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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everybody,
Today, I was cleaning my engine using a special high pressure pump because of too much mud accumulated from the rain. After I finished cleaning, I blew some air to dry any still water there. I wanted to start the engine but I could not. I tried several times after I checked the power at the power distributor and at each spark plug found okay, I checked the fuel and it is there at the output of fuel dist. I also opened every spark plug and checked for any miss. I opened the power dist. cap and checked for any moisture, there is nothing. I kept engine drying for one hour thinking there is too much fuel being fed to the plugs. A fter many times of trials, I started engine for some time, when I pressed fuel pedal to increase the RPM and charge the battery, it would not accept any more fuel then it stopped. I tried again but it did not strat. What would be the problem? Where should I start? Any help would be highly appreciated and thanks in a dvance.
 

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you probably knocked an air hose or the ICV.
could also be water inside the air intake and throttle body.
Also check the rear timing sensor between the transmission and engine. You could have knocked it loose.
 

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I drove through some water a few months back and had the same symptoms I think. I just feathered the throttle very lightly, slowly getting heavier on the throttle until the engine stopped dying or stuttering. No more problems to date.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
first guess: idle air control valve, whats was the economy meter pointing at?
L
At the beginning, I accused the air control valve and removed it cleaned by brake cleaner and some very little dirt appeared but did not solve the poroblem. The economy meter is almost zero.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
you probably knocked an air hose or the ICV.
could also be water inside the air intake and throttle body.
Also check the rear timing sensor between the transmission and engine. You could have knocked it loose.
The ICV, I am sure there is no poroblem with it. If I made the rear timing sensor loose, the Ignition Control Module with prevent power output at the power distributor and plug cables.
May be there is some water inside the intake and throttle if so do I have to remove the intake completely?
 

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The ICV, I am sure there is no poroblem with it. If I made the rear timing sensor loose, the Ignition Control Module with prevent power output at the power distributor and plug cables.
May be there is some water inside the intake and throttle if so do I have to remove the intake completely?
Hello! Abdullah- Just a though. Use Hair Dryer on extreme hot setting and blow through air intake, throttle body, Distributor wiring, coil and coil wiring. Also pull out fuel pump pump relay and blow the hair dryer hot air also.

Try starting engine with engine starter fluid spraying into the throttle body. And if engine start, let it run for 20-30 minutes before driving her out.

Just my thought. See what happened.

Sahai
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hello! Abdullah- Just a though. Use Hair Dryer on extreme hot setting and blow through air intake, throttle body, Distributor wiring, coil and coil wiring. Also pull out fuel pump pump relay and blow the hair dryer hot air also.

Try starting engine with engine starter fluid spraying into the throttle body. And if engine start, let it run for 20-30 minutes before driving her out.

Just my thought. See what happened.

Sahai
Just few hours ago, I Kept the central plate of the air mass and the throttle open for about an hour to dry using an electrical fan blowing air directly to it.
I will also blow hot air using hair dryer to the air intake, throttle body, distributor wirings, coil and all other wirings as you suggested and see.
 

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Just few hours ago, I Kept the central plate of the air mass and the throttle open for about an hour to dry using an electrical fan blowing air directly to it.
I will also blow hot air using hair dryer to the air intake, throttle body, distributor wirings, coil and all other wirings as you suggested and see.

Oh! I forgot, did you mention that your economy meter stayed at Zero?. I assume that when you crank the engine, economy meter does not swing to black area and stayed in red zone near zero? In that case, it indicates major vacuum leak. May be vacuum line is disconnected. You can check vacuum leak with Cigar smoke easily.

Sahai
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Oh! I forgot, did you mention that your economy meter stayed at Zero?. I assume that when you crank the engine, economy meter does not swing to black area and stayed in red zone near zero? In that case, it indicates major vacuum leak. May be vacuum line is disconnected. You can check vacuum leak with Cigar smoke easily.

Sahai
I blew hot air using a hair dryer on all related components but did not help.
I removed the air mass, inspected underneath and the throttle all found okay. No sign of any water or moisture. I was saying when I started after several trials, the economy meter was reading normal at idle at zero but while I was cranking to start it, I did not look at it. I will observe the economy meter and check for any vacuum leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hi,
Unfortunately, I still could not get it started, I do not believe it. I almost checked all what`s under the hood and still my problem is unknown. Now, I had my battery has become weak because of many attempts that I tried.
When I measured its voltage, found it very week, it is now "10vdc" and this won`t be enough to start it and maybe it is my recent cause that prevents my engine from starting? I guess, the earlier problem was the moisture on the power distributor and power cables which has been now disappeared. I am not sure, maybe the battery is my concern for the time being. I will borrow my second car`s battery and try it tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hello guys,

Finally, problem is solved.

Today, I replaced the battery and car didn`t start. I double-checked the power at the power distributor again and noticed the spark that comes out from the ignition coil is red in color which indicates very weak and it should be blue. I have a spare ignition coil, replaced and my baby woke up. Car is ready to join the road now. Thank you all guys, special thanks to those who gave me some of thier time.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Good to hear that Abdullah!
Thanks DP,

The strange thing that I was not expecting, when I compared the fault and good ignition coil readings, I found the same readings on both such as resistance between the connecting pins and continuity which I think in future can`t tell if there is a good or bad one unless I try it.
 

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Why don't you put it back and try again for giggles? The resistance you're measuring with an Ohmmeter isn't the actual impedance at charge because the the meter is injecting a DC current to read the passive resistance. That will most likely tell you if you have a an open coil by going to infinity.
If the car fires back up with the old coil, I would look closely at the EZL. that's just me, I like to double check and never settle even if things look nominal.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Why don't you put it back and try again for giggles? The resistance you're measuring with an Ohmmeter isn't the actual impedance at charge because the the meter is injecting a DC current to read the passive resistance. That will most likely tell you if you have a an open coil by going to infinity.
If the car fires back up with the old coil, I would look closely at the EZL. that's just me, I like to double check and never settle even if things look nominal.
From my experience, if the EZL fails, it will never give a chance to the engine to start up. It never give any power output. It happened to me many times before. Some of the electrical components can cheat, they behave differently when they are on the ciruit unlike when they are off it. I think what was happening before, there is an insufficient power coming out from the faulty coil that I already replaced, moreover, the insufficient power has been shared by the cranking the heavy motor and power that is required to supply the spark plugs.
 

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Hey Abdullah, I just remembered that you took out your differential for service. Did you do it yourself, and if so, what was your procedure for removing it from the car?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Hey Abdullah, I just remembered that you took out your differential for service. Did you do it yourself, and if so, what was your procedure for removing it from the car?
The first time, one mechanic replaced a differential for me. The second time, I did it myself, removed, cleaned all parts and repaired a leak using o-rings also I added some pic but I could not locate my thread, where is it gone. I do not know.
 
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