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1972 280CE
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4,198 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I spent the best part of three hours today trying to get the crank position sensor out of the bell housing on my 88 euro 560 with no luck. I applied so much pressure that I broke most of it off which also does not help.

It turns easily but refuses to come out from the top. I can get my hand around it from underneath but not enough to be able to pry it out.

Any ideas would be gratefully appreciated.
 

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1972 280CE
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4,198 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Hi, thanks! I pulled that bolt and the two top bolts and it turns left pretty much 360 degrees freely just not out! I used a set of very long nose pliers on it with no luck and eventually broke the front and back of it so now there is just the section that sits above the sensor.

I sprayed some WD40 down there hoping it will help and will leave it for a couple of days. Hopefully if should loosen up enough to pull it when i go back there.
 

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You can not pull that straight out. You MUST pull and twist at the same time. Keep at that and you'll have it out. There's no difference in removal from my W124 coupe (was stuck just like that). You'll find installing is exactly like removal - a total PITA. I went in the hole with a battery terminal brush and brushed like there was no tomorrow. Afterward, I greased up the hole and with the same twisty motion, the sensor slid in.
 

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1989 560SEL, 1979 Cressida MX32, 2006 F150 Lariat
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1,507 Posts
to twist and pull makes sense, if you think about it for a minute, all the years of use coupled with all the roadgrime and other debris that gets thrown around in the bell housing is getting thrown right at the tip of the CPS thus forming a ring like seal. I will look at the spare 5.6ltr engine i bought last week. it still has the CPS in its position with the plastic cover over it. I will see what it takes to jimmy it out while I watch to see what falls off the end as I remove it from the engine.
 

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1972 280CE
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4,198 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys, I'll take another stab this weekend. I'm having trouble titling the car because for some reason, it comes up as a 2001 Mercedes in the Texas DOT databases (even though the vin starts with WDB126) so I need to get it inspected by the auto theft division. It's a fun effort that takes up most of your day. I'd rather drive the car up there then have to trailer it.
 

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90 420SEL 240,000 miles strong
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557 Posts
You got lucky, try stripping that Allen head screw....talk a bout a long day that turns into, dont ask me how i know
 

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1972 280CE
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4,198 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
You got lucky, try stripping that Allen head screw....talk a bout a long day that turns into, dont ask me how i know
It did to one in the junk yard that I was trying to pull of a 91 560SEL and then walked away and bought a new one.

Seems too easy. I soaked the allen bolt with lubricant on mine in order to avoid it as I wasnt keen on destroying that bolt.
 

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They weld themselves into the housing..you'll have to drop the trans to get it out.


Just had this problem on a 560SL, that sucked.

Jonathan
 

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1972 280CE
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4,198 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I got the mount out and then was able to knock the last part of the crank position sensor off but the car still would not start. I pulled the cap and it was broken in the middle. The rotor was also lifted from it's position and rotated 180 with it's arse end broken clean off.

I put a replacement cap on and attached the rotor carefully and checked the plug wires which were very tatty and in need of replacement. Some were cross wired. But that did not solve the spark problem. I was able to attach a spark box to the system (took that generates a constant spark pulse) and start the engine.

Next step was the coil which solved the problem. Car ran great after that and I was able to drive it. Next step is to get a new rotor and plugs, plug wires and some hydraulic oil and then get the car inspected so that I can title it.
 

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1989 560SEL, 1979 Cressida MX32, 2006 F150 Lariat
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Good job there Al, odd though how the cap and rotor ended up like they did. I just bought all new wires, cap and rotor for my 560SEL along with a new rubber intake boot and all new vac line/connetors/intake donuts. though I have not installed any of my new parts yet due to the fact that I am going to be taking the complete intake and related parts off to do a complete rebuild of the intake/air/feul systems in a couple of weeks. I will be looking for a 90/91 SEC to put my spare engine into later this year. my cap and rotor(Bosch)was$137.00 shipped and I went with Kingsborne ignition wires for $108.00 shipped to me. I chose the red 7mm and the neat thing is they have the protective wrap around them like the factory wires came with. good luck getting the car registered Al.
 

