only body issues other than typical gray anthracite horizontal panels peeling. Even with the rust in those spots, there's no water intrusion. I just want to address them quickly. I'll respray the whole car after addressing the rust.
- Climate control blows mostly from the defrost vent & some from the floor. Vacuum leak or control head ? I have another control head if so.
- Needs rotors. Will change all 4 and bearings up front.
- Vibration from about 71 mph up. It's not constant like out of round/balance wheels/tires. It vibrates for a second or two and stops for a second or two consistently above that speed, more like a vibrating resonance. Feel it in the seat not the steering wheel. Flex disc ? Rear end ?

I knew of most of the issues except for the vibration and know it's a 24 year old car but it drives so damn good, engine & suspension wise. Most of the suspension has been replaced. Any answers would be greatly appreciated.
 

·
Registered
'83 300SD Turbo
Joined
·
77 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Not a single answer ?
 

·
Registered
2000 e320 4matic
Joined
·
3,401 Posts
It's difficult to find your questions in all that text. I will answer the cracked dash question.

1. Not an easy replacement and an expensive fix if done right. Easy fix is to get a dash cap for $100 on ebay. More professional fix is to or buy a used or new dashpad from MB. New part is at least $1500. while you're in there replace all vacuum pods for another 1500 parts and labor. That may solve the other climate control problem you are experiencing.
 

·
Registered
1991 300 SE
Joined
·
18,534 Posts
The ‘all defrost all the time’ is a vacuum leak – get the Mity Vac out and start pulling carpet.

Unfortunately the vibration could be any number of things. The most likely culprit is worn sub frame bushings. After that I’d check tranny and diff mounts, motor mounts, and the flex disc.
 

·
Registered
'83 300SD Turbo
Joined
·
77 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Drove from Wayne to Lacey Twsp and back last night, (about 170 miles) making my trip odo read 340 miles and the fuel gauge still above 1/4 tank so I went to the truck stop at the top of Rt 17 at 1am on my way home to verify the gauge's accuracy. Took 14 gallons, X 340 miles = 24mpg average.
Changed the front & rear pads & rotors yesterday. Did the DP today. Didn't get dirty at all, just a little cloudy after about 15 minutes. It ran about 45 minutes on the 2 bottles. No smoke at all. New filters afterwards. It does feel a little more responsive though. Should I assume it's that clean ? Changed the p/s fluid & filter and the belts. Alternator bolts were a bitch but smooth otherwise. Changed the warning light bulbs - dim or inop. Installed my PIAA Extreme whites for the high/low and Ion Crystal yellows for the fogs. What a difference.



Low beams - couldn't get the pic with any less glare.



Just the fogs. Unplugged the headlights. Possible to mod the headlight switch to run this way ?
 

·
Registered
'85 300TD wagon
Joined
·
22 Posts
I have an 83-300SD and can only get heat to come out. Since I am approaching summer, I am not too excited about that. Any ideas on where to start? I am not sure if just replacing the control panel will fix it, so I would like to see if I can manually put it in vent mode and see if the ac will work.
p.s. Just curious about the blackout on the license plate?
 

·
Premium Member
1990 SEC
Joined
·
4,110 Posts
I'll try to answer a couple of questions.

Rust at the bottom of the rear window is NOT fun.

I had the problem on my car and it involves removing the rear window which you need to be very carful with because a replacement is only available OEM and it costs $1,100 (plus installation and $150 for the new gasket).

The work on my car cost me $1,400, and that was without replacing the rear window, just cutting out the rusted panel, weld in a new one and prime & paint.

Imprving the audio system is an either/or type of situation.

Either you tinker with the components you have by having your Becker refurbished or replaced with a good used one, replace broken speakers with good used ones, repair cuts and shorts in the wiring, clean or replace the fader control, etc.

Or you replace all the components and the wiring.

Anything in between will prove to be frustrating and disappointing.

AdvisorGuy said:
BAD:
- Dash cap cracked. Easy replacement or just cover it ?
- The radio is crap. Will install a nice tuner and decent speakers. I have the XM Sportster.
- The valance strip under the left headlight is rusted. Replacement piece awaiting paint and install is in the trunk.
- There's a small rust hole under the right tail lamp so I assume it's cutting out the tail lamp/valance panel. Also, the trunk water channel has a small rust hole on the left side and a small one under the window about in the middle. More cutting & pulling the rear glass I'm sure, as they've almost eaten thru but those are the only body issues other than typical gray anthracite horizontal panels peeling. Even with the rust in those spots, there's no water intrusion. I just want to address them quickly. I'll respray the whole car after addressing the rust.
- Climate control blows mostly from the defrost vent & some from the floor. Vacuum leak or control head ? I have another control head if so.
- Needs rotors. Will change all 4 and bearings up front.
- Vibration from about 71 mph up. It's not constant like out of round/balance wheels/tires. It vibrates for a second or two and stops for a second or two consistently above that speed, more like a vibrating resonance. Feel it in the seat not the steering wheel. Flex disc ? Rear end ?
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top