[Hipine]

Please reply with anything I'm missing. Especially in the engine remove/replace area. The more eyes I put on the plans, teh better chance I have of it going smoothly.

Thanks!

-Dave G.

PREP ENGINE
Lash valves
Replace oil pan
Rebuild/replace vac pump?
Port head & manifolds
Replace head gasket?
New belts and hoses
Mount new WP pulley & fan
Heat shield above turbo
Water temp adapter bushing?
Plug gauge ports
Clean engine
Tap manifold for pyrometer
Adapters for oil temp/pres/light
Mounting brackets on engine
Flywheel/clutch assembled
Replace oil cooler lines
Clean up PCV lines
Powder-coat valve cover, intake, & air filter?

PREP for SYSTEMS
Obtain vac line for booster
Vac/pressure lines for engine controls
Plan Routing of battery cables, glow power + purchase wire, blocks, & terminals
Clutch verified/rebuilt
Flywheel balanced
Make fuel line adapters
1’ of 5/8� dia fuel line
AN adapter for 5/16 supply hose
3’ of 5/16� fuel line + clamps
obtain pipe for air filter adapt (size?)
Obtain exhaust components
Obtain battery & voltage cutoff
Mount idle adjust?
Mount gauges?

Day 1
REMOVE ENGINE
Disconnect battery
Disconnect wiring
Remove engine electrical components
Disconnect fuel lines
Cut vac line to booster
Disconnect throttle linkage
Disconnect PS lines
Disconnect heater lines
Disconnect exhaust
Disconnect clutch hydraulics
Disconnect trans linkage
remove & Inspect intermediate prop shaft
Remove radiator, winch, grille
Remove engine & trans mounting bolts
Lift engine out
Remove header pipe
Degrease chassis and engine bay

FIT NEW ENGINE
Replace rubber engine mounts
Transfer oil cooler to new engine
Mount transmission to new engine
Set engine in place
Bolt engine & trans to mounts

Day 2
Fabricate exhaust adapters
Connect heater lines
adapt air filter
Connect vac pump inlet to air filt.
Connect fuel lines
connect vac booster to check valve
connect throttle linkage
connect idle adjuster
Mount & wire glow relay
Mount, wire & plumb overpressure solenoid
Mount, wire & plumb vac shutdown solenoid
Connect alternator
Connect PS hoses
Replace trans linkage bushings
Connect trans linkage
Refit prop shaft
Reconnect clutch hydraulics
Bleed clutch hydraulics
Replace fuel pump and filter w. adapters
Mount radiator
Mount oil cooler
Fill fluids
Test fire
Check system for leaks
drain fuel
Fill fuel tank
Refit grille & winch
Wire (& mount?) gauges
Mount, wire & plumb turbo defeat solenoid

 

[Ernest T Bass]

Very thorough: but there is one thing that you might like to consider with such an impressive project. A good supply of cold beer at the end of the day – just a thought. [}]

Good Luck!

 

[Roly]

Hi Dave
I can't add anything to your list seems pretty good.
Have you thought about a turbo service? New bearings and seals.

Good luck with it. When is D-day?

 

[Iver460]

Roly - 3/17/2005 7:14 AM
Good luck with it. When is D-day?

D-day, that would be DIESEL-day in this case, wouldn't it?[]

 

[Hipine]

From that picture, it looks like the frosty mornings turn the whole G into a giant beer cooler. Oh wait, you folks perfer it warm...[8D]

-Dave G.

 

[Hipine]

Turbo Service

I did indeed consider it. Especially since mine shows some signs of leaking a bit of oil - no drips, just a little surface dampness.

I wonder if it's better to get the dealer parts, or go to a Garret source. I have a buddy who works in the foundry at Garret Air Research in California....Sounds like a fun place, or maybe it's just this guy....I digress.

Yep. I think you're right. Maybe a good time to consider a turbo service.

Might even be the right thing to take it to some kind of expert who could verify balance, etc. Might be more to it than a water pump, is all I'm thinking.

The motor has 130k miles and ran well before we pulled it from the '79 300SD it was in.

Comments?

-Dave G.

