Mercedes-Benz Forum banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Lately been seeing my throttle just cut out. It's not the engine, it's still idling fine. Usually happens under light acceleration, I push the accelerator down and nothings happening. 2001 E430 is still running, and just pushing harder does get the car to accelerate. I know we have a electronic throttle (no cable) so wondering if other people have seen this behavior as well and what it took to correct it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
17,193 Posts
Sounds like it might have something to do with the transmission or torque converter. Read the transmission FAQ in the stickys and you might find the answer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
I'm thinking it might be a sensor in the drive by wire setup. I thought the symtoms were pretty clear. under light acceleration (like leaving a stop light) there's just nothing there. Step on the accelerator and the engine RPMs don't increase, car doesn't move. Step harder and all of a sudden the engine revs will come up and then I start moving. But having to push the pedal halfway to the floor is not a good thing, and it's not consistent.

This also happens on the highway, I'll be tooling along at 45-60 MPH and try to increase speed and just nothing "there", car starts to slow until I step harder on the go pedal.

I'm thinking bad accelerator. But it's electronic, it could be elsewhere and I don't want to just throw parts at it. That gets expen$ive very fast.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,652 Posts
I'm thinking it might be a sensor in the drive by wire setup. I thought the symtoms were pretty clear. under light acceleration (like leaving a stop light) there's just nothing there. Step on the accelerator and the engine RPMs don't increase, car doesn't move. Step harder and all of a sudden the engine revs will come up and then I start moving. But having to push the pedal halfway to the floor is not a good thing, and it's not consistent.

This also happens on the highway, I'll be tooling along at 45-60 MPH and try to increase speed and just nothing "there", car starts to slow until I step harder on the go pedal.

I'm thinking bad accelerator. But it's electronic, it could be elsewhere and I don't want to just throw parts at it. That gets expen$ive very fast.
First look at cable adjustment. With engine off see if pedal value sensor is resting against idle stop. Then with pedal on the floor see if sensor moves to wide open throttle position. You have three cars in family that use same pedal value sensor. Swap them around.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31,633 Posts
Have you checked for codes? Even in the absence of a check engine light you may still have a pending code and that can often point to a solution.

Resetting the adaptive transmission can prove useful as well (in the stickies).

Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I don't think it's a cable adjustment, or it'd be VERY replicable. This is totally intermittent. Never happens when starting and leaving the driveway, I'm always a mile or two from home and then it'll just cut out as I take my foot off the brake and roll out into traffic. :eek:

Not fun.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,461 Posts
Throttle position sensor (TPS) going bad is my guess. Nothing happens if you press the pedal, then suddenly the car flies away? Sort of like a driver learning to drive with a stick shift?
Makes it very difficult to drive in traffic. :eek:
On my SLK it was the TPS. One of the circuits was going bad and the delay in action is due to the computer trying to decide which one gave the correct reading. I think it is quite an expensive part on the W210. :crybaby2:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,652 Posts
I don't think it's a cable adjustment, or it'd be VERY replicable. This is totally intermittent. Never happens when starting and leaving the driveway, I'm always a mile or two from home and then it'll just cut out as I take my foot off the brake and roll out into traffic. :eek:

Not fun.
Find somebody with OBDII scanner (not code reader) that can display live data. See if there are any pending codes. Look at values for throttle angle and compare them to actual pedal position. Look at values for air flow (g/s) at wide open throttle just before 2-3 shift. Value should be ~80% of advertised HP.

Look at values for short and long fuel trim. Post your findings.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
No CEL when this happens. It never has happened right after starting, always a 1/2 mile or so from the house. Although it will happen at anytime after that. The other day coming home 60 miles from Lampasas it was happening quite often. If it was the MAF (I've seen MAF issues before on this and other cars) the engine would be stumbling and cutting out. Thats not this. Engine stays running, it just seems to drop to idle.

I drive the car so little so miles ago I can't really say. I bought it in late '09 with 106K on it. The car has 115K on it. So 2yrs and less than 10K. It's been doing it the last 2-3k I'd say.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top