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W126 1990 500SE (ASR) & W126 1991 300SE
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Discussion Starter #1
Exhaust Manifold Removal/Respray 1991 300SE (M103)

These forums are really useful for the amateur mechanic! I'm grateful for all the help I've had here, so I am making this contribution in the hope that it will help someone in the future. Disclaimer: I'm a complete novice with limited tools and even more limited knowledge! I plan to have all the parts and tools that I'll need before I start any job, but invariably things do not go as planned. A delay normally ensues while I await new parts or tools, so hopefully someone else can benefit from my mistakes and bad luck! :)

All work carried out on a 1991 W126 300SE, which has the M103.981 engine (Mileage 92,000)

Inspired by ChrisFix painting a rocker cover -
I decided to give this a go, as my engine bay looks pretty tired. 20180718_075121.jpg


It was 'ok' but I was not satisfied with the removal of paint by hand, and also that a shiny new rocker cover made everything else look even worse - especially the rusty old manifolds.
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I decided that I would take off the battery tray, a known place for corrosion and trapping of leaves & dirt. Well, it is known now that I read Nik Greene's book. Along with that, I would sandblast and respray the rocker cover, air cleaner cover, and the exhaust manifolds.

The manifolds looked a little daunting, but how hard can it be? I did plenty of research and ordered up the following parts:
Exhaust Manifold Gasket (103 142 14 80) x 5
Exhaust Manifold Gasket (103 142 13 80) x 1
Engine Studs (111 990 04 05) x 13
Hexagon Nut (120 142 00 72) x 13
Manifold to Downpipe Bolts (N304017 008053) x 4
Rivet Nut (000 990 25 52) x 4
Rivet Nut Tool (103 589 01 39 00) x 1

The manifolds sit on 13 studs that go into the head. There are 6 separate gaskets between the head and the manifolds. On each stud sits a hexagon nut with a flange, actually on receiving the new parts, one can see that they are not perfectly round. Turns out that they are called a 'prevailing torque nut'. Not sure on the ins and outs of this, so hopefully someone will chime in, but I expect it is to stop them rattling loose? The other end of the manifolds are bolted to the downpipes, and there is no gasket between the manifolds and downpipes. They are held in place by a long threaded bolt inserted from underneath, through a flange, through the manifold, and then into a rivet nut (a nut that has a square outer edge to prevent it turning against the manifold). A special tool is required to set the rivet nut in place, but more on this later.
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I started by undoing the hex nuts holding the manifolds to the head. I believe the manifolds are made of cast iron, and was expecting them to be quite heavy, so my reasoning was that I could get a manifold off the engine while it was supported by its connection with the downpipe, then finally hold onto it with one hand while disconnecting it from the downpipe. I started with the larger manifold, nearest to the front of the car. No problem! It's possible to get a socket (12mm deep or semi-deep) on each of the 6 hex nuts. Because mine were corroded pretty badly, or maybe it is to be expected in all cases, the nut does not loosen off and make it's way back along the threaded stud. Instead, loosening the nut simply unscrews the stud from the head. Not an issue, as long as you have new studs and nuts to replace them with. Incidentally, I did not have plans to turn this into a 'how to' thread until after I encountered problems, so apologies for not having decent step-by-step photos.

Lossening the bolts that connect the downpipe is a real pain. There is not enough space to get a regular tool onto them from the top. I had a go at them with a 13mm crow's foot (actually a 1/2 inch crow's foot was a better fit) and an extension, but once I put the extension on, there was not enough room to get onto the bolt. In other words, my crow's foot was too short - yours may have a slightly bigger gap between the open end and the ratchet hole. I got my hands on a torque converter that I thought would do a better job (it's longer) and might also come in handy later when trying to torque the bolts back on. Incidently, the rivet nuts did not move on me, so it was 'simply' a case of unscrewing those bolts, to free up the manifold. With tiny movements and some patience, I eventually got them out. As it turned out the manifold was strongly wedged into the downpipe, even after the bolts were removed, so a sharp twist freed it up and off it came!

Note: I think the M103 on the W201 has some kind of sensor between, or attached to one of the manifolds, so you may need to look into this if you have a W201.

