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· Outstanding Contributor, Vintage Moderator
450slc5.0cab 280sl5sp 280se4.5 500seAMG +250seStkW108 350sl4spdX3 500secEuro 300sel5spd R+C107galore
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Discussion Starter · #101 ·
Tonight I took a video of the no start situation. It’s the first time I noticed that the lights are flashing almost as if something is shutting off as soon as the car gets combustion each time. It makes me think it’s going to start repeatedly, but of course it doesn’t.

 

· Outstanding Contributor, Vintage Moderator
450slc5.0cab 280sl5sp 280se4.5 500seAMG +250seStkW108 350sl4spdX3 500secEuro 300sel5spd R+C107galore
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Discussion Starter · #102 · (Edited)
Trying to keep all three threads updated bc I’m getting so much help in the others. Thank you forum members! :)

Anyway, I wanted to post how it is to start this thing. And this was after adding 2-3 gallons to the tank today after I got the car running when the driver front wheel was up in the air. I think sloshing around the tank helps. Next step is to add more fuel, but my wife said it felt like our house was going to take off when I took this video. I can’t do this too much at home. I need to get the car drivable and get it away from people’s homes.


My welder is needed this week at the shop where it’s been stored. Apparently it’s near out of Argon too. So I’m going to be in a bit of a pickle since I want to get the car mobile this week (before Bob arrives this Sunday). I’d really like to get this one mobile and get the w108 parts car home.


Edit (a day later). No need to bring this to the top of the forum.
I got the crunchy stuff that looked like vomit on the side of the car off today with acetone. It came off surprisingly easily with acetone.

Back hatch still not opening despite learning a lot about the central locking and putting vacuum to the rear lines. Didn’t try Pressure, but I think I should wait for the master key to arrive. So that’s what I will do.

The wagon doesn’t start easily but does start with careful modulation if the throttle pedal.

Quick shot of my “muffler” as anything I can possibly do to quiet this car down helps.

Low oil pressure. ASR comes on when idle is low. Maybe letting oxygen get to the o2 sensor and making the motor think it’s running lean. I don’t know, but did start a thread to see if anyone knows why the ASR light comes on.

Still no tach despite the fact that the tach was actually working just a few weeks ago.

And the radio doesn’t work anymore. I put the Sony faceplate back on and the lcd only flickers if I press on the face. So I never got to test the antenna, but the central locking, rear lights, and maybe the antenna doesn’t work. Maybe I severed a power supply wire for all of them when loading the car with a transmission on the front floor or maybe folding seats down. I don’t know.

Anyway, my plan is to take the car back to the mechanic’s lot tomorrow and get myself my eyesore parts car.
 

· Outstanding Contributor, Vintage Moderator
450slc5.0cab 280sl5sp 280se4.5 500seAMG +250seStkW108 350sl4spdX3 500secEuro 300sel5spd R+C107galore
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Discussion Starter · #103 · (Edited)
Just want to document a few things before I forget about them.

Yesterday morning I got the car dolly to take the wagon away from my home for a bit. But before that, I made an effort to understand the central locking and using my mighty vac on the lines that run rearward.

Wagon hatch won’t open 1992 300te
... contains a video of me being discouraged and giving up when sucking and blowing into vacuum lines.

I’m just going to wait for the master key to show up in a few days.

I was planning to try and do something with the exhaust, but instead just soaked bolts in PB Blaster to prep them for removal. I’ve got the cut downpipes and a cat from a m103 w201 which I verified most likely has the same exhaust manifolds, and has a good chance of fitting on after welding the downpipes back together. I’m going to wait to collect a used front muffler and or an entire wagon exhaust.

I learned that the tandem pump can get killed if it runs dry. So I decided I better replace the low pressure hose that was leaking. I ended up doing a quick fix and cutting the hose back about an inch or so, and then refilled the reservoir with the dirty old fluid. I learned that next time I need to drain this, I should probably just let the tandem pump do the work (rather than using my 12 volt cheap suction pump).

