[TeflonFetus]

So I got a rust-free 115 to drive around while I finish the 123. 76 300d, all in all a very nice car. HOWEVER--im a mechanic by trade, and I know 617 123's like the back of my hand. So I open the hood after I get the car home and I can't find the oil filter housing. It's a big can, you can't really hide it anywhere, so unless its on the bottom of the injection pump (highly unlikely), the previous owner REMOVED THE WHOLE ASSEMBLY and spliced the lines together. The car runs like a top and doesn't burn any oil, but if the oil filter has been removed, that motor's coming out and another one's going in. And it's gonna have a turbo

Is a 123 turbo 617 compatible with the 115 617 mounts? anything i should know before starting this?

i know the trans on the 115 has a downshift rod instead of a cable/vac valves, and it starts in 2nd gear, and i believe the turbo version has a stronger version of the 722 to handle the increased power output...so maybe a trans swap is in order as well. driveshafts compatible? and if both cars have 115mph speedos, does that mean they both have 3.07 rear ends?

 

[79Mercy]

The oil filter canister is under the car on the drivers side of the motor. I can pretty much assure you that your car has an oil filter. Didn't you say your were a mechanic.

Your 617.910 has a 3.46 rear end, the 617.95x came with the 3.07 rear diff.

Nice 300D.

 

[POS]

ever want to kick the previous owner's arse?

I stopped counting how many times I've run into a previous owner who has DESTROYED an otherwise beautiful car. Many of those were very rare AMGs.

 

[TeflonFetus]

i was hoping the guy didnt take the filter off. i'm probably going to end up driving it till the engine or trans dies (if ever) and then dropping the .952 and trans in...a turbo 115, has a nice ring to it. hopefully i dont upset any purists (hey at least its not a 350).

the previous owner worked at a sound shop and had the whole car wired up for thousands of watts of power. he was nice enough to drop the original becker europa am/fm back in the dash, but in making all his crossovers and other stuff fit behind the dash, he cut the wires for everything--the ac blower (ill get to the heat in a minute), the lighter, the rear defroster, the fader, hazards, and some other knob, i dont even know what the heck its for. he left all the plugs, but cut the wires short, almost at the firewall. anybody have a wiring diagram?

also, on top of the fuel filter, there's a plastic looking cap with a screw in it. it leaks diesel fuel from the top of the filter housing. i thought about putting the one from my 123 on for a while, but it's a different design. is the fuel filter assembly from a later 617 interchangeable?

oh, one more thing...the heater. I have heat, on the highway, after about 3 or 4 minutes of freeway speeds. as soon as the rpms drop or i go to idle, the heat gets cooler, then just turns cold. the thermostat is working and the temp holds rock steady at 180. my 123 didnt have this problem, but 123s also have the secondary electric water pump and 115s do not. any way around this problem, ie. blocking off part of the radiator with a piece of cardboard like semis/busses do? the cooling system isnt restricted, nor is the heater control valve or core.

 

[TeflonFetus]

yeah, i havent had a chance to crawl under the car yet but i was assuming it was under there somewhere. it would have been a convienient excuse to swap a 617.952, im looking for a reason.

like i said, its a poor excuse for not looking, but i have no garage, ohio winters suck (snow)...i heard oil changes on these were messy. a canister with bottom access only would have that effect.

 

[79Mercy]

i was hoping the guy didnt take the filter off. i'm probably going to end up driving it till the engine or trans dies (if ever) and then dropping the .952 and trans in...a turbo 115, has a nice ring to it. hopefully i dont upset any purists (hey at least its not a 350).

the previous owner worked at a sound shop and had the whole car wired up for thousands of watts of power. he was nice enough to drop the original becker europa am/fm back in the dash, but in making all his crossovers and other stuff fit behind the dash, he cut the wires for everything--the ac blower (ill get to the heat in a minute), the lighter, the rear defroster, the fader, hazards, and some other knob, i dont even know what the heck its for. he left all the plugs, but cut the wires short, almost at the firewall. anybody have a wiring diagram?