The rear manifold was another story altogether! Note that this manifold is smaller, but has an additional stud and nut at the rear, and a differently shaped gasket at that end. It is not possible to get a socket onto the nuts that run along the top. Oh dear. Hmmmm, ok I do have box ends! Off I went with a 12mm box end, and managed to free up all but one nut, which instead rounded off.

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This was the situation I found myself in.

Oh, I covered up the holes with foil, just to stop anything getting there. And, that's the rocker cover with the dodgy paintwork. You can see tool marks all over the place, where the paint has already been damaged!

So, one nut has not moved, and got rounded by the box end spanner. There is another stud, with nut on, that has come out of the head, but cannot be removed due to a clearance issue. Not a problem, because it is definitely out of the head, and I'll worry about that once I get the manifold off the engine.

In hindsight, all of the fiasco that is about to follow could probably have been avoided if I had used a 6-point box end. In fact, even at this stage, with the nut slightly rounded, I may have been able to get a 6-point box end on there and still turned it. However, I didn't have one (or any patience) and instead asked for advice to remove a rounded off nut. The answers came back as a nut breaker or turbo sockets. Turbo sockets are out because there is no way to get a ratchet in there, but I did find a kind of box end turbo that I believed would do nicely. I also got a nut breaker just in case!

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If only we could go back to this, I wonder if a 6-point would have gone on there! Probably.

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How can this not be the most perfect tool for this job? Right???

By the time the removal tools showed up I had already tried heat, cold, soaking in penetrating fluid overnight, and lots and lots of swearing. But the damn thing never budged at all.

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Yes, it does fit on there, and no I cannot get a box end onto it. But, I can fit an open ended spanner on there, which should be good enough. The problem is, turbo sockets, just like these things, need to be tapped into place to ensure they get a good bite on the offending nut. However, there was NO WAY IN HELL to tap the tool into place. I could press hard, I could hammer from the top (while the bottom slipped off, or vice versa) but I could not get the tool securely onto the nut. So, no matter how hard I pressed it on, once I started turning, it just turned itself right off the nut!!

Continues in chapter 2: The Nutcracker Suite.
 

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W126 1990 500SE (ASR) & W126 1991 300SE
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Discussion Starter #2
So, next step was to try the nut splitter. This is the one I got: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000LFXN94

The smaller of the two didn't quite fit properly, so I ground the edge of it slightly, and it was possible to get it onto the nut, but only in one position. During this whole episode, the splitter failed a few times, by the splitting section becoming frozen to the bottom piece, and subsequently turning every time I tried to tighten the bolt. Still, after much perseverance I did manage to at least damage the nut!

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What I had not anticipated, was that because the nut had a flange on it, cracking the hex part did not mean that the nut was now going to fall away from the threaded stud.

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Perhaps if I had been able to get the splitter on at different angles, I could have removed enough of the nut to make it moveable. So, now what? I considered other options, like selling the car, or suicide etc. But then I remembered that I had a Dremel tool that I had purchased some time before. I thought it might come in handy at some point!

Same bloody problem of course, no room to move, cannot get the tool into the right spot, can only get to one side of the bolt, and even then from only one angle. If you've read this far, you're probably suffering at the length of this tale. But after all the pain, stress, indigestion and disturbed sleep I went though, it's only right that you should suffer too!

Dremel.png

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So, here's how it looked after a little grinding. Also tried a hacksaw blade and various other tools, including but not limited to hammering it off with a chisel.

Still doesn't move. But then I had another idea! I could use the Dremel tool to cut a slot in the thread, and then turn it out using a screwdriver.

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Well, this didn't work either. Instead of turning, when I turned the screwdriver it just made the slot bigger, and looked like it would just break if I put too much pressure. I was getting concerned at this point! But I decided to stick with this plan and just continue grinding as much of the nut away as I could, in the confined space, and using several different attachments. Eventually I got it down to almost nothing:

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And finally it DID unscrew from the slot I had made in the thread! Hallelujah!!!

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I decided that the easiest way to get the other thread & nut out was just to cut off the end of the stud using the Dremel, which was a 30sec job.

