Why is that so?Is it loud like a "jacob" brake system ?
I sure hope so !
Exhaust brakes are wonderful on the big mogs. Should make the brakes last 3 or 4 times longer....chop.... I also found out if you are in "Georgia Overdrive" ie. rolling down a hill in neutral and you hit the exhaust brake the engine will shut off-duh. You could always get a locomotive horn.
My exhaust brake got stuck on the ''on'' position while riding on the highway, again. The first time it happened, it was -20c, so I thought that it was just frozen. This time, I cannot explain why it got stuck.
Is there a way to lubricate/clean that foot switch so it doesn`t happen again ?
How do you get it unstuck safely while still rolling ?
I read that you should`t floor the gas pedal, because the exhaust temp could run pretty high.
I didn`t thought about looking at my EGT gauge while it was happening, because I was freaking out a bit, I was in a tunnel, at 90kph, in heavy traffic. I kept stabbing that switch and it released after a while.
I think it was B101UK that was speaking about the idle adjustment in relation with the spud brake.It's probably not the switch/valve itself, it's probably the butterfly valve in the pipe getting stuck closed. My 1300 does that occasionally (hot, cold, doesn't seem to matter). I have lubed the shafts with some graphite lube and it seemed to get better. When mine sticks the engine speed has to drop to 1000 rpm or so (reducing exhaust flow) and the brake opens. Try hitting the clutch next time it happens.
This issue came up before and someone pointed out there is a precise method of adjusting the idle speed of the engine, and the setting of the hand throttle, that effects the engine brake dropout. Can't remember where that info was discussed. The adjustment procedure is in the manual.
Is there any pics around of that lube point ?
Good info ! Thanks !I don't have a photo but it's easy to find. Just look for the air cylinder that actuates the air brake butterfly valve, and lube the valve shaft where it enters the exhaust housing (part of the cast manifold on my truck). There's a pivot point on the backside too, danged hard to see, and I got to it only with a screwdriver shaft, letting the lube run down the shaft.
BTW, when you lift your left foot off the brake actuator, you should hear air escape. That should retract the spring loaded air cylinder. You can also hear if the brake opens or not. After thinking about this, the sticking point could be the air cylinder piston. I think I'll try to lube mine by injecting a little of the graphite there too.
There was an earlier question about how to use the brake, to hold it on or to apply it in spurts. Either way is the answer...whatever is needed. I have held my brake on for miles, like coming out of the Rockies. Obviously the injector pump should not be injecting at this time (there's a control cylinder to make it throttle back). I usually check the pyrometer occasionally to be sure temps are low. Exhaust temp will really drop under those conditions.
Should heavy grease be used ? Or spray-on type would be ok (Fluid Film ?)