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1972 280CE
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4,198 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Thanks, I picked up some hydraulic fluid as the reservoir was empty and topped it up but there was no fluid coming out of the return so I suspect that they may have converted this car to full springs. I'll be able to get a better look once I get it on the lift.

Tomorrow, I plan to pick up some plugs, plug wires a rotor, oil filter and some oil and give it a quick service, then change the starter motor during the week as the one on the car works only part time.

It's nice to have a running car at the hobby shop. I'm getting too old to push these things in an out. Next week I plan to part out the Euro 500SEL that I bought a couple of months ago and put the engine in the 500SEC with the AMG body kit as I suspect that this car has a bad head gasket (cylinders had water). Then I'll have two running cars in the shop :)
 

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1990 Mercedes-Benz 420se japanese/european model
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35 Posts
can some one help me out by sending me a pic of a 1990 mercedes 420se crankshaft sensor. i bought one but i want to make sure they look the same.
 

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1983-2007 MB's
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8,015 Posts
Mclare's got a dilemma - his CPS sensor looks mint, but has 190k on it. Best to replace? Or are these simple enough designed to work (for most of) the life duration of the car?

What would the symptoms of a failing CPS show up as?
 

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1990 Mercedes-Benz 420se japanese/european model
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35 Posts
hi i have a 1990 mercedes 420se euro model. my car wouldnt start because there was no spark so i bought a used EZL BOSCH: 0 227 400 710 MERCEDES: 007 545 22 32. this EZL was hard to find because it was japanese and rare but still there is no spark so i bought a new crankshaft positioning sensor. now i need to know if the cps has to be of the japanese type also because im not sure if it will connect to the ezl or if it does. some help would be very much appreciated. thanks
 

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1990 Mercedes-Benz 420se japanese/european model
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35 Posts
Thank u that is the exact part I bought. I wasn't sure if it would connect to my ezl or maybe it doesn't. But that is what I have and I'm getting a mechanic to instal it today.
 

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Good job there Al, odd though how the cap and rotor ended up like they did. I just bought all new wires, cap and rotor for my 560SEL along with a new rubber intake boot and all new vac line/connetors/intake donuts. though I have not installed any of my new parts yet due to the fact that I am going to be taking the complete intake and related parts off to do a complete rebuild of the intake/air/feul systems in a couple of weeks. I will be looking for a 90/91 SEC to put my spare engine into later this year. my cap and rotor(Bosch)was$137.00 shipped and I went with Kingsborne ignition wires for $108.00 shipped to me. I chose the red 7mm and the neat thing is they have the protective wrap around them like the factory wires came with. good luck getting the car registered Al.
HI Grumpy, I've heard such glowing reports of your generosity I'm going to jump in here with a couple of "Crank, no Spark" questions. My 1988 560 SEL (that sat for six months with water in the interior floor, molding up all seat wires, etc.) has a Crank No Start problem. I was trying to diagnose a parasitic drain issue, made the mistake of driving the car to Swan's Island Maine (ferry access) and am now in a pickle. 1) Replaced the ignition coil (I cleaned but did not yet replace fuel pump relay and other obvious and easy checks (fuses). The mystery is this: The EZL including the CPS, were replaced by previous owner. (Which doesn't mean they haven't been fried again). So, I'm ready to try the CPS again and was sent the wrong one by Amazon (Bosch 0261210055.
2612573
this is a coax cable about 3' with correct sensor, but WITHOUT THE METAL PIECE which attaches to the rear of the engine before turning to the final bolt holding the sensor. Question: I do need the part with the metal piece that the cable goes through en route to the sensor, right? What is that part number? And where can I get it? Any other advice about the "second brain behind the passenger kick panel" relays or other trouble-shooting in a Crank, No Spark situation eagerly sought. 'thanks Doug Day with 560 SEL on island in Maine.
wrong part; cable too short, no metal piece mid-length
 

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1991 560sec. 1969 280SL
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990 Posts
That’s a very old thread. The correct crank sensors part number is 0001538820 and is NLA I would try and make what you bought work. I think you should be able to extend the cable.
 
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