also, on top of the fuel filter, there's a plastic looking cap with a screw in it. it leaks diesel fuel from the top of the filter housing. i thought about putting the one from my 123 on for a while, but it's a different design. is the fuel filter assembly from a later 617 interchangeable?

oh, one more thing...the heater. I have heat, on the highway, after about 3 or 4 minutes of freeway speeds. as soon as the rpms drop or i go to idle, the heat gets cooler, then just turns cold. the thermostat is working and the temp holds rock steady at 180. my 123 didnt have this problem, but 123s also have the secondary electric water pump and 115s do not. any way around this problem, ie. blocking off part of the radiator with a piece of cardboard like semis/busses do? the cooling system isnt restricted, nor is the heater control valve or core.

Im not even sure a turbo diesel would fit due to the oil filter housing and the turbo. The 617.910 is packed in there pretty tightly.

The later fuel filter housing uses smaller banjo fittings, you could make it work but its not just a simple drop in.

As for the heater, I would make sure the heater core isn't clogged. Maybe you could wire in a AUX water pump.

 

[areusche]

I've been trying to document all of my mods and additions whenever I do any work so I don't have a future w123 lover hating me

That is one HOT w115. I would love to find a nice one.

 

[Zedd]

Attached is a picture of the oil filter assembly on a W115 300D.

A turbo 617 will not fit without relocating the oil filter housing, it occupies the same space as the steering gearbox.

 

[mdanielson]

i bought my now-beloved 1981 marine blue 300d just last summer. After what i thought was careful inspection, i drove it home 100 miles in august heat and a shocking rainstorm.
the next day, i saw that it had no air filter. Can you imagine!!!!! Driving a car with no air filter at all!!! I can't believe i didn't check to see what the inside of the breather looked like. I drove it home on the interstate that way!!! I felt horrible, and have babied the car ever since. That was 9,000 miles ago, and much love. She seems fine.

 

[MBZ300CD]

Actually, I'd like to go back and kiss the PO of my car. Over $16,000 in Mercedes dealer only maintenance and repairs from the time they purchased it new, until I bought it 6 years ago. Oil changes at an average of 2,500 miles, with full documentation. Additionally, she was anal about having it detailed inside, out, including the undercarriage.

 

[MBeige]

My grandma was the previous (and first) owner of my car. They took care of it nicely for 21 years prior to me acquiring the car in January of '04.

Indeed, that is a very nice w115. I hope you get that filter sorted out.

 

[TeflonFetus]

yeah, i'm a ruh-tard. its underneath, like every other car...im an idiot. anybody have a dash/center concole wiring diagram?

oh and zedd, i say this knowing its not a good idea and ill get bashed for suggesting it, but say, theoretically, that i take the intake and exhaust manifolds, injectors, injection pump, and turbocharger and put them on a non-turbo 617, after modifying the wastegate spring on the turbo to limit boost. yes, i'm aware that the n/a 617 doesnt have the oil rail to spray the bottoms of the pistons and keep them from melting, and yes, i'm aware that i'd have to turn the boost down so low that the effects of the turbo would be moot...but from a theoretical standpoint, is it doable?

 

[DieselKraut]

Actually, I'd like to go back and kiss the PO of my car. Over $16,000 in Mercedes dealer only maintenance and repairs from the time they purchased it new, until I bought it 6 years ago. Oil changes at an average of 2,500 miles, with full documentation. Additionally, she was anal about having it detailed inside, out, including the undercarriage.

Thats right just rub it in.....LMAO

 

[DieselKraut]

yeah, i'm a ruh-tard. its underneath, like every other car...im an idiot. anybody have a dash/center concole wiring diagram?

oh and zedd, i say this knowing its not a good idea and ill get bashed for suggesting it, but say, theoretically, that i take the intake and exhaust manifolds, injectors, injection pump, and turbocharger and put them on a non-turbo 617, after modifying the wastegate spring on the turbo to limit boost. yes, i'm aware that the n/a 617 doesnt have the oil rail to spray the bottoms of the pistons and keep them from melting, and yes, i'm aware that i'd have to turn the boost down so low that the effects of the turbo would be moot...but from a theoretical standpoint, is it doable?

