. Ive never seen these before (but there is a lot of Mercedes stuff I’ve never seen). Are they actually for wheel covers? I’ve also never seen a 129 with wheel covers.
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This is the style of lug on my Monkars:
Note: these are 2nd hand replacement Monkars and the lug head sits recessed about 1" in the hole on the wheel when installed and they look fine.
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I have seen some Monkars with the lug sitting just below the surface of the wheel, suggesting a longer headed lug which was also very common on the Gullidekel wheel of the 80's and 90's. But you may not want that old Gullidekel style lug because the head could shear off as they age and if ever overtorqued (not super common, but it does happen if you follow the R107 forum). Perhaps somebody started making the extended head style you show in your picture as an answer the this problem.
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Note: these are 2nd hand replacement Monkars and the lug head sits recessed about 1" in the hole on the wheel when installed and they look fine.
I have seen some Monkars with the lug sitting just below the surface of the wheel, suggesting a longer headed lug which was also very common on the Gullidekel wheel of the 80's and 90's. But you may not want that old Gullidekel style lug because the head could shear off as they age and if ever overtorqued (not super common, but it does happen if you follow the R107 forum). Perhaps somebody started making the extended head style you show in your picture as an answer the this problem.
I bought these "things" six years ago from the linked seller. Not sure whether they send to the US - email and ask.
20x UNIVERSAL RADSCHRAUBE KUGELBUND R12 BOLZEN M12x1,5 x 95mm NEU | eBay
20x UNIVERSAL RADSCHRAUBE KUGELBUND R12 BOLZEN M12x1,5 x 95mm NEU | eBay
Thanks for finding those. I contacted the seller and was told the $120 shipping was the only option. At $200, not sure I will go this route with the titanium original design available for $325 within the US. I have pulled these lugs within the last 5 years without any issues and keep procrastinating on getting them replaced.
Current thinking is that the older or original style bolts are not desirable, they tend to break just above the rounded seat. I pulled mine out about 5 years ago for new tires all around and they came off fine. But if someone overtorques these or maybe just has plain bad luck, they break and can be a real pain. The most common and least expensive approach is to use the shorter bolts that don't have the extension, but I may very well just treat the mating surface with anti seize and keep them original. And maybe even send them out to be hardened, several metal shops in my area. Or do nothing. Probably do nothing.
I had the old style long bolts and when I came to change a wheel I could feel the bolts twisting. I think I came very close to a sheared bolt. Junked them and fitted normal short headed bolts. Work fine and don't notice.
If hydrogen embrittlement has taken hold, surface hardening probably won’t help none unless they are annealed first. In 2008 I tried re-plating the corroded bolts on my 1992 500SL, but realised soon afterwards I had inadvertently introduced more hydrogen during the acid pickling and plating, so I wouldn’t advise doing this. Shame, as the original iridium silver capped bolts did look good. I got shorter bolts from MB.
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