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EURO 280CE
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Discussion Starter #1
what are your highway and idle engine temps? im getting 85-95c highway and 95 city and idling.
this is in cold rainy weather so im just wondering if this is normal because when summer hits i dont want to be shocked when i see 110c.

for people who have a euro m110 auto tranny does it feel kinda harsh compared to a US tranny? im wondering because this has less vacuum lines there are less inputs for shit feel adjustment. my US auto shifted really nice every gear but slipped from 3-4.

i dont get the first gear whine(like a supercharger) on the euro either when i floor it. if you keep your foot down when does it shift into second? i know mine is way outta whack there.

is it normal for it to idle at 700rpm beautifully and then shake at 850 and then get back to normal through the rest of the range?

theres not many people who own these so ill top this from time to time.
 

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ok here's my input. car is a 1985 110.988 with an automatic and prolly 235K km on it but very well mechanically maintained throughout its life.

1) car idles when its 70F at about 80C
2) when it gets hot out, idle goes towards 100C
3) this transmission is gold compared to my 1979. transmissions vary in design thru the years, the 1985 is really, really good.
4) i dont get any whine in first. my 190E whines quietly in 1st gear but it's a stick. this is because 1st gear is way down on the end of the cluster, they all do it somewhat.
5) if I put the car in L and stand on it it will run to redline in 1st then go to 2nd. in town i use L almost always to start, then bump it into S and back into L to control the 1/2 shift. when I want it to go to 3 I bump it back into S and leave it there unless I'm cruising along > 75KPH
6) I have no shaking/vibration problems in my car at any RPM

hope this helps. i will be shooting some in-car video soon
 

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EURO 280CE
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Discussion Starter #3
ok here's my input. car is a 1985 110.988 with an automatic and prolly 235K km on it but very well mechanically maintained throughout its life.

1) car idles when its 70F at about 80C
2) when it gets hot out, idle goes towards 100C
3) this transmission is gold compared to my 1979. transmissions vary in design thru the years, the 1985 is really, really good.
4) i dont get any whine in first. my 190E whines quietly in 1st gear but it's a stick. this is because 1st gear is way down on the end of the cluster, they all do it somewhat.
5) if I put the car in L and stand on it it will run to redline in 1st then go to 2nd. in town i use L almost always to start, then bump it into S and back into L to control the 1/2 shift. when I want it to go to 3 I bump it back into S and leave it there unless I'm cruising along > 75KPH
6) I have no shaking/vibration problems in my car at any RPM

hope this helps. i will be shooting some in-car video soon
helps alot, im thinking then my tranny doesnt downshift from second to first if you slam the pedal, ill be trying L soon.
 

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On my 97k mile 280te, same as ducatipaso. As far as your dropdown to first, check that the carpet is not blocking the downshift switch on the floor behind the loud pedal.

No shifting problems on my car until Tuesday, when I started using the newly rebuilt a/c system and a vacuum leak(s) started to raise their ugly head. A/C off, very good transmission performance.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
yep that was it, it wouldnt drop to first in D.

but i also forgot to mention my pedal is sticking or something. acceleration is normal with pedal position compared to my other m110, but if your on it half throttle and release it youll barely notice any power loss and the last 1mm of pedal is where the throttle is released. anyone else have this? its def not normal so what kind of free play should i be looking for?

i dunno how you start in L always, the lowest mine will shift at is 6k...
 

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1984 280SE, 2009 SL550
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Newbie 110.989 with 45k on it.

It's been in the upper 90's here this week. With the A/C on it ran up to 95 - 100. Normally has been around 80 - 85.

The trans is only harsh when cold - first starting out - but isn't that normal MB?

I'm not really 'standing on it' in any gear. There's no point in trying to get an M110 to move a W126 with anything resembling speedy. :D

I've put some Techron and Sea Foam in it in preparation for a smog check. Those made it hesitate at idle (750) here and there, but it's run through the system, and it's back to purring.
 

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Mine stays at 80 rock solid but the car has only been with me 2 months and used ocassionally.

Late spring and summer gets very hot in madrid, reaching 90s, What temp should I expect in those conditions and the ac on??
 