So, the lesson here was to use a 6-point box end where a socket will not fit. They're actually not that common, with most box ends being 12-point. Mind you, the 12-point did work on every other nut, so perhaps I was slightly unlucky - particularly as it was so difficult to get any tool onto it that could have fixed the problem in its aftermath.

Next up: painting and refit.
 

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1990 190e 2.6
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Thankfully I will only be removing the front manifold. I was considering taking both off for a repaint but this post made me decide otherwise.
I laughed when you considered selling the car. I’m the same way whenever I strip or break a bolt.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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W126 1990 500SE (ASR) & W126 1991 300SE
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Discussion Starter #4
This wasn't meant to be a painting thread, so I'll just show you what I used and some photos:

Steps taken
Sandblasting done using dry grit, by a local company
Primer - VHT Engine Enamel SP148
Colour coat - VHT Engine Metallic SP403
Clear coat - VHT Engine Enamel SP145

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I thought about masking up the back, but I didn't want to leave any bare metal, plus there is a gasket between this part and the engine block, so I hope it won't be an issue. I did stuff some foil in to cover the holes, but does it really matter if paint gets inside? Wasn't sure, so put it in anyway.

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Sandblasted

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Primed

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Done

About sandblasting: Grit is a fast and cheap way to go. I was quoted an enormous price to have them wet-blasted using some kind of glass beads, but I don't recommend this. The moment any kind of wet blasting finishes, these will start to rust. There are all different kinds of media that can be used, and different methods, none of which I am very familiar with. But apparently the more expensive method will leave a nice shiny finish on smooth metals (not applicable here) so that you can leave the part unpainted if you wanted to. Grit leaves a slightly rough surface, but this suited my needs as it will only help the paint to stick.

When reading up about the painting process, many sources say that clear coat is not necessary, and some don't even bother with primer. I decided to do it this way and hope that it holds up! Also, VHT call this colour 'Titanium Silver Blue' but it has turned out much bluer than I had hoped for. I was going for a chome look (just like the colour on the lid of the aerosol :grin). Still, it is definitely an improvement over the previous look.

Well, I've used up a lot of my image allowance here, so I'll do another post for the refit!
 

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W126 1990 500SE (ASR) & W126 1991 300SE
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Discussion Starter #5
Thankfully I will only be removing the front manifold. I was considering taking both off for a repaint but this post made me decide otherwise.
I laughed when you considered selling the car. I’m the same way whenever I strip or break a bolt.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You shouldn't be put off - The results are really satisfying! As long as you get hold of a 6-point box end, you shouldn't have any issues with the rear one.
 

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W126 1990 500SE (ASR) & W126 1991 300SE
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Discussion Starter #6
First tip with refitting the manifolds....the flanges slide down the exhausts, so you should tape these in place because they're really awkward to get back into place (sadly I found this out the hard way).

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This is the only example pic I could find - see the downpipe of the front manifold has blue tape holding the flange in place so it stays within easy reach.

The first task is to install the new rivet nuts into the manifold. Mercedes make a special tool for this:

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At the top is the special tool. The new rivet nuts are shown from both sides, and this is the torque adapter that I mentioned in the first post.

Unfortunately I didn't make any photos of the process to install the rivet nuts, and I found it a little tricky. I kept the manifold wrapped in bubble wrap during everything, in order to avoid damaging the new paint. I then sat with the manifold at the same angle as pictured above, sitting on my leg. The rivet nut is put in place, as seen in the photo...actually let's find a close up of that....
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So, the rivet nut sits in there, while you insert the special tool from below, just as the threaded bolt will eventually go. As you tighten the special tool, it will flare open the nut so that it stays in place later on. You will need a torque wrench for this, and the correct setting is 30Nm. The difficulty is that because you are pushing from below, the rivet nut has a tendency to rise out of its hole. If this happens, even by the tiniest amount, it allows the nut to turn and round off. Of the 4 nuts that need to be placed, 2 were easy, one was a little tricky, and one resulted in me having to order a new rivet nut. Unfortunately I don't remember which was the difficult one, and this will also depend on the exact shape of your manifold - but I recommend getting a few extra of these inexpensive nuts just in case. If you look at the one in the photo above, you can see that the rivet nut would have to rise quite a bit before it would be able to turn. Therefore this was one of the easy ones. The solution is to press down on the rivet nut while you are tightening the tool from below. Any readers with two pairs of hands will find the job quite straightforward.