 

[Dai]

Our turbo has 330,000 miles on it and is going strong. Never touched. Yours has broken in by now. They are easy to R+R if there is a future issue.
Also consider having the exhaust manifold ceramic coated.
I like Conti belts or Gates Green stripes.
The valve cover and intake manifold are alloy and could be annodized.
Replace all of the little injection return line hoses that loop from injector to injector.
Modify the alternator for a tach trigger.
-Dai

 

[Hipine]

Thanks Dai

Good thoughts on the ceramic coating for the exhaust manifold. My idea with PC on the intake and valve cover was to create a nice smooth surface that's easier to wipe clean than the porous aluminum.

replacing return lines is a good one I hadn't thought of. I'm not sure about the alternator. I haven't looked into whether or not the one currently on the M110 and the one from the car are similar enough that I can keep one for a spare. If they are I'll do that and maybe get the alternator modified for the tach tap.

But there are a lot of different ways to go for a diesel tach so I'll probably wait and cross that bridge when I come to it. Heck, I might even see what I could do about beefing up the stock diagnostic cap circuitry. Who knows.

Thanks for the input. Let me know if you think of anything else.

-Dave G.

 

[stevegsmith]

RE: Thanks Dai

Hey Dave,
I'm excited about watching your project unfold. I'm assuming you're going to document everything for a great conversion article for the clubgwagen site. What did you decide to do about AC and/or onboard air? If I remember correctly, you have a trick set up with a York compressor. You probably know this but.....if you plan on using your York with the new engine, and if you use the super abundant AC bracket that was made especially for your York on the SD motor, it will end up in the way of the turbo goose neck. On mine, Norm had his mechanic use a modified York bracket and a Sanyo compressor, slightly elevated, in order to make room for the turbo. Then, the mechanic slapped on an ABS 45 degree elbow and a K&N filter for air intake. The goose neck had to be rotated (looking at the engine from the front) 90 degrees counter clockwise. I tossed the K&N and put the stock air cleaner back in. It works great and looks pretty darn good if I do say so myself. If you want me to take pics, let me know. I'm sending the air cleaner housing off to get powder coated next week and should have everything back together soon.
Good luck...can't wait to see the progress. The diesel is a little bit of a dog, but I suspect you're heading towards free/green fuel. You'll love it.
Here's a pic of my latest interest.....my boy Jack, 10 pounds, 6 ounces....born on 2/27.
Steve

 

[Hipine]

Congratulations!

Really introduces some perspective, doesn't it! Glad everybody's happy and healthy. Is this your first? Man there's nothing like it, that experence of being part of a new life coming into existance, and it only gets better and better every day. I wouldn't trade our 3 for anything.

I would like very much to see a picture of the pipe you have going to the stock air cleaner. That's something I'll have to do, but can't do until the motor's in, so the more info I can have about how that arrangement MIGHT go, the better job I can do of at least having the right materials on hand when it comes time to fab.

Right now I'm somewhat up against it with the clutch/flywheel situation and I might have to introduce some dead time into the project to get my 280 flywheel re-faced in the middle of the swap.

See my other post on flywheel.

I just can't get over your fantastic news about the new little tyke...love 'em till it hurts man.

[]

All the best,

-Dave

 

[Hipine]

Oh yeah, about AC

Right now I'm doing nothing. I might just bag it and go Power Tank, but I'm not sure. I don't have any need for AC at all, so my only motivation to look into that would be for a compressor, and there are other options for that. So it's not high priority for me.

-Dave

 

[Dai]

Congratulations, Steve the dad

Great photo there Mr. Smith. 10lbs 6 oz big owee. I trust everyone is OK but sleep deprived? All the best to you and the family.

-Dai

 

[stevegsmith]

RE: Congratulations, Steve the dad

Thanks Dai and Dave,
Dai, I was hoping you'd catch this. I've been meaning to call. Yes, everyone is happy and healthy. Cleo is healing well and getting around. It has been an incredible ride so far.
Oh yeah, I also just got a 1964 190Dc with 70,000 original miles! Most people have reacted with, "what the hell are you thinking?!". It's going to be my new veggie-burning flatlander real estate stylie ride of course. As of April 8th (when the jetta wagon goes back) we're going to be a 100% biofuel family! I seem to be the only one in the house this excited. Ohwell.
Dave, I'll take some detail pics and send you a part number for the hose.
Dai, good luck with the vino. Sorry the season started so soon. I'd love to go to Death Valley as well.
Steve

 

[Ernest T Bass]

Just a thought: dont know if it would be wise to re-new the rear crankshaft oil seal and even the front seal as you will have the thing open and on a bench so to speak. I dont know if you can get the tighter fitting ones that are available for M103s which fit into the grove of an old crank - thats for a gas engine I know - I could be way off for you beast.

