That was awesome!! Thanks!With all the wires soldered to each connector, the rubber hosing put on, all the wires and connectors lined up as before (that is why it's important to take a lot of pictures), you can start pulling the wires through the main connector. Solder the pins from the main connector on. Then align each pin to the correct number on the main connector. It helps to have the inner parts of the harness to guide the pins in place. Also keeps them from touching eachother and short Put it all back together! Make sure the harness is securely and correctly in place (as it can be a bit hard to get it back in).
Quick note on this next picture: I made the mistake of putting the wrong part of the inner harness on first. You should put it on as shown in an earlier photo. I made quite a bit of mistakes doing this, and that is also why it takes time to do this job
My workplace for the last week:
Back in the car, process reverse of removal That is also why it's SO important to take pictures!!
Tested that it worked and it did! Put everything back on:
Have driven the car for two days now. It has made a HUGE difference to the car, now it's responsive, feels light, accelerates like a rocketship (or well.. a lot faster than before) and the gearshifting is smooth. I LOVE IT!
There is still a problem with a rough idle, when it gets hot. The rpms fall to about 450 when it's in gear, and sometimes feels like it's about to choke/die. The oilpressure also falls to about 1½ when it's in gear, and is only about 2 when it's in idle. I would have thought 3 is the optimum all the time, regardless of if it's in gear or not? I know that the car is leaking a bit of oil, probably from the headgasket, but I top it op with oil every other month or so, and the oillevel is fine right now. Don't know what's wrong
But the job of engine wiring harness rebuild was well worth it!!
Hope this helps someone out there do their rebuild.