My question is: Would there be any problem supporting the engine with a bar across padded fenders and a ratchet strap sling under the front of the crankshaft?
Engine support
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Only if you like bar sized indents in your fenders. The good thing is that both left and right fenders would most likley match. ----- It depends on why you want to support the engine such as changing suframe or motor mounts? You can have success by using a rolling hydraulic floor jack under the car lifting the engine by the pan (use a 2x4 block between the jack plate and the pan to avoid pan damage. Also-- Using a "Cherry Picker" engine lift works pulling up by the engine support loop at the front thermostat housing.
83 280 SL- 5 speed-The PIG
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they have supports for this purpose that sit on the inside lip of the fenders.
83 280 SL- 5 speed-The PIG
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My point being that the inside lip is quite robust.
I'm trying to offset the outrageous money I spent on the exhaust manifold;
I'm trying to offset the outrageous money I spent on the exhaust manifold;
I was thinking about setting sandbags on folded blankets on the fenders, then putting 2x4s on the bags, then a 4x4 across the fenders.
'those fenders are not designed to support weight. It might work or it might not. Yes- - There is a support to find the inner fender, but you will not find one to use and it is not worth the work to make them. Use the jack under the pan or the engine lift
Use the inside lip. I used 2 pieces of angle iron on rubber sheets to bridge the area where there was no inside lip. Also If you are just supporting the engine to change the motor mounts or to drop the subframe where the transmission mounting will still be in place, then support the engine at the furthest point forward. That will put the least load on the lifting device.
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I really like that setup. Do you thing a heavy duty ratchet strap would hold the engine?
Heavy duty is a relative term. If its rated for 1000Lb and in good condition yes. But will you have room to actuate the ratchet?. You might need more height. The setup I've shown uses hooks that will pull right up in between the blue beams. The engine I am lifting in that picture is a 650# M120 V12 attached to a 200# 722.6 transmission. Its a good safe solution at $80 from Harbor Freight. If you only need to lift the engine to change a motor mount I would recommend a floor jack with a block of wood under the oil pan.
Could you explain your further plans, for what reason do you want to support the engine this way?
If -for example- you plan to change engine mounts and/or subframe bushings, it's not nescessary to do it this way. For this repair it's perfect to work with two floor jacks. One for the subframe and one to control the position of the engine (by supporting it under the oil pan).
Cheers Martin
I do want to replace the items you mentioned and I did use yours and others idea of just supporting the engine and lowering the subframe around the under oil pan support. I wanted to hang the engine because I was hoping to actually take the subframe out, clean the grime and replace the oil pan gasket, but I guess I will live with the oil leak. Oil's cheap.
1986 560SL: '84 500SL: '84 280SL 5 speed: other 107s ALL SOLD
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Here is the link to the Harbor Fright item 1000 lb. Capacity Engine Support Bar There is one in Greenwood, Indiana.
Got the right side subframe bushings and engine mount out. Am now waiting for delivery of the new ones. I want to thank all who responded to my OP and helped me see an easier way to accomplish what I wanted to do. We have had Pearl for about six years and I have enjoyed making her more road worthy and comfortable, but never thought I could do some of what I have to her and probably couldn't have without this forum. i.e. valve stem seals and the current project. With your help and encouragement on doing things myself, instead of paying to have it done I hope I have saved enough money to get her a decent paint job someday.
Thanks, I have decided to use the oil pan support technique for now.
If that's your plan the engine brace is a no brainer. I held my engine in place for over a month while I had the subframe out.
I'm still contemplating subframe removal. I'll have to sleep on it awhile. I'm 71.
I just did it this year at 63. Consider hiring a young guy for a day.
I used your idea, with a tweek (instead of angle iron, I used 2x4s on edge) to use stuff I had lying around. I also just looped one of the chains around the crankshaft pulley
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