On your pic you're looking much younger
First of all: If you have a leaking oil pan, it’s the perfect moment to fix that! If you don’t do it now, you’ll be sorry. Oil may be cheap, but the mess on the floor will make you mad over the time.
But: Maybe the leak is somewhere else and it look only like a leaking oil pan? Check your oil filter and the neighborhood…
Instruction below works for the later models with the fasting bolt for the engine mounts installed from the bottom
. Earlier models have different fixing of the engine mounts and a lot more trouble to lower the subframe without killing brake- and electrical lines…
Good news: You don’t need to turn too much screws in the engine bay, especially the engine damper and related stuff can stay in place!
When doing the subframe bushing job, change the engine mounts as well. It cost you only 2 minutes more per side and they are always worn out.
• To be on the safe side, unhook the throttle linkage at the firewall and loosen the fan shroud, as the motor will move a little further on
• Jack up the chassis at the inner stringer at the height of the gearbox
• Front wheels off
• Loosen the stabilizer from / to the control arms
• Unclip the lines for the ABS- and brake pad wear sensors from the brackets and give in some of the cable from above
From now on, proceed side by side, starting on the right (this is an easier start to get out to the bolt of the engine mount):
• Loosen the bolt of the engine mount from below with an approx. 30cm (!) long Allen key and remove it
• Now lift the lower control arm slightly with a floor jack until the lower shock absorber fastening can be loosened.
• Lower the floor jack carefully, the upper control arm has a safety stop that prevents the spring from relaxing completely.
• Floor jack 1 under the oil pan, to support and move the engine, put a piece of wood in between!
• Floor jack 2 under the front axle (on the side where you’re working). Remove the two screws of the subframe bushings on the current side from below.
• Now lower the sub frame on the current side and if necessary rise the engine a little (or hold / lower), just as required.
• The way to the engine mount is now free and you can easily loosen the two upper 8 mm Allen screws of the fastening
• The subframe bushings can also be easily removed / exchanged and is then ready in no time.
Other side: Same procedure, but the hole of the engine mounting bolt can be partly blocked by the lower control arm so you may need to turn the excentric bolts a little bit. Don’t forget to mark the original position.
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