Once I had all these nuts in place, I then installed all the studs into the engine block. These should be hand tight. I did quite a bit of reading on this, and some people stated torque values for them. I am convinced, however, that these should be hand tightened. Firstly because Mercedes do not provide torque settings in the manual, and secondly after reading this post: https://www.benzworld.org/forums/r-c107-sl-slc-class/1576417-exhaust-manifold-stud-torque.html#post4630170

Some people advise running a tap through to clean all the threads first. This is probably a good idea, but I didn't have one, so I made do with blasting each hole with brake cleaner and then compressed air. The threads mostly went in ok, but the occasional one had a little tight spot here and there. The way around this is to use a double nut. Thread two nuts onto the exposed end of the stud, lock them together by turning them against each other. You can then tighten the 2nd nut using an open ended spanner, and the thread will tighten. You should not need very much force at all to do this, so if it feels stuck then you should back off and investigate. Oh, while we're on the double-nut subject, I forget to mention that I tried this to remove that rounded off bolt! There wasn't enough length on the thread to fit two nuts! I then purchased half thickness M8 nuts, thinking that this would work! They went on there, but because they held such little thread, they did not have enough strength to move the stud, and instead stripped the thread of the bolt hahaha.

So, once those were all in place, I put the gaskets into place (you cannot get this wrong because they have a metal lip that sticks out, preventing you from installing them back to front). Then I mounted the rear manifold into the downpipe hole, and put it onto the studs. I put the hex bolts on just part way, to hold the manifold in place. Then I got to work on getting the downpipe bolts through the manifold and rivet nuts.

I can save you all the trouble of messing around with crow's feet and torque adaptors. You really cannot get those bolts in and torque them properly from the top. The only way is to jack the car up and get underneath. In fact, this was also true of removing the rear manifold bolts. Once you are under there, doing the front manifold bolts are easier too. If you are only installing a front manifold, then it might be possible to torque it from the top using the tool I showed, but I did not try this. I hand tightened the botls from the top, and then got under the car to finish the job. So, the process I used was:

Studs in, gaskets on, put rear manifold into downpipe and onto studs, install hex nuts about half way, hand tighten downpipe bolts into rivet nuts, tighten hex nuts almost all the way. Repeat process with front manifold. Get under the car to torque downpipe bolts to 25Nm. Interestingly this did not leave a uniform amount of thread emerging from each rivet nut, which I am curious about. I calibrated the torque wrench myself just last week, so I know it is accurate. It is also impossible to bend the flange or manifold with these kinds of forces. The bolts are the same length as the previous ones. I double checked the photos and certainly on the rear manifold the thread lengths coming out of the rivet nut were not uniform either, but I seem to have more thread coming through. I have concluded that the likeliest explanation is that they were not torqued correctly before, and it's true that they did not seem particularly tight when removing them.

Getting under the car to torque those bolts was a real pig of a job. I used a long extension, a universal joint, and a 13mm socket. It's quite tricky to get the socket onto the rear manifold bolts, and it tends to slip off when you start turning. Much patience required.

Ok, that's as far as I have got! The next step is to go back and fully torque the hex nuts on the studs. The ones on the front manifold will be very easy, but I bought a 12mm crow's foot for the rear ones. I wanted to finish up tonight, but it got dark, and the car is outside. I'll be back with before and after photos once everything is done! :grin

Oh, quick safety tips for any novice attempting this:

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Don't trust the jack to stay in place - use axle stands. Personally I don't trust those either, so I use blocks of railway sleeper too.
Put the rear handbrake on, and chock the rear wheels
Use the jack on the crossmember that is part of the chassis
Tell someone what you're doing, and get them to stand nearby if possible. Plus they can watch the rivet nuts and tell you if they start turning when you turn the bolts, because if they do you'll have a problem. This was one problem I didn't have in the end!
 

