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1985 300 TD 1981 300 SD
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Which pulley did you break free with the pipe wrench? The one with the fan, or the one in the forefront of the video? The one on the forefront, which is your power steering pump, is clearly turning, and is not seized, in the video. I suspect the smoke is coming off the water pump pulley and following the moving belt to the power steering pump. Recall this thread started with a fan not turning.

Anything you freed up with a pipe wrench is not fixed, and will cause you more trouble, likely sooner rather than later. If the water pump seizes you can launch the fan through the radiator, for starters.
I agree it needs a water pump asap, I hate to think of the possibility of a corroded impeller not circulating coolant while the engine is running and no one watching the temp gauge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 · (Edited)
What does “not holding an idle” mean? It stalls? It starts to idle high? Low? It starts to oscillate between high and low rpm?

Idle issues can be simple. Or they may be long and complicated. What have you replaced? Non-ethanol Gasoline? Fuel filter? Air filter? Engine vacuum lines? Any of these may cause your issue. And they’re just a starting point.
It idles low for like 10 secs then dies, we haven’t replaced the fuel filter, the air filter, or checked the vacuum lines. The air filter looks brand new.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Oh, and if that relay in your early pictures is a single fuse OVP relay (I’ve never seen one), that could cause idle issues. Everything I’ve ever read says to upgrade to the replacement OVP relay with 2 fuses.
The ovp is dead definitely but the car starts still
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Which pulley did you break free with the pipe wrench? The one with the fan, or the one in the forefront of the video? The one on the forefront, which is your power steering pump, is clearly turning, and is not seized, in the video. I suspect the smoke is coming off the water pump pulley and following the moving belt to the power steering pump. Recall this thread started with a fan not turning.

Anything you freed up with a pipe wrench is not fixed, and will cause you more trouble, likely sooner rather than later. If the water pump seizes you can launch the fan through the radiator, for starters.

I strongly suggest you get someone who knows what they're doing to look at it before things take a turn for the worse, if only to alleviate the confusion.
I think we have an electronic water pump, I’m almost positive I don’t see a mechanical water pump unless you can point it out for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I agree it needs a water pump asap, I hate to think of the possibility of a corroded impeller not circulating coolant while the engine is running and no one watching the temp gauge.
We drove it around for a while and it is not overheating, the temp gauge wasn’t climbing at all. I feel there’s a very good chance we’re looking at an electronic water pump not a mechanical
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Which pulley did you break free with the pipe wrench? The one with the fan, or the one in the forefront of the video? The one on the forefront, which is your power steering pump, is clearly turning, and is not seized, in the video. I suspect the smoke is coming off the water pump pulley and following the moving belt to the power steering pump. Recall this thread started with a fan not turning.

Anything you freed up with a pipe wrench is not fixed, and will cause you more trouble, likely sooner rather than later. If the water pump seizes you can launch the fan through the radiator, for starters.

I strongly suggest you get someone who knows what they're doing to look at it before things take a turn for the worse, if only to alleviate the confusion.
on a side note, maybe since I’m a noob and I don’t know anything, do you think the water pump is behind the fan pulley and it’s being driven by that fan pulley?
 

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1989 300SE 240k miles
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For days now people have told you that belt works the steering pump and the water pump. Why on god’s green earth would believe you have an electric water pump?

If you had this much difficulty this far, there’s almost no chance of you figuring out the injection system. And you need to really find out if the water pump is bad. Before you do anything else. If it is, you’ll ruin that engine quickly.

That’s a car that deserves to be saved. Don’t destroy it.
Best of luck.
 

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on a side note, maybe since I’m a noob and I don’t know anything, do you think the water pump is behind the fan pulley and it’s being driven by that fan pulley?
Yes the water pump is behind the pulley
You don’t have an electric water pump
 

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1985 500sel and 500sec 2012 E63 1989 Porsche 911
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u have electric windows....your water pump is not
 
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Be careful, if the water pump is not turning, the temperature gauge possibly won't rise. No coolant flow for the hot liquid to go anywhere.
 

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'17 GLS450, '14 GLK250 "Grandpa's Roadster" Project Car, 350SDL (Sold)
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The pulley labeled "C" by isthenew drives the water pump. The bearing is in the "snout" with the hole, right behind the pulley. The actual pump is in the housing behind that. with the big honking coolant hose coming out. The bearing is what seized, probably because coolant leaked past the water pump seal into the bearing. Eventually, the shaft will shear, the water pump will stop turning, and the fan will go through the radiator.

Or, there could have been a wasp nest behind the pulley that stopped it from turning, and everything will be fine, but I doubt it.

If the water pump pulley doesn't turn freely and smoothly, you can bet the pump is bad. Even if it does, I'd still bet it's bad. You really need someone knowledgeable to look at it. For screening purposes, ask them to take a look at the electronic water pump. If they do, don't trust them.

I'm all in favor if doing it yourself, and learning, and stretching your horizons, but you need to start with the basics and understand when you're in over your head.
 

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Your car has been sitting for 15 years so it’s understandable everything rusted and stuck together , and you are unsticking things

you’ll need a new water pump sooner than later so decide if you want to change it before it fails , or if you want to wait for a failure to happen at a bad moment
 

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'92 W124 230E Auto
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Judging by the pic, your waterpump and idler pulley (bottom right) haven't been turning. Are they both turning now? Anything that was seized, needs to be replaced ASAP.
 

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'91 560SEC, '91 300SE (sold), '98 Yota, '02 S-10 Hauler
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I think we have an electronic water pump, I’m almost positive I don’t see a mechanical water pump unless you can point it out for me.
The water pump is what the fan and pulley attach to, Item "C" in previous pics
 

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Mercedes 560SL 1987 Mercedes 560SL 1988 Audi Q7 4.2 2008
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The water pump is what the fan and pulley attach to, Item "C" in previous pics
Yanni a car being sitting for 15 years need more then simply a starter key and a wrench.
Before the first fire you need to change ALL fluids. (Oil, Cooling Liquid, Brake fluid) Replacing the oil and fuel filter to prevent clogging the lines.
Cleaning the micro filter at the fuel distributor to be sure that you get enough fuel. Checking the fuel tank from inside to avoid that rust particles clogg the strainer. Fuel being in a tank for 15 years can be called everything else but not fuel. You complain that the idle is rough and the car stalls after 10 seconds. Without doing the basics first there will be no clear advice what is causing the challenge. And yes as mentioned several times before the water pump is a mechanical pump driven exactly by the pulley marked C on your picture. Replacing all belts after 15 years could be also a good idea. Just to be sure that the the cooling circle is working properly you have to check the thermostat whether it is opening or not. Your comment that the temperature is not rising can be caused by a failing thermostate. Simply take it out of the water pump put it in a pot of water and heat it up. The opening temperature is stamped on the thermostate. If it is not opening it need to be replaced. Additionally replacing the fuel injectors including the injector housing and seal is recommended. Same applies for spark plugs, rotor and distributor cap. Visual check from the spark plug cables regarding cracks in the rubber or corrosion in the plug. Replacing of all related fuel injection idle air hoses is vital. Checking all vacuum hoses and the connectors for cracks. Checking the electrical temp probes and the vacuum valves and switches.
These are the basic necessities before you should turn the key. Everything else is suicidal and can kill the engine.
 

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It’s apparent he does not want to tackle any involved engine work. The guy bought a car sitting for fifteen or whatever years for next to nothing and wants to keep it that way it seems.
 
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