Ill chime in here

Companies all over Europe turboed NON turbo diesels.....yes even 200Ds and 240Ds............ there is proof all over the internet and i have seen it first hand with a few euro NON turbo models that had turbos back in krautland added and nothing else........ no ip mods or anything just turbos slapped on.


Now if you do this you should make sure you have good compression and if you can make your ip run a lil more rich than before.

If the motor runs too lean it will for sure blow its just a matter of when.

Now then.....say you took your .952 ip and turbo you would still have to run oil to the turbo which comes from the back of the oil filter canister and drains from the bottom of the turbo back to the pan so there you will have to drill into your upper oil pan. Sounds like too much work (im lazy).

But either way more power to ya! Im all about seeing what these babies can take....and cousin they can take a whole hell of a lot.

 

[240_benz]

I'd love to kick the ass of each and every one of the past 4 PO's of my car especially the one that turned back the odometer and caused a wiring short in the dash lighting. I'd also kick the ass of the one who removed the A/C too.

Enough ranting for now.

But lastly, the owner who put nice new floor mats and re-stuffed & reupholstered the seats deserves much praise for trying to fix the car up while he had it.

Other than that, it's in pretty good shape and it runs nice.

 

[RobTheMod300sd]

Eh, I don't know. I felt sorry for the PO of my TD. He was a heavy equipment diesel technician who was out of work and needed to make his rent.

His TD didn't shut off and ran 31 seconds 0-60, and sounded like a canal boat because of the broken downpipe. Shifted like a freight train (you could almost feel the train couplers- OUCH!)

3" of vacuum hose, a twist of the ALDA screw, reconnect the vac modulator line, and a $13 downpipe from the junkyard, and she runs like a new one.

The PO said he was grateful the car was going to a good home. He was right. And trying not to be too snide, but there might be a reason he can't find work as a diesel tech...

 

[SoundFlick]

Somehow, my PO managed to put at least 1 dent on every panel of the car. FML

 

[Ohbella]

OOOohh yes...

I wish my car's previous, previous "owner" I purgatory filled with electrial shorts and transmissions that give out on the expressway during rush hour.

He decided to convert my poor machine to run off WVO. But, took the "waste" part a bit too far by failing to properly (if at all) filter it. Then decided he didn't want that anymore (poor performance maybe?!) and half-assed put it back.
It took me 10 weeks and a good chunk of cash to get her back. The entire fuel system had to be redone. Injectors, injector pump rebuilt, lift pump, flush tank and blow out all the lines. I didn't know when I bought it that the WvO wasn't properly filtered.
It's a good thing I love the car, think it's running ok now...hopefully there isn't too much perminate damage.

 

[Carbuff]

My PO is an angel sent by god!!...He spent a shit load of cash rebuilding the entire car at a MB main dealer (they are bank busting vermin out here!)..he spent close to US$ 12K on refurbsihing her..most of it went into painting and replacing all lights, some engine bay parts (engine is untouched and purs like when new)... he wanted a color change and also changed anything worn out/looking old!!.. the car looks like it has stepped out of the showroom ...he wanted it to go to someone who will use it as a DD

 

[icelander_34]

I'd love to kick the ass of each and every one of the past 4 PO's of my car especially the one that turned back the odometer and caused a wiring short in the dash lighting. I'd also kick the ass of the one who removed the A/C too.

Enough ranting for now.

But lastly, the owner who put nice new floor mats and re-stuffed & reupholstered the seats deserves much praise for trying to fix the car up while he had it.

Other than that, it's in pretty good shape and it runs nice.

Likewise with the odometer and dash lighting! Bought it with neither working and soon developed a problem of the pre-glow fuse AND box melting! Pulled the dash, removed but didnt bridge the dimmer(which was all twisted), replaced the alternator and battery.......ran perfect for 6 mo. Now....the problem is back! put another alt and battery in it, replaced the fuse and box...again! Glow plug light comes on while driving and I have cleaned every ground I can find!

Yeah....I'd like ta!