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1989 W124 260E
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Good post and information is spot on . My manifold nut and bolt heads look just like yours before you removed them .My idea is to have them vitrus enameled eventualy .A good job done ..
 

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W126 1990 500SE (ASR) & W126 1991 300SE
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Discussion Starter #9
This is my engine bay,, not the same car but engine is the M103.
That looks much nicer than mine!


Ok, so this started out as a how-to, and has ended up with me needing some more help! I finally put evrything back together, and the car seemed to start and run perfectly. After about 2-3min of running, the manifolds started to smoke, and the paint discoloured. Basically it seemed that the paint was burning. The smoke was getting worse, so I've switched the engine off, but cannot figure out what the problem is. The paint is VHT engine enamel - good for 550°F. How could this happen?

I really appreciate any advice.

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Before starting the engine

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After the engine had run for 2-3min

UPDATE: Really sickened by the waste of time and money I spent on this project. I've sent messages to the manufacturer and the seller of the paint, to see what they will say - I'll let you know. Meanwhile I guess I'll run the engine until all that junk burns off, so that I can at least keep using the car.

On the plus side, all the other jobs I did while the car was in bits seem to have gone well!
 

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W201 Moderator
89 190E2.6- 5-speed Manual, 95 E320 Sportsline-sold, 2001 E320 4matic Wagon-sold
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2,318 Posts
Sorry to hear Martin, that was a lot of work and thanks for capturing all that.

I'm not a fan of painting the exhaust manifolds. They run much much hotter than the engine block which must be in the 100c - 120c. I suspect the exhaust manifold is at least twice that temperature perhaps more. I'm sure there is paint made for this application but they generally look "out of place" and not original.
I would much prefer whatever the finish was that came with the original manifolds (the light gray mat finish).Is there any way to re-apply that same finish?

I myself, found a car that was garaged most of its life in dry California (at the JY) and had no rust on it and replaced mine. Mine was not too rusted either but this one looked almost new.

So does anyone know what is the finish on the original manifold and can it be refreshed with that finish now? Or is that a one time application when manifolds are cast?
 

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W126 1990 500SE (ASR) & W126 1991 300SE
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Discussion Starter #11
I'm not a fan of painting the exhaust manifolds.
Neither am I!!!! :grin

I think the original finish might be a white ceramic coating. I've seen companies offering this, but had hoped to have a chrome look to them. Funny, I do usually prefer stock looking things. Now that I will have to remove them and repaint...maybe I'll reconsider. I certainly won't be putting the same paint as before.
 

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W201 Moderator
89 190E2.6- 5-speed Manual, 95 E320 Sportsline-sold, 2001 E320 4matic Wagon-sold
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2,318 Posts
The original coating sort of blended in with the rest like the cylinder head. Here is mine when I had the valve cover taken off for refinishing.
You can see it is starting to change color in some spots so I would like to just brush-up/refresh those areas without taking the manifolds off if the original coating is available.

Would like to know if anyone has tried that.

- Cheers
 

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MB 300SE '90, anthrazite grey, black leather
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183 Posts
I once tried painting those too with them in place. A bit of sanding, covering and spraying with heat resistant paint (800°C as I recall, the highest temp I could find at the local shop). Did not take too long until all the paint was burned off...

Nevertheless, I thoroughly enjoyed reading this saga, gave me many chuckles, although I sure can understand the frustrations very well.

Thanks & all the best,

Seppo
 

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W201 Moderator
89 190E2.6- 5-speed Manual, 95 E320 Sportsline-sold, 2001 E320 4matic Wagon-sold
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2,318 Posts
I once tried painting those too with them in place. A bit of sanding, covering and spraying with heat resistant paint (800°C as I recall, the highest temp I could find at the local shop). Did not take too long until all the paint was burned off...

Nevertheless, I thoroughly enjoyed reading this saga, gave me many chuckles, although I sure can understand the frustrations very well.

Thanks & all the best,

Seppo
Which is why I just wanted to touch up on mine with the original coat as my manifolds have no rust other than slight yellowing in the hottest spots (as seen in the picture) that is understandable after 29 years and 125K miles. I'm guessing the dealership will not be of any help here, was hoping for the knowledge base of the forum.