 

[Hipine]

Ernest T Bass - 3/18/2005 3:11 PM
....it would be wise to re-new the rear crankshaft oil seal and even the front seal as you will have the thing open and on a bench so to speak.....

Yeah, I'm going to be pulling the oil pan, so I'll need to renew at least the bottom half of the rear crank seal. I was hoping to get away without pulling the crank, and without pulling everything off the front of the crank to do the front oil seal. I don't know. I'll have a look as I'm pulling the oil pan and sort of play that one by ear. Good idea though.

I'm trying to avoid the dreaded "shipfitter's disease", but it's tough given my nature. []

-Dave G.

 

[Dai]

Main seals

I would do the front main seal while it is out and easily accessable. It is great engineering, there is a very well designed main seal and a ring that the seal rides on that is replaced with the seal. That way the seal doesn't ride on and groove the crankshaft. Made for future service! The rear seals (if you can call them that) are the "rope type" in two pieces. When I had my oilpan off I didn't disturb them and used hylomar where they join. No problems because the seal is protected by a large disk forged into the crankshaft to keep oil away from it. The engine manual has some specifics when installing new seals for overlap position as I recall. The front seals go south eventually and blow oil all over everything when they do. It takes 150,000 or more miles before they do that. I've never had a rear main leakage problem in a MB diesel motor. The radiator needs to come out to service the front main in the vehicle. Unless you have an overhead lift and are a mechanic named Ron.

-Dai

 

[Dai]

At the risk of being in command of the obvious, have you thought about installing a block heater? It goes in place of a threaded plug below the intake/exhaust manifold. They are pretty inexpensive and available at Performance and other sources. In your climate and altitude they are a must and you probably have this but I thought should bring it up because it requires the removal of the manifolds if installed in the truck. They are also great for alternative fuel use.

-Dai

 

[Hipine]

Block heater and Turbo Rebuild.

There's already a heater in the block, and I made sure to get the socket and cord with it. But you bring up a good point. I should test it in case it's bad, since now would be the time to replace it.

Do you know anything about what their resistance value is supposed to be? If there's a wattage rating printed on the brass I guess I can do the math.

"Old Hamfist" raised his ugly head yesterday and buggered one of the sealing rings in the turbo rebuild so I'm ordering a replacement today. May be able to obtain locally, but I figure I should do pennance by calling Turbo City and admitting my stupidity.

And as far as that couple hours to rebuild the turbo? Well, let me elaborate....It's about 30 minutes to disassemble and reassemble the parts, and about 90 minutes worth of scraping out carbon gunk and old gasketing. The worst was the gasket between the aluminum turbine housing and seal plate on the intake side. It wasn't responding to the gasket dissolver or anything. Finally I developed a little technique of holding a razor blade perpendicular to the surface and rubbing the edge back and forth in a motion parallel to the surface. That would scrape away the gasket as a powdery substance without damaging the aluminum below. Final touches were accomplished with an India stone lubed with Marvel Mystery Oil.

After I make nice with the turbo gods I should be ready for re-assembly.

-Dave G.

 

[Dai]

I don't know the resistance values but I have two in a box at home. One set has the instructions and they might have some data. I'll look for the wattage on the brass as well. They are robust and I bet yours is fine. If not I have both styles of electrical connection if you need an element in a hurry. The late style is destined to go in my motor.
I'm not surprised you had difficulty scraping away the sealant on the turbo. They get a little warm and can glow translucent red in the dark following hard usage.

-Dai

 

[4x4rancher]

You may want to re-pulley your alternator to take two narrow belts as aposed to the single fat one on the 300GD.

Any more of this warm beer stuff and you,ll get an empty box, we only started warming it when the French started coming over drinking it[]