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Discussion Starter #1
ok need some info, i did a full engine swap to my car a couple years back ---i put a 500euro engine in a 380sec---i have the 500 ecu but have no info on how to integrate the two, the euro has a lot more pegs. and i am not worried about emmisions and it has euro barrel headers no kat and muffler setup---
so how do i get the car back to the obd1 setup (original euro setup)?????
I changed the throtle setup to the 3 peg from the 2 peg euro one but not sure what else needs rewired etc

any help would be appreciated the car runs great but rich
 

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Post this question on mbcoupes.com. There are several folks there that have sucessfully done engine swaps in the coupes and would likely be the best source of information for you.

Go to http://pairlist.net/mailman/listinfo/mbcoupes and subscribe, then post your question.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thanks, i was advised to get the schematics for the us and euro versions for their wiring set up as well as put in an o2 bung for the sensor, (obd1) but beyond that i have not pursued it untill i have the full info on the project
 

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Why didn't you just use the 380 FI setup? Swap the fuel distributors, switch over the sensors and go - it's THAT simple. Because if you use any feedback system as opposed to none then you MUST use an 02 sensor. OTOH what I would have done is chuck the whole mess and go without any feedback like early Euros. No cat, no computer, no 02 sensor, no pump, no idle control - just carry a 3mm so you can tune it on the side of the road.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
???? well i had thought of that but can i do that with my current cis unit i have now with modifications?? i do not have a frequency valve, egr, or any of the other emmisions crap i have on my other 500 motor, and i have rerouted the vacum lines as well. anyone have pics?? I would like to have it set up the way the 1984 500 euro was setup but the older euro setup would be fine too. please advise and thanks for the info up to now as well!
 

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AS far as the early CIS only system is concerned there is nothing to take a picture of, there is nothing there. No wires, no sensors, nothing. I guess it's hard for people to imagine but pretend it's 1969 all over again. you give the engine fuel and spark and it runs. That's all, that's it, end of story. Go find an early fuel distributor, put it on, tune it with an allen wrench (either to a tach or even by ear) and go drive the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
that is what i am currently doing, tuning it (with the allen)to the altitude and temperture of the season and it is running great,
but i still need to know, what do i do with the computer system that is in the exsisting car?? just leave it unpluged the way it is??? am i missing somthing or is this affecting anything???
thanks again for the info, believe me i am not trying to beat a dead horse just want my car to run right the way it did from the factory.
 

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Aaron I drive a 500Euro, however that is not what they where called her (Australia), but I believe we are talking about the same car. For the information of others who could shime in with info, my car is a 1981 500SEL imported RH-drive from Hong Kong. I'm told that they basically using the UK set-up in the cars that are available in Hong Kong.
Recently I also have purchased the "Werkstatt Information Typ 126" from MB Germany. So with the help of more knowledgeable on the list I know we can solve this problem. So lets teach this puppy who's boss.
Talk soon. Hank J.
 

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The early fuel distributors had no freq valve in them so there are no wires going to it. If that's what you have then yes just unplug and forget the whole computerized mess. As for tuning it you can tune for best idle and it will run super, a bit rich but still super, (and yes I too noticed an improvement by tweaking based on the changing seasons) or you can do a lean drop to pass emissions even with no emissions equipment. Mine took quite a drop - much more than just 50RPM that you would do with a carburetor but when properly leaned out (properly means lean but not too far - you can't tell this by ear - you have to sniff the exhaust or do a trial and error) it still ran great - pinged a little more in the summer, but it sailed thru emissions inspection. Of course all this is predicated on really good compression/valves but if yours is running great now then you've got that covered.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
yes, now it is running great, it is one of the best 500 engines i have owned, smooth at idle like you cant even hear the car is on and the power is not deminished either----the egr and computer system is there, i just diconected and ignore them---thanks again for te input (i don't live in a county that requires emissions now !!!) next project is a jacobs magnum ignition i will be putting on this week
 

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Sounds like yours is running just like mine did - smooth as a cloud. Recently what floored me was a thread here on motor mounts -people said new mounts smoothed out their engines (?!) and with bad mounts their engines were banging around - incredible!!
 

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Kind of off topic...

Today at work, somebody brought their car in. He said it was making wierd noises (it was a 94 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 5.2l engine). So I popped the hood, asked him to start it, and saw/heard nothing unusual. Then he reved it, and the entire left side of the engine swung up 8 inches. Engine mount pretty much fell out, and the torque was letting it loose. He said it's been making that noise for three weeks... and he was just driving over 100 on the freeway on the way.

Moral is, don't let your engine mounts fall off.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
i put in new motor mounts when doing the restore process but might just change them out for the hell of it, are the 560 motormounts and more rigid than the 500 or 380 ones or are they all the same for the w126 i would think the diesel ones would be the strongest, but?????????
 
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