-Cheers!
 

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W126 1990 500SE (ASR) & W126 1991 300SE
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Discussion Starter #16
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Looks as good as Plinker's from this side!

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Not so pretty from this side.

I changed the fuel filter today, which wasn't too bad a job in the end. Then I removed the exhaust manifolds again. This company was recommended by a friend, for a ceramic coating, so I will take the manifolds down to them tomorrow. They're not cheap, but seem to know what they're doing - £240 which includes collection & delivery of the parts within 10 working days. They do offer a 5 day service for a 25% increase, or 3-Day service for a 50% premium. I prefer to drop the parts off, so that I can take a look at colours samples while I'm there. Actually their 'Performance White' coating is probably quite close to the original.

The manifold removal wasn't too bad, with the studs staying in the engine while I unscrewed the hex nuts. The difficult part was getting under the car to remove the threaded bolts connecting the manifolds to the downpipes. Not looking forward to torquing them back on either. Also noticed that all 4 bolts had bent slightly! I had hoped to escape having to buy new gaskets, but some of them are already damaged, as little bits break off when the manifold is freed up. New rivet nuts and gaskets on order!

It's too late to edit the original post, but forgot to mention that the rivet nuts need to be removed from the manifolds after you get them off the engine. This is quite straightforward - I put a thinner bolt though the manifold (in the same way that the rivet nut tool is inserted) and then just hammered the rivet nuts out.
No word back from VHT, but the paint seller wrote to inform me that the paint I used is not recommended for manifolds, and that I should have used a different typw. After directing him to the VHT website, where they recommend using this paint on manifolds, he said he will get in touch with VHT and get back to me.
 

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W201 Moderator
89 190E2.6- 5-speed Manual, 95 E320 Sportsline-sold, 2001 E320 4matic Wagon-sold
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At the risk of stating the obvious I would ask the new guys to show you a sample "after" it was placed in a car. I'm guessing but I assume you do not want to repeat this job for the 3rd time.

Will be watching how your tedious work turns out Martin

- Cheers!
 

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68 250S, 91 300se, 98 SL500, 450SEL 6.9, 14 CLS550 Past MB's; 300SD, 300E, 300TE, 190E, ML420
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I have used just a clear coat after sandblasting exhaust manifolds. It turns a nice cast iron gray color.
 

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W126 1990 500SE (ASR) & W126 1991 300SE
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Discussion Starter #19
At the risk of stating the obvious I would ask the new guys to show you a sample "after" it was placed in a car. I'm guessing but I assume you do not want to repeat this job for the 3rd time.

Will be watching how your tedious work turns out Martin

- Cheers!
Hahaha, good point! I will obviosuly ask, but I expect that there is absolutely no change before and after. Apparently the ceramic coating is heated to some ridiculous temperature, in order to become a sprayable paint - 10,000°C. So a 'warm' manifold is not going to do anything to change the colour.

I have used just a clear coat after sandblasting exhaust manifolds. It turns a nice cast iron gray color.
Do you remember the brand of paint?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
The original coating sort of blended in with the rest like the cylinder head. Here is mine when I had the valve cover taken off for refinishing.
You can see it is starting to change color in some spots so I would like to just brush-up/refresh those areas without taking the manifolds off if the original coating is available.

Would like to know if anyone has tried that.

- Cheers
That's a really nice job you've done of cleaning up around where the gasket goes. I cleaned mine before fitting the repainted head cover & gasket, but I was worried about pushing any dirt into the engine. So, the results were not perfect.

Meanwhile I went to Zircotec today, looked at the samples, and made my selection.

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The top one shows the full range of colours. Then with & without flash, we have from left to right, the following colours: Tungsten, Titanium, Silver and then 'Performace White' which is their top product. I photographed that, as I believe itis nearest to the original finish.

They said they could also put the ceramic coating on the nuts, so I included these and went with 'Silver' for the manifolds, and 'Titanium' for the nuts - to give a slight contrast.

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We'll see how it turns out!!
 
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