I’m definitely “there” on the concept of letting this car go today.
After the recurrence of death wobbly with the spacers and crap tire Lorinser rs90, I went hunting for the set of 15” our pan wheels to mount. I was pretty close to setting up a set of 4-5 chrome wheels (lowest value IMO) it’s usable tires. The fact that a new (and matching) set of new cheap 205/65/15 can be had at Walmart or eBay for $180 has me thinking it’s stupid to waste time mounting mismatched used tires, especially when this car is obviously going to be sensitive to bad balancing or runout. I was wasting time thinking about what wheels. I think that it probably does make sense to buy new tires if I’m mounting up chrome 15”. But would that dove my problem? Possibly not. So what do I want to do?
I’m pulling some 15” painted (low value) wheels off a 1986 300se I’ve got that has a coolant leak near the oil filter that looks like a real pain to fix. That car won’t be seeing highway time any time soon, so the ghetto Lorinser rs90 can go on there, even if the fronts require spacers to clear its tierods.
Of course one of the extended head lugs didn’t want to break free despite me torquing these bolts on the 300se myself not too long ago. I loosened all the other lugs in that wheel and went for a drive cornering and accelerating and engine braking to try and stretch that stuck extended head lug. Then I tightened the other four lugs, drove some more, and finally got the bolt to come free with a snap. Shwew!
You guys can see your logic of “get rid of that car or part it out” is decent logic when so much time is spent even thinking about death wobble solutions.
I was talking to a mechanic yesterday, and he said “CASTER BOXES”, and I think I may agree with him that that’s possibly the root, or maybe another part that has rattled loose due to driving with death rattle. It’s kid of like: whatever has caused your death rattle maybe doesn’t matter. It’s more like, “you’ve experienced death rattle. Now everything in your front end has been loosened up, and it wot ever be right again.”
Sure, there may be things that could be done to hopefully solve the problem temporarily, like:
- careful alignment
- perfectly balanced wheels
- any obviously bad suspension parts (like in my case a driver ball joint).
But even doing these things will probably only fix the death rattle until some other outside fence is introduced, like a bump while cornering at speed, or a weight falling off a wheel, etc.
So my goal is to be able to:
A) drive the car about 15-25 miles down the highway to my sister’s farm
B) tell a buyer that they can drive the car on the highway, but to watch out for death wobble and that the whole front suspension should be replaced (with the exception of the two new tie rods).
My idle issues seems solved after simply removing the plug to the IACV. The idle rarely is above 900-1000 rpm. Changing the timing does affect it a little, unlike when the IACV is connected (when the idle is constantly too low, under 500). That’s not right. The mechanic I was talking to (that told me about the caster boxes) also mentioned that something must be out of whack on that car. I wonder if maybe the air pump has gone squirrelly and is somehow stealing idle air. I think this issue didn’t present itself until I sold the car to my handyman and got it back. It makes me wonder if maybe the plug was always disconnected and he reconnected it while he had it. I may have to check my videos of the car when purchased if I really care. I know I idled it all the way home (2.5-3 hours) on the dolly when I bought it. So it’s not like I never let it warm up before.
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