[nobby]

That works!

 

[roncallo]

I used your idea, with a tweek (instead of angle iron, I used 2x4s on edge) to use stuff I had lying around. I also just looped one of the chains around the crankshaft pulley View attachment 2667727 View attachment 2667729

 

[roncallo]

Looks good. My only concern would be the stability of the 2x4s. You should be able to stabilize them by putting the normal side stands right up against them. The crank pulley is about a 5" deep sheet metal pulley. Its heavy sheet metal so it should work but be carful with it and check it after your done.

 

[Martin_fromGermany]

I'm still contemplating subframe removal. I'll have to sleep on it awhile. I'm 71.

On your pic you're looking much younger

First of all: If you have a leaking oil pan, it’s the perfect moment to fix that! If you don’t do it now, you’ll be sorry. Oil may be cheap, but the mess on the floor will make you mad over the time.
But: Maybe the leak is somewhere else and it look only like a leaking oil pan? Check your oil filter and the neighborhood…

Instruction below works for the later models with the fasting bolt for the engine mounts installed from the bottom. Earlier models have different fixing of the engine mounts and a lot more trouble to lower the subframe without killing brake- and electrical lines…
Good news: You don’t need to turn too much screws in the engine bay, especially the engine damper and related stuff can stay in place!
When doing the subframe bushing job, change the engine mounts as well. It cost you only 2 minutes more per side and they are always worn out.

• To be on the safe side, unhook the throttle linkage at the firewall and loosen the fan shroud, as the motor will move a little further on
• Jack up the chassis at the inner stringer at the height of the gearbox
• Front wheels off
• Loosen the stabilizer from / to the control arms
• Unclip the lines for the ABS- and brake pad wear sensors from the brackets and give in some of the cable from above

From now on, proceed side by side, starting on the right (this is an easier start to get out to the bolt of the engine mount):
• Loosen the bolt of the engine mount from below with an approx. 30cm (!) long Allen key and remove it
• Now lift the lower control arm slightly with a floor jack until the lower shock absorber fastening can be loosened.
• Lower the floor jack carefully, the upper control arm has a safety stop that prevents the spring from relaxing completely.
• Floor jack 1 under the oil pan, to support and move the engine, put a piece of wood in between!
• Floor jack 2 under the front axle (on the side where you’re working). Remove the two screws of the subframe bushings on the current side from below.
• Now lower the sub frame on the current side and if necessary rise the engine a little (or hold / lower), just as required.
• The way to the engine mount is now free and you can easily loosen the two upper 8 mm Allen screws of the fastening
• The subframe bushings can also be easily removed / exchanged and is then ready in no time.
Other side: Same procedure, but the hole of the engine mounting bolt can be partly blocked by the lower control arm so you may need to turn the excentric bolts a little bit. Don’t forget to mark the original position.

Cheers Martin

 

[Its Her Car]

Crankshaft snout isn't a lift point, nor is the pulley. Most threaded block holes are fine.
That's too much lateral weight on the crankshaft snout with it only being supported on one side. Same for the pulley, no reason to risk bending it.
Rant off.
It's your car, do with it as you will, hope it worked out with no issues.

 

[1cheesegrater]

Y'know that Bugs Bunny cartoon where he winds up to smack a block buster bomb with a mallet and stops just before he hits it? He asks, "What am I doing?" I just said the same thing to myself.

 

[1cheesegrater]

On your pic you're looking much younger

First of all: If you have a leaking oil pan, it’s the perfect moment to fix that! If you don’t do it now, you’ll be sorry. Oil may be cheap, but the mess on the floor will make you mad over the time.
But: Maybe the leak is somewhere else and it look only like a leaking oil pan? Check your oil filter and the neighborhood…

Instruction below works for the later models with the fasting bolt for the engine mounts installed from the bottom. Earlier models have different fixing of the engine mounts and a lot more trouble to lower the subframe without killing brake- and electrical lines…
Good news: You don’t need to turn too much screws in the engine bay, especially the engine damper and related stuff can stay in place!
When doing the subframe bushing job, change the engine mounts as well. It cost you only 2 minutes more per side and they are always worn out.

• To be on the safe side, unhook the throttle linkage at the firewall and loosen the fan shroud, as the motor will move a little further on
• Jack up the chassis at the inner stringer at the height of the gearbox
• Front wheels off
• Loosen the stabilizer from / to the control arms
• Unclip the lines for the ABS- and brake pad wear sensors from the brackets and give in some of the cable from above

From now on, proceed side by side, starting on the right (this is an easier start to get out to the bolt of the engine mount):
• Loosen the bolt of the engine mount from below with an approx. 30cm (!) long Allen key and remove it
• Now lift the lower control arm slightly with a floor jack until the lower shock absorber fastening can be loosened.
• Lower the floor jack carefully, the upper control arm has a safety stop that prevents the spring from relaxing completely.
• Floor jack 1 under the oil pan, to support and move the engine, put a piece of wood in between!
• Floor jack 2 under the front axle (on the side where you’re working). Remove the two screws of the subframe bushings on the current side from below.
• Now lower the sub frame on the current side and if necessary rise the engine a little (or hold / lower), just as required.
• The way to the engine mount is now free and you can easily loosen the two upper 8 mm Allen screws of the fastening
• The subframe bushings can also be easily removed / exchanged and is then ready in no time.
Other side: Same procedure, but the hole of the engine mounting bolt can be partly blocked by the lower control arm so you may need to turn the excentric bolts a little bit. Don’t forget to mark the original position.

Cheers Martin

View attachment 2667739

View attachment 2667740

View attachment 2667741

Thanks for the pics and tips. I was 68 when that pic was taken.

 

[1cheesegrater]

Crankshaft snout isn't a lift point, nor is the pulley. Most threaded block holes are fine.
That's too much lateral weight on the crankshaft snout with it only being supported on one side. Same for the pulley, no reason to risk bending it.
Rant off.
It's your car, do with it as you will, hope it worked out with no issues.

Thanks for the reply. I put the jack back under the engine

 

[1cheesegrater]

Pretty sure I'll jettison the AC compressor and I'm definitely going to chuck the fan on the water pump an put an electric one on her. AC doesn't work and the fan would make a fine boat anchor, so I can't see lugging all that weight around.

 

[cwmoser]

I like your Janis Joplin avatar.
She was popular back when I was in college.
"Oh Lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz"

 

[roncallo]

Y'know that Bugs Bunny cartoon where he winds up to smack a block buster bomb with a mallet and stops just before he hits it? He asks, "What am I doing?" I just said the same thing to myself.

I can relate.

 

[1cheesegrater]

I like your Janis Joplin avatar.
She was popular back when I was in college.
"Oh Lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz"

Her nickname was Pearl.

 

[Its Her Car]

Thanks for the reply. I put the jack back under the engine

Before I'd built a few engines, I'm confident I'd had done it the same way as you.
I'm tagging along as I have some of this headed my way soon on two.

 

[DeanMk]

I'm trying to offset the outrageous money I spent on the exhaust manifold;

Can you tie a come-along to the ceiling and lift the engine that way?
I did my dad's Rabbit Diesel pickup like that...I tied the engine/transaxle to a come-along and let the engine down onto a wheeled cart, then lifted the front of the truck with a cherry picker and wheeled the drivetrain out that way.
...anyway....if you have a come-along, that's another way around it.

 

[1cheesegrater]

Moved this post to FRONT SUBFRAME BUSHINGS thread.