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Discussion Starter #9
ttt, is there anyone using wr7dc or wr8dc plugs? im trying to find why my car is missing at idle so badly. ive tried injector cleaner and ignition timing which is good at 3500 but cant find an idle spec for the euro.
would a vacuum leak cause poor idle? i thought it would just raise it.

im gonna try and swap out some of the throttle linkage springs from my other m110 to see if that fixes my pedal.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
they are about a year old from my other car, i bought the bosch 09024 from autohaus what are you using?
im also using 04017 dist rotor and 03121 cap.
 

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1984 280SE, 2009 SL550
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ttt, is there anyone using wr7dc or wr8dc plugs? im trying to find why my car is missing at idle so badly. ive tried injector cleaner and ignition timing which is good at 3500 but cant find an idle spec for the euro.
would a vacuum leak cause poor idle? i thought it would just raise it.

im gonna try and swap out some of the throttle linkage springs from my other m110 to see if that fixes my pedal.
FWIW, Rusty at ********** steered me away from those plugs with an 'R' in the part number - saying that our cars should not use Resistor type plugs. The W7dc was superceded by the WR7DC, so he talked me into comparable non-resistor NGK plugs. That might help. Also, is your idle too low?
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
whats the park number on the ngk's? i used some once when i was trying to figure out if my fuel pump went bad, and when i took them back out to put the wr7dc's back in they didnt want to come out. imo they are really cheap quality, the ones i bought im 99% sure they were resistor, never had it running with them in anyway.

ive been messing with the idle for the past month, it seems to miss worse when warm but all that means really is the idle speed is lower so the miss is more obvious the slower the engine is turning. the miss goes away at about 1000-12 rpm. its probably still there though.
oh and at idle next the muffler my car sounds like a 4cyl with a crappy exhaust, almost like a vibration but nothing vibrating. my other car def did not sound like this.
 

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1978 280ce euro found dead on Ebay
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what are your highway and idle engine temps? im getting 85-95c highway and 95 city and idling.

this is in cold rainy weather so im just wondering if this is normal because when summer hits i dont want to be shocked when i see 110c.

I get soild 80C when temps are below 70F outside. I don't have an auxilary at this time and even when the temp was 90 degrees a few weeks ago it never went over 95. Last summer I had problems with it running up to 100C with the AC runnng and it being 90+ outside.

for people who have a euro m110 auto tranny does it feel kinda harsh compared to a US tranny? Mine is not harsh when driven nicely and the weather is warm. If it's real cold sub freezing it is very harsh. If I flor it it will hold forever beore shifting and then it hits hard.


i dont get the first gear whine(like a supercharger) on the euro either when i floor it. if you keep your foot down when does it shift into second? i know mine is way outta whack there. If floored from stop it will whin out shift at 5500 rpms

is it normal for it to idle at 700rpm beautifully and then shake at 850 and then get back to normal through the rest of the range? No it's not normal should be smooth. I on the other hand have been having problem with car idling rough but smooh elsewhere on the band. haven't chased it though most likely the autolite plugs I put in or my valves need adjusting again it's been over a year.
 

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whats the park number on the ngk's? i used some once when i was trying to figure out if my fuel pump went bad, and when i took them back out to put the wr7dc's back in they didnt want to come out. imo they are really cheap quality, the ones i bought im 99% sure they were resistor, never had it running with them in anyway.

ive been messing with the idle for the past month, it seems to miss worse when warm but all that means really is the idle speed is lower so the miss is more obvious the slower the engine is turning. the miss goes away at about 1000-12 rpm. its probably still there though.
oh and at idle next the muffler my car sounds like a 4cyl with a crappy exhaust, almost like a vibration but nothing vibrating. my other car def did not sound like this.
They're the BP6ES. I hope you're wrong about the quality. Car's running great so far. Passed smog as a fast pass (REALLY clean)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
did you find your ngks online, if so were? i tried to buy non resistors from rockauto but they lied and sent me wr7dcs. im a little hesitant buying another set now.
 

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1979 280CE
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you can get NGK's from the dealer but I would recomend getting W7DC's from the dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
you can get NGK's from the dealer but I would recomend getting W7DC's from the dealer.
i thought there was no supply, i will try them tomorrow. i bet they will try and tell me i need US w9dcs
 

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I think there still in stock. I know w9dc's are.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
all the dealer could get me were w9dco's but they had them in stock, so i got some ngk's off ebay.
i could have tried classic but i didnt want to explain it all over again.
 
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