I was able to drive the car around the block and took a video. Starting is still REALLY HARD. It takes quite an effort when the car is cold. Is one of my pumps not running? I get a shot with the CSV I think, but maybe the EHA isn’t enriching the mixture enough when really cold. I don’t know.


Oh. I spent way too much time trying to figure out WTF was going on with the damn hood not fully closing. In the end, I latch tower on the radiator support by replacing the bolts with longer and adding washers underneath. I probably should have removed the grill for this work, but wasted tons of time with trial and error because it was hard to see what was going on. I got it to work, but it reminds me to look at why I have this problem in the first place. The bumper was broken on the passenger / tow hook side, and my assumption all along was that it too a shot there, and as a result everything is out of whack. Here’s the list I am aware of now:
  • swaybar-frame connection broken on passenger side.
  • radiator was not seated on driver side, and the entire seat might be gone on the passenger side. I seated the driver side in an attempt to lower the radiator that is flopping in the wind.
  • there’s a bar across the front that looks like a power steering cooler loop that looks bent all the way across, like I wanted the pull it down on the driver side to put the radiator where it belongs.
  • what else? Needs clips at the top of the radiator if I ever get metal lined up correctly.
  • not really related, there’s no divider between the wiper cowl and the engine bay. So the weather strip I could and “installed” is flopping in the wind in the middle. I wonder if there should be weatherstrip along the gutter.

Oh, I found a rotted spot in the driver floor where the frame rail disappears into the floor. It’s about 1-2” diameter.

And the oil pan and trans bell are both soaked in oil. I really should put something under the car where it’s currently parked. It needs an adult diaper.

I had such a hard time getting a good battery connection that I decided to leave the battery in the car until I REALLY need it for something else.

I tested some things last night and think maybe the third brake light isn’t working, and the front passenger turn signal also isn’t working. Otherwise the functions to pass inspection seem to be working, but the wipers don’t return themselves to resting position. Weird but no big deal.

I made a stick to use to prop the hook so I don’t need to set it vertical every time I open the hood. The passenger side seems to sit higher. So I assume the driver side spring is not working. Stick works for now.

I should write the sub threads I’ve got now:

HATCH WONT OPEN / CENTRAL LOCKING:
Edit: solved with master key March 2, 2021.

EXHAUST ON THE CHEAP:
Estimated distance between two existing pipes to be 3/4”.

WHAT CAUSES ASR LIGHT TO COME ON?:

I think that’s it for now. The only imminent update will be to the central locking thread when key arrives, or if I find an exhaust (not holding my breath).
 

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2016 E350 wagon; **1994 E320 wagon SOLD**
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on the MAS, that knob on top isn't a screw, its more like a cam lock. you turn the knob from '1' to '0' the long way around, and it should be unlocked and pull straight off.
 

· Outstanding Contributor, Vintage Moderator
450slc5.0cab 280sl5sp 280se4.5 500seAMG +250seStkW108 350sl4spdX3 500secEuro 300sel5spd R+C107galore
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Discussion Starter · #105 ·
on the MAS, that knob on top isn't a screw, its more like a cam lock. you turn the knob from '1' to '0' the long way around, and it should be unlocked and pull straight off.
Thank you. That is what I had assumed but didn’t want to force anything after turning the cam screw/knob. I wasn’t even sure which pins to jump if I was to get the relay out anyway.

With the hatch issue “resolved”, I believe that the exhaust and hard starting issues are the major things left. I’m slowly seeking an exhaust and with the guy in Ohio parting a 1991 wagon, I may be able to get the front and rear muffler sections. Perhaps the cat that I have from a w201 will work, and the only “custom” work required could be to attach the two (and weld the downpipes). But first I need to get a front muffler, ideally the one from the Ohio parts wagon, but any front muffler should work since it’s not a wagon specific part.
 
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