Just want to document a few things before I forget about them.
Yesterday morning I got the car dolly to take the wagon away from my home for a bit. But before that, I made an effort to understand the central locking and using my mighty vac on the lines that run rearward.
Wagon hatch won’t open 1992 300te
... contains a video of me being discouraged and giving up when sucking and blowing into vacuum lines.
I’m just going to wait for the master key to show up in a few days.
I was planning to try and do something with the exhaust, but instead just soaked bolts in PB Blaster to prep them for removal. I’ve got the cut downpipes and a cat from a m103 w201 which I verified most likely has the same exhaust manifolds, and has a good chance of fitting on after welding the downpipes back together. I’m going to wait to collect a used front muffler and or an entire wagon exhaust.
I learned that the tandem pump can get killed if it runs dry. So I decided I better replace the low pressure hose that was leaking. I ended up doing a quick fix and cutting the hose back about an inch or so, and then refilled the reservoir with the dirty old fluid. I learned that next time I need to drain this, I should probably just let the tandem pump do the work (rather than using my 12 volt cheap suction pump).
I was able to drive the car around the block and took a video. Starting is still REALLY HARD. It takes quite an effort when the car is cold. Is one of my pumps not running? I get a shot with the CSV I think, but maybe the EHA isn’t enriching the mixture enough when really cold. I don’t know.
Oh. I spent way too much time trying to figure out WTF was going on with the damn hood not fully closing. In the end, I latch tower on the radiator support by replacing the bolts with longer and adding washers underneath. I probably should have removed the grill for this work, but wasted tons of time with trial and error because it was hard to see what was going on. I got it to work, but it reminds me to look at why I have this problem in the first place. The bumper was broken on the passenger / tow hook side, and my assumption all along was that it too a shot there, and as a result everything is out of whack. Here’s the list I am aware of now:
- swaybar-frame connection broken on passenger side.
- radiator was not seated on driver side, and the entire seat might be gone on the passenger side. I seated the driver side in an attempt to lower the radiator that is flopping in the wind.
- there’s a bar across the front that looks like a power steering cooler loop that looks bent all the way across, like I wanted the pull it down on the driver side to put the radiator where it belongs.
- what else? Needs clips at the top of the radiator if I ever get metal lined up correctly.
- not really related, there’s no divider between the wiper cowl and the engine bay. So the weather strip I could and “installed” is flopping in the wind in the middle. I wonder if there should be weatherstrip along the gutter.
Oh, I found a rotted spot in the driver floor where the frame rail disappears into the floor. It’s about 1-2” diameter.
And the oil pan and trans bell are both soaked in oil. I really should put something under the car where it’s currently parked. It needs an adult diaper.
I had such a hard time getting a good battery connection that I decided to leave the battery in the car until I REALLY need it for something else.
I tested some things last night and think maybe the third brake light isn’t working, and the front passenger turn signal also isn’t working. Otherwise the functions to pass inspection seem to be working, but the wipers don’t return themselves to resting position. Weird but no big deal.
I made a stick to use to prop the hook so I don’t need to set it vertical every time I open the hood. The passenger side seems to sit higher. So I assume the driver side spring is not working. Stick works for now.
I should write the sub threads I’ve got now:
HATCH WONT OPEN / CENTRAL LOCKING:
(The main thread on this car is: Finally a w124 and a wagon owner 1992 300TE ) I’ve got a single key, and it doesn’t go all the way into the rear hatch, but I know for a fact that I was able to open in years ago. I stuffed the back of the wagon with large items like a windshield for another...
Edit: solved with master key March 2, 2021.
EXHAUST ON THE CHEAP:
(The main thread on this car is: Finally a w124 and a wagon owner 1992 300TE ) My car is a wagon I was going to part out, but changed my mindset. https://www.benzworld.org/threads/finally-a-w124-and-a-wagon-owner.2784618/page-5#post-18159783 My cat was cut off, but otherwise I am fortunate...
Estimated distance between two existing pipes to be 3/4”.
WHAT CAUSES ASR LIGHT TO COME ON?:
(The main thread on this car is: Finally a w124 and a wagon owner 1992 300TE ) I can get the light to turn off by restarting the 1992 300TE that has the cat cut off right behind the o2 sensor (wise open pipes right now). And the ASR light seems to stay off for a while, but perhaps at low idle...
I think that’s it for now. The only imminent update will be to the central locking thread when key arrives, or if I find an exhaust (not holding my breath).