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Discussion Starter #1
Dear All,
The ENR (electric ride height) light has begun to light-up on the dash of our V-Class. Holding the ride-hide button down does temporarily switch the light off. Should I be worried? What does it mean?
The manual states that a flashing light indicates an incorrect ride height - so what does a steady light mean? What sort of 'faults' does the on-board ERN computer check?
Greetings,
Christof
 

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I had this a few weeks back and last week ended up at the garage, luckily it wasn't the compressor as this is expensive !

With the engine running I'd press and hold the button, the light would go out then blink several times and then come and stay on again. No noises and no hint of what the problem might be.

As my system was still pressurised and hadn't "dropped to it's knees" then I figured it was OK to drive at normal speeds for a short while until I sorted out the garage visit. I did however not change the loading or removing anything that was heavy I had been carrying.

From the stories I have read on various places on the Internet (using Google) the potential damage if the suspension collapses is a serious risk when in motion so I would get it checked out when you can.

In the end I just needed a sensor for the pressure measurement which was around £60 plus labour.

However I did consider the option of swapping out and replacing with Vito springs but I wanted to know what was wrong before I attempted the transplant .. :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you for the reply. It gives me some hope to hear that it isn't necessarily the compressor....I now have my fingers tightly crossed!

The symptoms I have are just as you described.

My v-class is still running at what seems like its usual level - but since we have only had it for a couple of weeks I can't be sure.

I will avoid loading it with my more than my kids!

I too have been looking at the net, and reading about springs. I changed my Volvo 740 springs last year and it was easy - but that was with the help of a Haynes manual. I am beginning to think it was a serious mistake to buy a car for which there is no service manual. I would feel so much more confident if I could at least see what was involved in the levelling system. I must say that this fault, and the terrible press the v-class has drawn does not fill me with confidence.

Now I have to arrange my first trip to the Merc garage. I guess I am going to get to know them well.

I still have my sixteen year old Volvo (which has no rust - unlike the 6 year old v-class), and I have been happy not having to deal with Volvo at all - except for one occassion where they suggested the car had reached the end of its life, and that was 5 years ago.

Greetings,
Christof
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ah, I have been searching a bit more on what the ENR consists of. There are some excellent pages on the German V-class owners club pages:

http://www.vclub-forum.de/forum/forum.asp?FORUM_ID=17

It seems like there are several valves that can go wrong especially in cold damp weather. The suggestion is that most of the valves are fairly easily available in Germany (with prices around £30).

There are some tips on how to test the ENR, but I will have to concentrate hard to make sure I can understand them.

Greetings,
Christof
 

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Discussion Starter #5
A quick update for anyone who is interested.

I have found the two valves which allow air to flow to either the left or right rear suspension. The valves are just above the pump underneath the v-class just by the front passenger seat.

See:
http://www.vclub-forum.de/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=107

I found the dud valve by applying 12VDC to them in turn. One valve made a clunk followed by air flowing (as it should). The other did nothing.

I have now ordered a new electromagnet for the valve (£33.29 from Merc A000 543 33 85).

I will let you know what happens when I reinstall the valve.

I believe Merc simply replaces the whole assembly - costing nearly ten-times as much simply the electromagnet.

Greetings,
Christof
 

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Discussion Starter #6
OK, I got the electromagnet - but removing the inner valve casing was not easy. Indeed, in doing so I damaged the thin-walled copper/brass(?) tube - damn because that is going to cost me another £80....
Interestingly the valves have their date of manufacture on them. The dead one was made in 2003 - so I got at most two years usage from it - more likely only one. Considering it is costs £120+labour to replace I can see why some consider abandoning the air suspension.
Hey ho!
Greetings,
Christof
PS If you want to replace just the magnet, without damaging the inner parts then be careful with the disassembly. Specifically, don't simply unscrew the valve using the big nut. First cut a slot in the inner spindle at the nut, and make sure the spindle does not rotate as the nut is unscrewed. That way the nut screws off the spindle and the magnet can be simply removed without disconnecting the valve itself.
Any other approach (as happened to me) will lead to disaster!
 

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Most interesting...what was the outcome? Was the problem with the light rectified on replacement of the dead valve and suspension back to as it should be? Which part cost the extra £80?
 

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I have recently experienced the same type of fault.
left hand solenoid failure, probably due to moisture ingress. During my first phone call to Mb i was advised the solenoid would be £80.00 + vat.I thought this sounded expensive, even for a mb part. I decided to visit dealer and check out the part catalogue. it was then i could see i had been quoted for the whole solenoid block/valve assembly. I requested a price 4 the single magnet and this was £ 30.00 ish. Part was ordered and fitted. On mine i had to cut off the top nut by hacksawing 2 cuts either side of the spindle thread. all was re assembled and now controlls again perfectly. I believe the system flashes if height is inncorrect on either side or pressure is low in the compressor pressure vessel. My V-class had alreadyy been in at a dealer 4 almost 2 hours before all this and they couldnt find the fault! i was going to pay 4 the labour on the next service but decided i didnt trust them to work on the car if they couldnt even fix this fault. at £ 80.00 an hour i expect fast and proffesional repairs.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Just as the last person in the thread said, the whole block - with both valves - costs £80 + VAT. In my case, that fixed the problem - and it was very simple to do. Had I known that the whole block was 'only' £80 + VAT I would have replaced it straight away, without attempting the £30 repair of a part of it. Replacing the whole block was simple, fast and gives you new valves on both sides.
I have been considering what might happen to the air suspension if it fails whilst I am away on holiday. I saw a kit (German ebay) for allowing the air suspension to be inflated with an external standard car tyre pump.
 

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I have a similar problem on the V230, wehre the ENR light is ON. I also have buoncy ride. What exactly does this imply?
 

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300GD LWB + SWB 1985 , 300GE 463 LWB AUT.
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I am afraid your are getting poorer and your MB garage a bit richer....[:D][:D][:D][:D][:D][:D][:D]

but don´t worry you are the proud owner of this spanish piece of engineering by MB.

Take some ekstra hour at your work so your overtime check can pay for some MB workshop......[:)][:)][:)][:)][:)][:)]

Join the V class air suspension club......[8)][8)][8)][8)][8)][8)]

I have a better idea....New Year´´s eve...you need not buy fire work infact the V will do the job instead of the fire works.

hej guys this piece of junk is a night mare..[:p][:p][:p][:p][:p][:p]

This MB rusts like a hyienea having caught rabiees
and it will break down as a ...no example...even a skoda is more stable.[V][V][V][V][V][V][V][V][V][V]
 

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Hi, i had the same problem with my v220. took to mb and found out that it was a relay that had gone. get new relay and got a local garage to fit it alot cheaper than mb.
 
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