[1cheesegrater]

My question is: Would there be any problem supporting the engine with a bar across padded fenders and a ratchet strap sling under the front of the crankshaft?

 

[1cheesegrater]

Only if you like bar sized indents in your fenders. The good thing is that both left and right fenders would most likley match. ----- It depends on why you want to support the engine such as changing suframe or motor mounts? You can have success by using a rolling hydraulic floor jack under the car lifting the engine by the pan (use a 2x4 block between the jack plate and the pan to avoid pan damage. Also-- Using a "Cherry Picker" engine lift works pulling up by the engine support loop at the front thermostat housing.

I'm trying to offset the outrageous money I spent on the exhaust manifold;

 

[1cheesegrater]

they have supports for this purpose that sit on the inside lip of the fenders.

I'm trying to offset the outrageous money I spent on the exhaust manifold;

 

[1cheesegrater]

I was thinking about setting sandbags on folded blankets on the fenders, then putting 2x4s on the bags, then a 4x4 across the fenders.

 

[1cheesegrater]

Use the inside lip. I used 2 pieces of angle iron on rubber sheets to bridge the area where there was no inside lip. Also If you are just supporting the engine to change the motor mounts or to drop the subframe where the transmission mounting will still be in place, then support the engine at the furthest point forward. That will put the least load on the lifting device.

I really like that setup. Do you thing a heavy duty ratchet strap would hold the engine?

 

[1cheesegrater]

Could you explain your further plans, for what reason do you want to support the engine this way?
If -for example- you plan to change engine mounts and/or subframe bushings, it's not nescessary to do it this way. For this repair it's perfect to work with two floor jacks. One for the subframe and one to control the position of the engine (by supporting it under the oil pan).

Cheers Martin

I do want to replace the items you mentioned and I did use yours and others idea of just supporting the engine and lowering the subframe around the under oil pan support. I wanted to hang the engine because I was hoping to actually take the subframe out, clean the grime and replace the oil pan gasket, but I guess I will live with the oil leak. Oil's cheap.

 

[1cheesegrater]

Got the right side subframe bushings and engine mount out. Am now waiting for delivery of the new ones. I want to thank all who responded to my OP and helped me see an easier way to accomplish what I wanted to do. We have had Pearl for about six years and I have enjoyed making her more road worthy and comfortable, but never thought I could do some of what I have to her and probably couldn't have without this forum. i.e. valve stem seals and the current project. With your help and encouragement on doing things myself, instead of paying to have it done I hope I have saved enough money to get her a decent paint job someday.

 

[1cheesegrater]

Here is the link to the Harbor Fright item 1000 lb. Capacity Engine Support Bar There is one in Greenwood, Indiana.

Thanks, I have decided to use the oil pan support technique for now.

 

[1cheesegrater]

If that's your plan the engine brace is a no brainer. I held my engine in place for over a month while I had the subframe out.

I'm still contemplating subframe removal. I'll have to sleep on it awhile. I'm 71.

 

[1cheesegrater]

Use the inside lip. I used 2 pieces of angle iron on rubber sheets to bridge the area where there was no inside lip. Also If you are just supporting the engine to change the motor mounts or to drop the subframe where the transmission mounting will still be in place, then support the engine at the furthest point forward. That will put the least load on the lifting device.

I used your idea, with a tweek (instead of angle iron, I used 2x4s on edge) to use stuff I had lying around. I also just looped one of the chains around the crankshaft pulley

 

[1cheesegrater]

Y'know that Bugs Bunny cartoon where he winds up to smack a block buster bomb with a mallet and stops just before he hits it? He asks, "What am I doing?" I just said the same thing to myself.

 

[1cheesegrater]

On your pic you're looking much younger

First of all: If you have a leaking oil pan, it’s the perfect moment to fix that! If you don’t do it now, you’ll be sorry. Oil may be cheap, but the mess on the floor will make you mad over the time.
But: Maybe the leak is somewhere else and it look only like a leaking oil pan? Check your oil filter and the neighborhood…

Instruction below works for the later models with the fasting bolt for the engine mounts installed from the bottom. Earlier models have different fixing of the engine mounts and a lot more trouble to lower the subframe without killing brake- and electrical lines…
Good news: You don’t need to turn too much screws in the engine bay, especially the engine damper and related stuff can stay in place!
When doing the subframe bushing job, change the engine mounts as well. It cost you only 2 minutes more per side and they are always worn out.

• To be on the safe side, unhook the throttle linkage at the firewall and loosen the fan shroud, as the motor will move a little further on
• Jack up the chassis at the inner stringer at the height of the gearbox
• Front wheels off
• Loosen the stabilizer from / to the control arms
• Unclip the lines for the ABS- and brake pad wear sensors from the brackets and give in some of the cable from above

From now on, proceed side by side, starting on the right (this is an easier start to get out to the bolt of the engine mount):
• Loosen the bolt of the engine mount from below with an approx. 30cm (!) long Allen key and remove it
• Now lift the lower control arm slightly with a floor jack until the lower shock absorber fastening can be loosened.
• Lower the floor jack carefully, the upper control arm has a safety stop that prevents the spring from relaxing completely.
• Floor jack 1 under the oil pan, to support and move the engine, put a piece of wood in between!
• Floor jack 2 under the front axle (on the side where you’re working). Remove the two screws of the subframe bushings on the current side from below.
• Now lower the sub frame on the current side and if necessary rise the engine a little (or hold / lower), just as required.
• The way to the engine mount is now free and you can easily loosen the two upper 8 mm Allen screws of the fastening
• The subframe bushings can also be easily removed / exchanged and is then ready in no time.
Other side: Same procedure, but the hole of the engine mounting bolt can be partly blocked by the lower control arm so you may need to turn the excentric bolts a little bit. Don’t forget to mark the original position.

Cheers Martin

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Thanks for the pics and tips. I was 68 when that pic was taken.

 

[1cheesegrater]

Crankshaft snout isn't a lift point, nor is the pulley. Most threaded block holes are fine.
That's too much lateral weight on the crankshaft snout with it only being supported on one side. Same for the pulley, no reason to risk bending it.
Rant off.
It's your car, do with it as you will, hope it worked out with no issues.

Thanks for the reply. I put the jack back under the engine

 

[1cheesegrater]

Pretty sure I'll jettison the AC compressor and I'm definitely going to chuck the fan on the water pump an put an electric one on her. AC doesn't work and the fan would make a fine boat anchor, so I can't see lugging all that weight around.

 

[1cheesegrater]

I like your Janis Joplin avatar.
She was popular back when I was in college.
"Oh Lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz"

Her nickname was Pearl.

 

[1cheesegrater]

Moved this post to FRONT SUBFRAME BUSHINGS thread.